At altitude

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It has always been a dream of mine to visit Tibet although I was almost put off when I visited Dharamsala, the current home of the Dalai Lama. I heard conflicting stories from Tibetans about the influence of the Chinese in Tibet; some good, some bad. Yet as I flew over the snowcovered mountains and into Lhasa airport I almost cried at the stark beauty of the country and the realisation that I was here.

After two weeks I still cannot resolve the conflicting impressions of the country. Chinese Han have had a huge influence here. The cities have areas similar to most modern Chinese cities. There are good shops and facilities. Many of the rural areas are also developing and many Tibetan villages have been rebuilt with more up to date housing for the Tibetans. There is a massive expenditure on infrastructure, new highways and the railway that is due to open in July. Yet there are a huge number of Tibetan beggars, particularly in Lhasa and around the important monasteries. The number of monks in monasteries is a fraction of that before the Cultural Revolution. Further away from Lhasa the rural villages seem to be poor, with few facilities, and the life for people here is hard. Mention of the Dalai Lama is in hushed whispers and trying to discuss the situation in Tibet is deterred. Tourism is being nurtured primarily in selected areas. Extra permits are necessary for many places and some regions are difficult to get to unless you go in a private land cruiser or with a tour. Once the railway opens I have also heard that the standard entry permit for Tibet will be discarded and tourism will expand.

However, I am still fascinated by Tibet. The landscapes are beautiful and the culture, religion, and people are fascinating.

I flew into Lhasa two weeks ago from Chengdu. I then spent a few days acclimatising to the altitude. I did not have too many symptoms, just a shortness of breath, and I managed to walk round the Tibetan area of Barkhor on my first afternoon after landing. My hotel (Kiray Hotel) is in the middle of the old Tibetan quarter and, although basic, was friendly and has a great atmosphere and warm, clean showers, even if they are across a courtyard and down an alley!

The Barkhor area of Lhasa is a thriving commercial centre. Stalls and shops sell Tibetan staples such as yak meat and butter, horse trappings, antiques and jewelery. Many people still wear traditional wool clothes. Along the streets are many pilgrims with prayer wheels and monks in red robes. There are also many Tibetan beggars that not only ask for money but hang on to your clothes in the process.

The two main monasteries within the city are the Potala Palace, set above the city on a small rise and the Jokhang, which was actually the main city residence for the Dalai Lama. I visited both on my first full day in Lhasa. The Potala, although the symbol for Tibetan Buddhism in the outside world, is now little more than a museum. It is being restored and parts are still closed to the public. Still I found it rewarding to be there and see the beautiful statues and mandalas inside for myself. The Jokhang is more of a working monastery and I was intrigued to hear the evening chanting and watch the afternoon debating. Both the Potala and Jokhang have streams of pilgrims walking the kora, or pilgrim route around the edge and prostrating themselves in front of the buildings and the religious figures inside. Despite years of supression, Tibetan Buddhism is still at the heart of the lives of the people in this harsh country.

On the edge of the city are two more large monasteries at Sera and Drepung. Drepung was at one time the largest monastery in Tibet but now sadly devoid of life and only a 700 of the once 7000 monks remain today. At Sera I spent a fascinating hour watching the monks debating. They seem to debate mainly in pairs. One monk stands and presents an arguement in the debate with stamping, clapping of hands and counting of rosary beads as he makes his point. His opponent sits, listens and makes counter arguements as he can.

Whilst acclimatising I also set about organising a trip out of Lhasa. There are many travel agents that provide landcruisers and drivers for overland journeys around Tibet and the notice boards at hostels provide a link between travellers to get togethrer to share cars. I teamed up with two sisters from Panama, Jennifer and Christina, for a six day trip to Gyantse, Shigatse and Everest Base camp. We asked for an English speaking driver and Damdul was allocated to look after us.

It was an amazing seven day journey from Lhasa to Everest Base Camp and back via Nam-tso Lake, reaching an altitude of 5220m at Gyatso-la. The landscapes were for the most part dry, rocky and brown as the rains come in June. I would love to see some of the same places later in the year when they are green. We followed river valleys, particularly the Brahmaputra river; climbed high, snowy passes; drove along dusty highways and gazed in awe as we passed under high frozen peaks. Everywhere prayer flags flutter from roof tops and hillsides.

Along the Friendship Highway there were many workers on the road, widening and strengthening the rocky surface (or playing pool!). Apparently the highway has been transformed over the last 3-4 years although it is still a rough,dusty and bumpy ride! Many of the villages along the route have also been improved. Damdul seemed keen to point out the improvements that the Chinese government have been making. New houses are replacing the old, certainly nearer to Lhasa, with large windowed first floor living areas over the animal housing below. However they are still maintaining the white walled, coloured edged roofs Tibetan style. Many of the dry valleys have been planted with young, bright green trees, perhaps to replenish all the felled forests in other areas?

Our first sunny day was a steady climb up to Kamba-la and then a descent to the pretty Yamdrok-no lake. At the top of the pass we were hassled for money by locals with colourfully dressed yaks and dogs to take there photos for a few yuan. We stop at Gyantse at about 4pm and look around the staues and paintings of the Kumbum with its four pairs of eyes staring out over the land around.

