QingHai (ASD)

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My transportation to 西宁 is one of the most expensive one - soft sleeper. Luxury but not by choice! I was planning to bus to the train station, but was running late because I have go and grab a cross stitch, a new thing that is going to make the long journey more bearable. There is traffic everywhere in the city due to the subway construction. There is a saying that 来了成都不想走。 I was joking with the taxi driver that 想走也走不了，堵住了。 = P

My roommate for the ride is a guy who play drum in a band, a son and his father. After getting on so many long train journey, 20+ hour on a train is a piece of cake. Sleep, music, cross stitch and looking out the window, before I know it, I arrived in 西宁. I was contemplating which hostel to go to, two of them have very good reviews online. I look out for people with big backpacks, who most likely heading to a hostel. My strategy worked out. I found two backpackers who are heading to a hostel and inviting myself to tag along. One of them is from 四川，the other one is from 重庆. Fun grils! When we got off the bus, we have trouble locating the hostel. Two backpacker looking people walked by and asked whether we are looking for 西凉驿hostel and pointed us to the right direction. This is what I love the backpacker community, so much love!!!

While I am waiting to be checked in, I realized there is a wide variety of people staying in hostel (maybe this one especially). One guy on his own ask for a single room with large bed, two girls from Canton refused to stay in a mixed dorm. What are these people doing in a youth hostel? They should checked into the hotel across the street. =/ If you demand all these things, it defeats the point of staying in a hostel.

After settling in, we went out to hunt for food. One of the famous item in 西宁 is their yogurt. I don't believe it at first, but after trying it, it is the greatest yogurt!!! Very fresh. With a full stomach, my next mission is to figure out how to get to 青海湖. Unfortunately, the two girls already have their own plan, I am on my own. In a hostel, people usually would post on the message board to look for travel buddy/ies. I went back to the hostel and try to see if anyone is looking for people. I overheard a few people behind me discussing plan to visit 青海湖, so I invited myself again. Quickly, the six of us has a plan. Before knowing it, another three guys decided to join us, bring the total to nine people. A huge group. But because these three guys, I was able to observe of relationship development among the young people in China and how quick it could be, especially for peole on the road. We contact a driver, agreed on the route and price, time to meet up the next morning. We are all set!

It is about dinner time, the group plus the two girl decided to go to the famous night market for food. Total of 11 people, we 浩浩荡荡 walked toward the market. In the 30 mins walk to the market, we all can smell "love" developing between the leader of the three guys and our "leader", both from BeiJing. Many times, the two of them will walk ahead of us and the guy is totally flirtly with her. Wow, that is quick. With the help of the guy's two buddies fan the flame on the side, the "fire" spread fast.

We got a lot of lamb for dinner. Majority of the population in the area is 清真 (Muslim), who does not eat pork. Due to the geography, lamb is the most available meat in the area. Lamb cooking is one of the local specialty. The guy is in charge of ordering, we eat. = ) I am not a big fan of lamb, but that dinner was pretty good. One of the guys accidently asked for beer and was told the restaurant does not serve alcohol. In addition to no pork, local Muslim also does not drink.

After dinner, I went to look for a cap. The "leader" guy continue his effort to try to sweep the girl off her feet, and it is working. We got more yogurt for dessert back at the hostel. They taught be a very silly drinking game, it was fun. The "fire of love" continues to spread.

One of my roommate is a 忧郁男. He taught in the 玉树 area, where an earthquake hit few year ago. His experience sounds amazing, but he had a lot on his mind and very down. The only thing I can do is to give him space to sort things out. There are many reason that people are on the road: to look for something, to escape from life, seek a break from life, etc. It could be the most sensitive topic of all and it is not easy for other people to understand. What we really need is our own space and let us going through our emotions. Eventually, things will be fine.

We all agreed that we will be down in the lobby area around 8. But I only see a few of us when I went downstairs. As expected, we are running late already due the big size of the group. Finally, we made it out of the door and get on our way. The weather is kinda gloomy with rain here and there. We crossed our fingers that the sun would come out when we get to the lake. When we stopped for lunch in a small town, hail actually came down during a block distance only. Weather is very unpredictable in the high land. Instead of a quick lunch, we got a big meal with multiple courses. At that point, I was not thinking too much. But at the end of the trip, things made much more sense when everything added up.

Our first welcome around the lake is 油菜花田. Because it is already pass the season, there is not that much left already, except a few patch. But even though it is only a not so big area, I was super excited. I have heard so much about the beauty of 油菜花田, saw many photos only and got a glimpse of it in 云南, seeing them up and close is just different. Lucky us, the sky cleared up and the sun came up. Blue sky with beautiful clouds, numerous 油菜花, it is picture perfect. We spend way too long taking photo there, but it is well worth it. One sad thing is the local people had circled off the 油菜花田 and charged tourist for taking photos in it, ranging from 10-15 yuan per person. We negotiated 60 yuan for all of us. = / This is a gift from mother nature, people again had made it into their money making tools. Why can't we just enjoy the beauty of nature the way it should be.

