Kunming and the magic of the Stone Forest

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Geo: 25.0389, 102.708

Lotus was waiting for us at the railway station and helped us make the quick getaway from the station to Mr Driver and breakfast. The first sightseeing stop on the agenda was the Stone Forest - a two hour drive from Kunming. I am not sure what happened on the way because the gentle rocking of the vehicle put me to sleep before we had travelled too many kilometres. But Mac assures me it was more of the same......high rise accommodation, pockets of farmland, cars and buses, a pall of smog - just a much, much greener countryside and it was connected by an eight lane dual carriageway.....that continued all the way to Vietnam.

The limestone karst forest simply takes your breath away. Stretching over 1 500 square kilometres these silent grey sentinels come in all shapes and sizes and truly look like a forest from a distance. But on closer inspection, they twist and turn through kilometre after kilometre in individual shapes and formations. From the tiny "teeth" outcrops to the soaring balancing tors, these 270 million year old creations from under the sea challenge your imagination. It was magical!

It was only 8.30 in the morning and we were lined up with hundreds of other sightseers. The sheer scale of the operation of these tourist juggernauts is almost a tourist attraction in itself! This is where the benefit of local knowledge comes in handy - you can be sharing a spot with thousands of people, but somehow you are the "only one".

Lotus took us on a circuitous route that started from the highest point in the park at the Lion Pavillion. It was another one of those jaw dropping experiences and for two and a half hours we gasped and gawped as we squeezed through towering canyons, gazed into the darkness of bottomless crevices, scaled steps, crossed bridges and discovered mother and son waiting, elephants and camels frozen in time, the forlorn star crossed lover Ashima, eagles, lizards and camels frozen in mid stride, a sea of umbrellas, cars, shoes and dragons...and even an Australian blue tongue....all cast in stone. There were some bottle necks with loads of people but for the most part we were in awe in solitude away from the maddening crowd.

A new twist on toilet stories in China because today we discovered "the best" toilets ever! The ladies toilet would have consisted of 100 cubicles with twenty Western pedestals. Each cubicle was immaculately clean and instead of the ubiquitous open bin for used loo paper, there was a shiny flap that gave access to a chute for the waste. The locks worked to hold the door closed (a minor miracle) and each loo was equipped with its very own TV! Yes, a tiny TV monitor attached to the wooden panelling of the wall. There was soap in the dispensers to wash your hands and the dryers were those super efficient, heat blasting "blades". In the centre of the entrance was an expansive 360 degree bench and mirror with specialised lighting that was a makeup touch up station. It was a wonder that we got to see the karst forest because I didn't want to leave the loos!

Food is never too far away and lunch was in a newly constructed village. As part of UNESCO's accreditation process many of the villagers who previously resided in the park confines had to be relocated. No worries of course, the government commissions the building of new accommodation for 10 000 and the people are "moved".

Our best fact of the day was an off hand comment on the size of China's military might. We zoomed by an impressive set of barracks that was heavily guarded by armed militia. This was an armed border patron installation. Lotus indicated that the UN had advised China that the army of 2 million needed to be reduced. No worries, the Government reduced the Army to a UN acceptable 1.2 million and created an 800 000 strong armed border patrol. Hmmmm, an armed border patrol by any other name is still an .....????...... Oh well.

An afternoon checkin at the New Era Hotel right in the centre of town, a quick shower and we were off to see the Flower and Bird Market of the Old Town. Lots of stories of the history of the town, its growth, the wars and the heroes interspersed with markets and stalls. But my major concern had nothing to do with the Old Town, I needed to be in the Mall at a chemist. The bites were driving me crazy. We purchased some vile kerosene smelling cream and I applied it straight away for immediate relief! Still can't believe that Mac escaped.

As we strolled through the new mall we noticed an avenue of white coats. The locals offering massages. Mac made a beeline for the ATM with Lotus - I made a beeline for the padded kitchen chair and found a new heaven as the masseuse found every knot and gnarl from the bone rattling adventure of the "soft" sleeper. Cost me 30 yuan and I had a new best friend.

As the clock ticked towards 7 the threat more food was looming. This trip was beginning to be "torture" by gastronomical delight. In fact I started moaning at about 6.30 that I couldn't eat another thing. But Lotus assured us that these were the best rice noodles in the world! So onwards and of course upwards (more stairs..we never eat on the ground floor and there are never lifts). And true to her word, these were the best noodles ever! And despite being engorged from days and weeks of over eating, we slurped and noodle-sucked our way through an enormous steaming bowl of Gian Xin Yuan. The boiling broth arrived in an enormous bowl accompanied by 9 individual serves of the additions.....chicken, pork, quail eggs, ham, squid, assorted green vegetables, bamboo shoots and noodles are added to the steaming pot and are stirred to cook. Truly deliciously mouth watering. And a perfect meal for the over indulged!

Dinner was a leisurely affair perched on the first floor overlooking the evening scramble of the town square below. We enjoyed a great conversation with Lotus who as a divorced, self supporting mother of a 19 year old son is a radical, perceptive, intelligent free thinker. Lotus is concerned about the future of her country, questions the drive and direction of its young people and desperately wants improvements for the working class people.

Another day done and dusted and we were eager to head back to the New Era and sleep...just two to a room...on a hard bed......without the clickety clack as a background symphony.

Pedometer reading: 22 648 (phew, that's a big one)
Temperature: 30 C

@MissMJA via @MrsAngell thanks for the tip. Boiling water we can find by the gallon ....but just a little trickier to find a metal spoon in China. Vile smelling cream is working a treat. I wonder what it has in it?

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