Lijiang

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The sleeper overnight to Lijiang was comfortable and quiet, but it was a rattle rattle line and I didn't sleep very well. I am staying in Shuhe which is about two miles away from Lijiang. Lijiang has a famous old town which has become overcrowded over the years. Shuhe is also now quite popular, but not as busy as Lijiang. I am staying in a traditional house with wooden furniture and the Chinese breakfast of rice noodles is very good. It hasn't been warm enough for me to try the small swimming pool. Shuhe doesn't have any major sites but it has plenty of shops and friendly small restaurants. Along the streams there are more sophisticated restaurants that have crooners in the evening. I climbed up to the prayer flags for a view down onto the grey roofs of Shuhe.

Lijiang is not just crowded shopping streets. I entered the town near lion hill which was pleasantly quiet. At the top of the hill there is a small complex of building including Wangu tower. This was rebuilt in 1997, but in the style of the original with tall pillars supporting each floor. Below the tower are old cedar trees. The Mu family mansion has a long history in Lijiang, but the buildings are new, a reconstruction of the old buildings that were destroyed in the early years of the twentieth century. It was possible to get some idea of what it might have looked like and there were interesting trees in the gardens. In the south part of Lijiang old town I also found quiet streets and the traditional three level ponds were in use; the top level is drinking water, the second level for washing food and the third level for washing clothes. The main square and the cobbled streets leading north out of the old town were very busy, but can see why they attract the tourists. There are attractive inns and cafes overlooking a stream with willows.

I contined north to the black dragon pool. In the summer the pool had dried up, but after the rain it was looking attractive. There is a famous view looking towards the five arch bridge, elephant hill and jade dragon snow mountain. The mountain was not visible, but it was still an attractive view. I nearly laughed out loud when I saw the Chinese tourists grasping their paid for photographs. The photographer photo shops in the background of a sunny day with a view of the mountain. The only disappointment was that I was not allowed to climb elephant hill, there is a restriction to a minimum group of four people. I wondered if I would be allowed up if I signed a disclaimer, but my very limited Chinese won't stretch to that.

Supper was street food from the excellent stalls in the old town. I tried some vivid green and purple things which turned out to be some kind of dough with sugar in the centre.

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