A Shanghai stroll

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Autumn in Shanghai is warm, unusually clear, and beckons those of us with an adventuresome spirit to explore her back alleys and neighborhoods. Thus, armed with a guidebook and a camera, I and a couple like-minded compatriots set out to wander. We choose to roam the streets of "lilong" neighborhoods on the far west side of the city. This particular area was home of wealthy investors and business folk in the 20's and 30's. Once the Japanese invaded and the cultural revolution hit Shanghai, these lovely old villas and neighborhoods drastically changed their inhabitants and lost much of their polish. As we wandered for nearly 4 hours, we were constantly amazed at the diversity of architecture. We kept reminding ourselves - WE ARE IN SHANGHAI!! It didn't always feel chinese. However, having been in China nearly 2 years, I now find myself taking one very chinese thing for granted. No matter where we wandered - no matter the economic class level - we never felt unsafe. Gawked at - certainly! Much like a trio of Tibetan Monks might be treated if they wandered into one of our mid-western American suburbs. On several occasions, residents stopped to chat with us and many gave us encouraging smiles.

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Photos

Shanghai lilong
"lilong" is a chinese word to describe a lane neighborhood. This one is oh so typical to me. From the airdrying clothes, man in pajamas, black and red brick exteriors to the great contrast between old (forground) and new (background). This just screams of Shanghai. And also not to be missed, the vegetation. Abundant all over the city. Shanghainese love their green!

Welcome home
I love this photo, taken from inside courtyard entry. this is so typical Shanghai life - bike, multiple mailboxes, advertising graphiti phone numbers, and again, the vegetation creeping onto the concrete surroundings.

The Secret Garden
Just imagine the grandeur this garden once must have held. All that remains to beckon us in is this dilapidated door.

Home for 4 (or more!)
Multiple mailboxes posted on the door. Just another indicator that this once single family dwelling is now occupied by multiple families.

Mini villa
Note the care that the owner of this "mini-villa" bestowed upon his/her residence. Everything from the neatly drying clothes, well tended potted plants, chair pushed properly in, even a doormat gracing the entry - it all reveals the nature of it's caregiver.

English tudor in Shanghai
Another surprise - a lane full of english tudor style homes from the 30's. Again, note the backdrop of the modern hi-rise.

1930's Mansions
The building on the right of this photo was actually a mansion built for the concubine of a government official. The tudor home in the center of the photo is mostly interesting to me because of the interesting contrast with the new high rise looming behind. So much dissonance in this city.

Ma jiang anyone?
Peering into a courtyard off one of the lanes, we observe another common Shanghai sight. Friends engaged in games of ma jiang. Notice how many people are crowded around the 2 tables and note that only 4 people play at each table. The others are presumably "helping" those who are playing. Love the blue curlers! This is, afterall, their home.

Tailor
This man with the vibrant smile greeted us warmly as we strolled around the area of his shop.

A little break
This trio was right at home playing cards on the side of a quiet lane. Bikes parked alongside. Another typical Shanghai sight.

No, these are NOT the locals!!
Leigh and Sally, my intrepid companions, posing Asian style.