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Over spring break from Qinghai Nationalities University, my roomate and friend join me in Tawu. At this point, I am just waiting a few days before going to Darlag and Padma Counties farther south. Killing time, however, quickly turns into fruitful research as I begin to meet prominent figures in Tawu in between sightseeing. Tawu is described in one guidebook as the quintessential 'cowboy town' of Golok. Indeed, the main road is crowded with nomads in cowboy hats with their long Tibetan coats fastened by Wild-West-style bullet belts and adorned by a knife tucked in the side. These bad boys have a rugged swagger and these days prefer motorcycles to horses as the prime mode of travel.
At the Base of Amnye Machen After a day of wandering town, we set off for the base of Amnye Machen, sacred mountain abode of the local protector Magyal Pomra. The views are stunning though the road is somewhat washed out from melted snow. We visit a Gesar Temple there, built by KTL and NR, though it is sadly locked and a bit run down. A brief attempt to bust in fails and we squint through the window to identify
all the statues. The day ends with a picnic on a windy hillside beneath a series of lhatse. A lhatse typically sits on a high pass and contains arrows and prayer flags, annually planted by members of a local community in nomadic areas of Tibet. Despite the wind, we enjoy the views and company. Back in Tawu, my roomate and I indulge in a spa and shower in the basement of our hotel, the Golok Binguan, to scrub off the thick layer of dirt accumulated during the outing.
Prayer Flags on the Hilltop Another morning, we head to the edge of town where prayer flags are heaped on a hillside. This is the former site of a slaughter house, the excesses of which so disturbed the Tibetan residents of the town that it was forced to shut down. Slowly, through the efforts of a single lama, a sacred site has emerged, replete with prayer flags, mani stone walls, temples, and a small monastery.
The khorkhang, as it is called, was founded more than ten years ago by Aku Choying, when he began building a mani wall there, carrying the stones on his own back. Mani
stones carry prayers, most often the famous OM MANI PADME HUM, aimed at clearing out suffering in the six realms of Buddhist cosmology with each syllable. Gradually, locals began to pitch in and the site has gradually grown over the years. Now the entire hillside is covered in prayer flags of all shapes, sizes and colors sending out into the wind prayers for the living and deceased. It is now a popular pilgrimage spot, with young and old climbing the hill to circle what has become sacred space associated with the benevolent goddess Tara.
Each year the site expands. There are five new small temples with prayer wheels spinning constantly at the hands of pilgrims, and Aku Choying has 50 young monks under his care receiving a traditional Buddhist education.
A Second Circumambulation On a second trip to the khorkhang with W, newly arrived from the States, we make friends along with way, and I get in good practice with my Golok dialect. In the course of ten days, I have progressed from shy and nearly mute to translating for a new arrival familiar only with the Lhasa dialect. It is rewarding to get over
my shyness and speak to Tibetans here, who are always slightly stratled and then instantly gleeful at the local greetings 'er-kha?' or 'cho-demo-yin-na?' (Both greetings roughly translate as 'how are you?'). Once they figure out that I am indeed speaking Golok dialect with them, they are happy to chat at resting spots along the pilgrimage route. We spend a nice morning with some old ladies and a young couple, before arranging a car to Darlag and heading out of town.
Travelers to Tawu The best place to stay in Tawu by far is the recently opened Golok Binguan, directly across from the bus station. Double rooms are 120 RMB but you can get them down to 70 RMB depending on your bargaining skills. In the basement, there is a sauna and shower room that is the perfect way to end the day. Even if you decide at one of the other hotels open to foreigners--Dianxin Binguan (China Telecom Hotel) or Xueshan Binguan (Snow Mountain Hotel)--the sauna is worth a visit and there are also a variety of massage options available. Plenty of restaurants in town, both Tibetan and Chinese, even hot pot! Plus there are at least two internet cafes, one across from the Gesar Plaza, and another near the Golok Binguan.
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