The next day is cold and we set off early in light snow. At Shigatse we stopped to have breakfast, and then explore the wonderful Tashilumpo monastery. This is the residence of the Panchen lamas, although the current Panchen lama 'resides' in Beijing under the careful watch of the Chinese government. In one of the chapels sits the largest gilt Buddha in the world and the monks take a pride in washing and cleaning their monastery buildings. I followed the pilgrim queue into the main hall to hear the chanting and see the yellow robed monks at prayer. Back outside a Tibetan lady smiled and gave me money! Then she tried to talk and I think invited us home but we have to go. However her friend, a Buddhist nun, whispered words about the Dalai Lama and showed me his portrait in a locket around her neck. Although the Tibetans still see the Dalai Lama as their spiritual leader even his name is not allowed to be mentioned in Tibet nd his portraits have been banned. In the afternoon we drove on to the small town of Lhatse.

After a cold night at the town of Lhatse we rose to bright sunshine. We crossed our highest pass at Gyatso-la (5220m) and then descend into New Tingri to buy our Chomolungma (Everest) permits. A detour takes us to the quiet monastery at Shegar where the monks laughingly mock 'Hello, money!'. That is something we hear from children and others all along our route and it got quite wearying. At the police checkpoint at Chey we pick up two strays, Holly and Diane, whose landcruiser has broken down. They bribed us with Snickers bars so five of us and Damdul climb slowly up to the pass at Pang-la (5120m) with clouded views of the Everest range. Then Damdul decides to suddenly take us off-road for a crazily, steep descent into the valley, missing the switchbacks of the road, to spend a night at the small village of Teshi Dzong. Teshi Dzong is not a regular stop on the route so our guesthouse was basic but cozy. The friendly people in the village crowded round and took delight at seeing themselves on our digital cameras.

The next day we drove to Basong, and changed to the bus for the last few miles to Rongphu monastery. There we off loaded our heavy packs and, breathlessly, walked the last 8km into Everest Base Camp in the bright hot sunshine. The views of Everest were fantastic - crystal clear - but as soon as I got into camp I went straight to bed in a yak tent with a storming headache. I had acclimatised quite well till we got over 5000m. The tents were wonderfully comfortable, bench beds lined the edge covered with heaps of duvets and blankets and a stove in the middle of the tent kept the chill out.

After one night in the tent, I rose early to see a pink glow illuminate Everest summit and wrapped in my down jacket enjoyed the quiet of the dawn. The expedition campsite further along the valley was still but I could imagine the climbers planning their assault on the world's highest peak. We sadly said goodbye to Hollyand Diane, who were staying on till their replacement vehicle arrived. We drove a long hard day back to Shigatse for a welcome warm shower to get rid of the smell of dust and yak! On the way back we made an extra day's detour to Nam-tso Lake, the second largest salt water lake in Tibet. As it was a last minute decision to go, we did not arrive till nearly midnight and this time our tent was icy cold with no heating. But the views of the spectacular turquoise blue lake surrounded by snow capped mountains the next morning made up for it.

Back in Lhasa I relaxed for a few days and enjoyed the sights, sounds and smells of the Tibetan areas. I took one more day excursion on a pilgrim bus to Samye monastery. You are supposed to get a permit to visit but few people get stopped so I risked it and joined the Tibetans on the warm damp steamy bus at 6.30 am in the morning. The monastery was set between mountains and river. Inside as we arrived the monks were starting a wonderful sung chant with gongs, horns and drums interspersing the voices. It was an etherial sound in the dark red-lit hall. It was also a fitting end to my Tibet journey. On the way back an English Tibetan speaking guy started chatting to me and explained about the other monasteries we visited on our way back from the pilgrimage. He turned out to be the policeman from Samye but he kindly did not ask for my permit!



Finally I thought you might like to have a description of bathroom facilities in China and Tibet. If you are of a squeamish disposition I recommend that you read no further!

Standard Asian toilets are of a squat type, as many of you will have experienced. In China going to the toilet is a communal affair. Some toilets have low partitions, but many are just a room with, at best porcelain, holes in the ground. Used toilet paper goes in a basket, not down the hole, and you usually have to supply this yourself as easterners use their left hand and water.

In more rural areas the ceramic lined hole is replaced with a slit in the floor and the smelly 'dung' mounds up below. The Potala palace has this type of loo but they are very scenic with magnificent views of the surrounding mountains. However I got stage fright when squating at the Potala as I was surrounded by a crowd of watching Tibetan women. Finally the 'loos' at Everest Base Camp took the prize as the worst ever. The mound under the slits in the floor had mountained up until overflowing and users had resorted to the rest of the floor area too! YUK!

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Photos

debate
Monks debating at Sera Monastery

potala
Red flag flying over the Potala Palace, Lhasa

sakyamuni
Sakyamuni at the Jokhang, Lhasa

pool
Playing pool at high altitude

tashiDzom
Tibetan villagers at Tashi Dzom

butter
Yak butter seller in the Barkhor area of Lhasa

chomolongma
On the way to Everest Base Camp

young monks
Young monks at Tashilumpo monastery, Shigatse

namtso
Nomad girl at Nam-tso

horns
Monks blowing base horns at Samye monastery

guardian
Guardian and Buddhas at Samye Monastery

Chinglish
Lost in Translation?

lamb
Lamb for sale. (Sorry if you are squeamish about this one)