To continued the love story, it turned out that the guys is a photographer. One of his strategy is to make the girl the focus of his camera. She totally modeled for him and he complimented her, the "fire of love" is getting stronger!!! The other two friends of the guys continues to be extremely helpful by adding "oil" the flame! = )

Along the 青海湖, the 游牧lifestyle persisted. Life of the local people revolved around the location of nice grass for their sheep, which is very much depend on mother nature. They lived in tents and has no permanent address due to uncertainty. From our driver, we had learned that the Chinese government had made great effort to settle down the local people by giving them free house, free motorcycle and other thing, as encourage for them to stay put in a place. Along the way, we saw many government build houses in community, which is suppose for the local people, but they are pretty much empty. Despite the huge incentive that the government offer, it can't change people's DNA. The 游牧 lifestyle had passed down for generations. The local people are mostly Tibetan, who believe in 大理喇嘛, but the Chinese government. I learned from my sad roommate that the remote Tibetan area he teaches in, people actually still believe that they are the citizen of an ancient kingdom, not China, and follow the rules and lifestyle of the disappeared kingdom. As I continued to explore the Western part of China, I can see this is so true in many places. The diversity and complexity of so many ethic groups in group is a very interesting and complex phenomenon. Our driver's comment on this is that these people are selfish bastards that does not appreciates things given to them. Maybe this is true, but I am in no position to judge without first hand experiences and knowledge.

The scenery is beautiful around us, but we did not really have time to stop and enjoy it. Our next stop is the 茶卡盐湖，one of the large salt lake in the region. We drove for almost three hours to get to the salt lake, and it is worth it. From the distance, the top of the lake is snow-white, like it is covered in snow. As you walk closer, we can see the top of the lake is crystallized and you can actually walk on top of it. My favorite part of the lake is the old rail-way that stretch into the far distance, in the middle of the lake. Walk on the railway, take in the beautify lake around, very quiet around, it is soothing. There are many big status made of the salt around the lake that are climbable. Perfect spot to take photo of the settling sun over the lake.

The "fire of love" is out in the open. For most of our time at the salt lake, the guy and the girl is went off on their own taking photos. She is the model and totally sucking up the attention. = )

For the night, we are going to stay in a hotel in 黑马河, suppose to be one of the best spot for sunrise. We left the salt lake and head back toward the town, in the meanwhile, we grab dinner. I had to admit something here: I peed in an open parking lot... I really had to pee and the good toilet that is probably used by the city officials only is locked up. The public toilet used by the local is very old and dirty, like the one we used in the village. I don't even dare to walk in there. I sent the guys into the their toilet and checked out the condition, and it is bad (imagine the guy's toilet is bad already, the women side must be horrible). Two of the guys actually choose to pee behind the car in the parking lot. I decided that I would rather do what the guys did than going into the toilet house. So I sent the guys to guard the "entrance", make sure there is no local people coming for toilet and I released myself behind a car in the open. When confront with nasty toilets in China, I have no shame. = P I felt bad that the local people have to use toilet in such conditions. And more, I don't understand why the better toilet is locked up. BS!! = / Another big meal for dinner, it is already dark by the time we left the restaurant.

On the way back, instead of sitting shotgun (his usual seat on the way here), he moved right next to the girl. In the dark, it is "toasty" between them. = )

Instead of looking at the love birds, I looked outside the window. The sky is beautiful and clear, we can see the stars clearly. The stars are so close, I almost can tough them reach out. We finally arrived at the hostel, it is a very basic one, just basic facility. At least there is bathroom, water heater and TV. We catch 中国好声音, the hottest show for the summer. Suddenly, everything went black. We lost power, which mean no shower. I was not planning to take a shower anyway, so I am cool. The hotel had a generator, so at least we got lights. The night is cold, but clear. If it is warm, I would love to just lay outside and watch the starry sky.

The boys come over to grab the girl to their room to play game. I think if they could, I don't think they mind getting their own room. = )

We got up very early to watch the sunset next to the lake. It is so cold out there due to the high altitude, driver told us people usually took the blanket with them. = ) The sky is cloudy, we can only see light coming through the crack of the cloud. Kinda disappointed = ( After an hour for the girls to wash their hair and pack their stuffs, we got on the road again. Shortly, I realized we are go backward. I was confused, because our original plan is to circle the lake, there should be no back tracking. And for our whole time here, we never go close to the lake, only see it in the far distance. Finally, I saw a split road doing down toward the lake. I asked the driver to go down the road taking us down the road. Finally, we were able to enjoy the blue lake close by. The lake shore is off-limit, a grass area separate any human activities from the lake, which is about 50 meters wide. The lake is considered sacred in the local culture, this is the way to prevent damage and pollution. There are local people offering horse ride on the grass area to tourist. One of the guy, who joined us mid-way from the hotel we staying in, paid for a horse ride. He was doing pretty good, until the horse hit the barbwire on the way back. Like a slow motion movie, I saw the horse hit the wire and flip over. The guy was threw off from the horse in an arch shape curve and landed on the grass. Fortunately, neither the people or the horse is hurt. What a scare!

