Chengdu to Tibet - train ride

---

Our pictures for the train ride can be found here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/ourgmb/TrainToLhasa?authkey=iYv9OBa9BqI


On June 4, we have joined a tour group to go to Tibet from Chengdu, for a total of 10 days, which includes:
- 3 days on the Qinghai-Tibet train (45 hours, start at 8:30 pm on day 1, arriving at 5:30 pm on day 3) on hard sleeper bunks.
- 6 days of touring, in Lhasa and neighbouring areas
- 1 day to fly back to Chengdu

Throughout the booking process, and several times before departure, we told the travel agent that we would prefer to have 2 lower bunks on the train. They assured me that there will be one lower bunk, and one upper bunk (third level).

At 6 pm, we were met by a representative of the travel agent and he gave us two train tickets. One for a middle bunk in carriage #3, and another for an upper bunk in carriage #13. He told us to switch bunks with others on the train.

We refused to board the train, and told the representative that we will go on another day, when they can get better tickets. Surprisingly, he agreed.

We know the tickets can be refunded. For individuals, to refund a train ticket, the service charge is 20% of the ticket price. (We paid the 20% service charge on our refunded train tickets in our 2005 travels). I suppose travel agents do not need to pay any service charge, otherwise he would have asked us to compensate them for the service charge.

We returned to our hotel. The travel agent called us later that night and told us they secured better tickets for us for June 6 departure, a lower bunk and a middle bunk, in the same carriage of the train.

(We later learned that during the train ride, sometimes the access between carriages were locked). We were glad to not have taken the June 4 tickets.

On June 5, we went to the travel agent and got our train tickets, so that we won't be caught by surprise again.

On June 6, we went to the train station. (The taxi to the train station is approximately 7 km, and it costs 15 yuan, about US$2.).

At the train station, there was some kind of security scanning, although not as tight as in an airport. Only holders of train tickets are allowed to enter the waiting area.

We realized there are no available seats in the waiting room. However, there is a tea-room. For 5 yuan, we can get a seat in the tea room, plus a cup of Sichuan flower chinese tea, plus there are TV's in the tea room.

Just prior to 8 pm, we boarded the train and wait for departure. While waiting, we realized our cabin mates were switching beds. In our cabin, we now have three Yunnan ladies (one 68 year old, and two 51 year olds) and one 17 year old young man. The three ladies are with a tour group to Tibet as well, although not in the same tour group with us. One of the 51 year old gave up her own lower bunk, in a different aisle, in exchange for the upper bunk, so that she can take care of the 68 year old (not related). We felt slightly (just slightly) ashamed for having made so much fuss in getting the lower bunk.


On the train, there are 16 carriages. Two with soft sleepers with a capacity of 40 people each (carriages # 1 & 2). Eight carriages with hard sleepers, with a capacity of 60 each (carriages # 3 to 6, #12 to 15). Four carriages with soft seats, each with a capacity of 100. Each bunk & seat will have an oxygen outlet. Car #7 is the dining car and #16 is the cargo car.

Each carriage has one toilet and three sinks. There is also a dispenser of hot water for our instant cup noodles.

More info about the Tibet train is available here:
http://www.seat61.com/China.htm#What%20are%20Chinese%20trains%20like

For the first part of the journey, up until 3 am of the third day, smoking is allowed in areas between carriages. Smoking is not allowed inside the carriage. From 3 am of the third day, oxygen is available on the trains and smoking is not allowed, although we still see a few people sneaking a few puffs.

On the evening of the second day, the train staff gave out oxygen tubes to everyone.

In the train, there are two luggage areas, one under the bed of the lower bunk, and another next to the upper bunk. There are no other racks (as in some other China trains).

We realized our cabin mates were all traveling very light. The 68 year old was carrying a small backpack, plus a grocery bag of food. The 51 year olds were each carrying a small luggage bag. They were commenting that we were carrying too much (in fact we were), but we do not understand how they can travel so lightly.

As we have had train food before in our 2006 travels, we brought a lot of instant cup noodles with us. We also brought a few packs of "instant rice", a new product with dehydrated cooked rice, preserved vegetables and meat.

On the train, hot water is provided free of charge and seemed to be available even until the end of the journey.

The train staff also pushes food trolleys during breakfast, lunch and dinner time.

For breakfast, for 10 yuan, you get a bowl of rice porridge, one egg, two steamed buns and a few small portions of preserved vegetables. For lunch and dinner, for 15 yuan, you get rice on a plate, plus some meat and vegetables. Sometimes, "sour & spicy" noodles are also available.

The dining car also serves food during breakfast, lunch and dinner time.

The train staff, several times during the train ride, came to collect garbage and sweep the floors.

T22/T23，成都-拉萨 (Chengdu - Lhasa)
(City, start time, arrival time, mileage in KM)
成都 Chengdu 20:36 20:36 0
广元 GuangYuan 1:23 1:37 319
宝鸡 BoGee 8:07 8:20 669
兰州 LanZhou 13:17 13:32 1172
西宁 Xining 16:25 16:41 1388
格尔木 Geermu 2:52 3:12 2218
那曲 Naqu 12:40 12:46 3038
拉萨 Lhasa 17:21 17:21 3360

The fare is 700 yuan for a hard sleeper from Chengdu to Lhasa (about US$90), to travel 3360 KM.

---