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KUQA to SALT CAMP. WEDNESDAY 2.7.14
Distance: 148 Kms SubT. 4,438. Kms Bal 7976 Kms
Road Condition: GOOD , GREAT TAIL WIND
Weather: hot by mid morning. 45C at camp
Time in Saddle: 5.5 hrs Av Speed: av. 28 kph.
Elevation: 200 m : Decent 50 M
Calories burned : 5000
Left hotel at 7am. Had an excellent tail wind all day which made riding easier. At 11 am only had 12 Kms to go, however, TL was having a hard time finding a suitably discreet camping ground, to hide from police hassle. So we all sat at large garage for 2hrs drinking soft drinks waiting.
Apparently the police are more demanding this trip than previously due to the restive nature of Xinjiang province. This is one of China's largest provinces. It would like to join with Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Krygyzistan to create a new Turkic Independent State.
On route we passed a locals' Turkic cemetery, hidden amongst the sand dunes. Very interesting to see from the highway. Looked like family cemeteries, not like cemeteries in Australia.
Finally news came through that a site had been found
close by. A salt pan with hard sand hills. Made for a very hot site. We delayed leaving garage, but finally got to site at about 2.30, only 9 hrs to sunset due to western China time.
Set up tent, had 2 soups, then retreated 2 tent for a rest. That is when the diahroer arrived.
Unfortunately privacy at camp is rare, so to find a privacy is a hike. Unfortunately I didn't quite make it, meaning embarrassment and washing tomorrow. Reminded me of Poptun, Guatemala. Unsurprising really as I think I am about last of the riders to be afflicted.
Started on the Norafloxcin and drinking plenty of liquid.
Tomorrow is a short day 110 km. I'll see how I feel in the morning about cycling.
This trip is arduous in many different ways. One of the riders has decided to call it quits and go home to Seattle. The constant early morning rush, up at 5 am Beijing time, 3 am western China time, to get going and beat the heat, irregular quality food, esp., breakfast, regular flat tyres, illness and big daily distances took its toll on him he was saying to
me. I can sympathise with his sentiments. I felt as he did a few days ago. But know from past travels these thoughts occur. If you can get through that stage generally the trip vastly improves. Here is hoping. I have always wanted to see Samarkand and Bukhara and this is likely my only chance. Another month minimum.
AKSU. THURSDAY 3.7.14
Distance: 103 Kms SubT. 4,541 Kms Bal 7873 Kms
Road Condition: generally GOOD 90% highway 50%
Weather: mild temp. BRUTAL HEAD AND CROSS WINDS (70 kph+)
Time in Saddle: 5 hrs Av Speed: av. 20 kph.
Elevation: 475 m : Decent 425 M
Calories burned : 5000+
34 cycling days. DAILY AVERAGE 133.55 Kms.
Left camp at 7 am. V. Average night 3 hrs sleep. Light drizzle and strong winds most of the night, maintaining our desert experience! Also the Muslim employees were chatting into the wee hours. They can't eat before 10.30 due to Ramadan, so chat seemingly loudly, waiting for a meal.
Camp was very dusty. Needed to leave tent screens open for air, but kept fly closed, but still tent and contents shrouded in
dust. Should be delightful when I get to hotel as I need to do some immediate washing. Also need to check gear for scorpions as one of cyclists had a scorpion in his bag, discovered at hotel.
The route today had a brutal headwind and crosswind. At times I felt I would be blown off my bike. Riding was tough and the ease of yesterday's cycling was paid for today.
After lunch break the wind abated 70%.
The region seems to be getting poorer. Many of the farmers are now using donkey and cart for transporting produce. Some great faces. Most are of Turkic decent, that is they look Turkish, Iraqi, Middle Eastern. More solid in physique, more serious expression.
On route we needed a breather and stopped at a stand selling fresh bagels from its earthen oven and a cold drink. The best bread tasted in China, so good in fact I went back for a second. Just as well as the bread at lunch was tougher than a leather shoe sole.
The scenery was more of the same desert hills and washed out valleys.
Ron departed today having achieved his lung clearance
for flight.
Tomorrow and Saturday we have consecutive cycling days of 175 Kms per day.
AKSU to Desert Camp Friday 4.7.14
Distance: 172 Kms SubT. 4,713 Kms Bal 7,701 Kms
Road Condition: generally GOOD 90% highway 50%
Weather: mild temp. HEAD AND CROSS WINDS predominated. V Hot in afternoon.
Time in Saddle: 7. 5 hrs Av Speed: av. 22.5 kph.
Elevation: 395 m : Decent 120 wM
Calories burned : 5000+
35 cycling days. DAILY AVERAGE 134.65 Kms.
Today was the longest ride of the tour. Many were concerned about the ability to do the distance, as was I. It turned out not so bad. Strong headwinds for the first 70 Kms which sapped strength then the winds abated and were more cross winds, with the occasional 80 kph blast, which shifted the bike.
When I reached the toll station with Jed we were done in, then a remarkable act of kindness, one of the off duty toll workers came over to us with a green melon. It was cold and juicy and was delicious and reinvigorating, we were most appreciative and grateful as there hadn't been
a drink stop all morning and the temperature was rising sharply. This set the tone for a good afternoon. Riding through the next village we came upon an earthen ware kitchen which had just turned out delicious warm bagels with very cold drinks. Most remarkable. We stopped and consumed 2, just as well as our lunch stop bread was as hard as eating a dinner plate.
Then we rode to camp. Another disaster of a site. The earth was road base rolled after the construction of the adjacent freeway. Most couldn't drive in tent pegs and needed to resort to rocks to hold down tent strings. It was already blowing strongly, then the wind velocity increased and we were hit by swirling dust. Even with tent flaps and fly flaps fully zippered my tent was full of sand dust. Made for a gritty night, with no water to wash! That evening everyone sat by their tents holding on to make sure it didn't blow away. When I got into it about 9.30, still like a summer afternoon in brightness and heat, it was like what I suspect it would be like lying in an organ bellow, the tent sides
kept blowing in and out all night until midnight when the wind abruptly stopped. Sleep was lost. It restarted from the opposite direction in the morning. A headwind to start the day. Not a good rest, 3 hrs sleep as we were up at 5 pm for another big day.
Dinner was again a gritty affair.
Desert Camp to Desert Camp Saturday 5.7.14
Distance: 172 Kms ( cancelled at 132kms) SubT. 4,846 Kms Bal 7,579 Kms
Road Condition: generally highway, slow up hill gring against a persistent headwind.
Weather: mild temp. Cool start then V Hot in afternoon.
Time in Saddle: 7 hrs Av Speed: av. 19 kph.
Elevation: 550 m : Decent little M
Calories burned : 5000+
36 cycling days. DAILY AVERAGE 134.45 Kms.
Today was a very sad day.
We left camp at 8 am after a largely sleepless and non rejuvenating sleep. Up in darkness to prepare for the day, pulling down tent, in an increasing in strength wind.
We set off in a harsh headwind, up a continuing incline. This zapped most
of us and the day was passing very slowly and with difficulty.
I was coping ok, although didn't think I would be at camp until about 6.30, a long ten hours in the saddle.
At about 3.15 I was stopped by the TDA crew as were others. We were told that there had been a serious accident ahead but had no other details. About 2 hrs later the TDA TL arrived and briefed all the riders. One of our riders had been hit by a motorcar, a few Kms ahead and had died at the scene. Apparently the car had a tyre blowout, the driver lost control, and collected our rider who was riding along on the shoulder. He was a Finnish man, pleasant with only little English. He was one of the best and most experienced riders on the tour. It is suspected that he died instantly. A pall now hangs over the group.
The balance of the ride and tomorrow's ride was cancelled and we were ferried by bus go the hotel 150 Kms away. The scenery was uninspiring.
I need to give this incident consideration, the fourth serious accident in 6 weeks, with
increasing severity. No one has been acting foolishly. I must admit to rising anxiety, as China's roads and vehicles are supposedly the best we in-counter. Vehicle maintenance is poor, evidenced by all the tyre rubbish on the shoulders and many car drivers drive excessively fast and without caution about what is about them.
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Barbara
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Hi Roger. .seems like it's been a tough time. The photos are great & I definitely see the turkic features starting to show thru. So sorry to hear the sad news of the finnish rider. I can understand re-evaluating the conditions of the ride, life is more important than losing it for a bike journey in the end. My best wishes to you all, safety in ur riding. Bub xx