Couple of us are trying to under why we are going backward, we were suppose to circle the lake. We finally asked the driver and he told us that he is going to circle back to a certain point and then bought us to the next place. We told him that is not our plan at all. The driver said that is what we agreed on over the phone before. Our leader tried to say that is not what she said, but she was no use arguing with the driver. The driver told us if we want to circle the lake, which would be longer distance, it is going to cost us. Since we are stuck with him and no other better option, we either stick with his original plan or got rip off. Reluctantly, we accepted "his" plan. The mistake we made is have a "leader" who is no much use and did not discuss with the driver face-to-face prior to departure on our plan and firm up on the price. Ultimately, we put everything in the hand of a useless leader. = / Lesson learned.

朝拜： Potala Palace is THE sacred destination in the Tibetan region. It is the lifetime goal for all believers to visit there. One of the most sincere way to get there is 一步一拜. I saw a monk performing this for the first time here. For every step he took, he would pray full body down. Step by step, he is getting a little closer to heaven. It takes years for people to arrive at Potala Palace, sometimes they did not make it (death). The monk did not have any carrying with him. I wonder where he got food and shelter, and what would happen to him during winter. Winter in the highland is brutal. He is in his only universe, even though there are car driving by him nonstop and loud tourist around. The only thing he see and heard is the calling from Potala Palace. As I get more into the Tibetan region, I got to recognize how significant religion in people's life. For a atheist like me, I don't really under the motivation and drive for their action. But I recognize it is a choice of life by these people and we are in position to judge.

Our next destination is sand dunes and sand gliding. After doing the sand gliding in Australia, the tiny hump is nothing compared to the hill I slide down in OZ. No way I am paying any money to do it. None of us ended up paying for it, just take photos. A bike group passed us at that area and I learned 青海 is the popular training group for many sport groups: biking, running, etc. The high altitude helps to make the athletes' lung strong for future sport events in the lower altitude. Pretty cool...

After the tiny sand dunes, we are heading to Nuclear Town (原子城）. Nuclear Town is where China developed its first nuclear bomb in the 50s. Because its remoteness, it totally got away from the Western Country's radar until the explosion. Now the town became a big museum to memorized this historical unit. We asked the driver whether we should be concern with radiation. He said, "Per research, radiation is not a concern." = / The nuclear town is just another modern town, nothing special to us. We are all not interested to see the museum, so we decided to grab lunch. Learned our lesson from our previous big meals, we decided to go for a quite bite- noddles. We picked a small noddle shop with only one person working, it turned out not to be a quick eat. At that point, there are some negative emotions going on and you can feel in the air regarding the itinary of the trip, I am one of them. When I am disgruntled about something, my rebellious side would come out, which mean very like I would pull people's leg and make things more difficult. Couple of us went out to look for other food to eat, but unsuccessful and went back for noodle. The noodle is so-so, nothing special.

After making a circle of the Nuclear Town, we are on our way back, the same way we came from. = / I don't like backtracking!!!! One of the popular temple in 西宁 is 塔尔寺, right outside of down. We convinced the driver to take us there for free. The temple is a disappointment. Surround by tourist shops and crowded with tourist, there is really not much to see unless you purchase the 60 yuan entrance ticket. No Way!! In there, I again saw a woman prayer circling the temple in the crowd. Religion is just powerful!

We all got spreadout in the temple. After circling the area for about 20 minutes, I am ready to go. Disappointment! When we got back to the hostel, we all went our separate way. Some went to catch a train home, few stay in the hostel. Guess what happened to the love birds. From what I heard, they don't want to staying in a hostel anymore and went to the 七天 across the street. Not sure if the two share a room, but I am not surprise if they did.

Within 48 hours, I have the "honor" to witness the development of this relationship. All I can say it is Dang! It is fast! From not knowing each other at all to being intimate, it really does not take too much time. (Maybe I am just too conservative). Or I should compliment the guy's skill, he nailed it! (I had to admit that he was my type and I was a little interested in the beginning = P)

Late I found out that the guy is actually a play boy, taking advantage of single woman travelers. Now things make much more sense!! I met my first Chinese play boy!

One of the guy and I will be joining the other two girls to go to 张掖the next day, then toward Tibet/XinJiang. I ran to the post office trying to buy train tickets from 张掖 to 敦煌, but I got there at 5:59pm, a minute before their closing time. I got turned away. Darn it!

After eating a lot of greasy food for more than a month, I would love some Cantones food and soup. I accidently walked by a 瓦罐汤shop and was able to enjoy a very nice jar of soup. But the rice dish is disaster. I don't know what I want to eat, so I just point to a picture with a lot of green thinking they are veggies. It turned out they are peppers, extremely spicy peppers and I got a whole dish of it over rice. My mouth was burning after one bite. The owner felt bad for me and offer me a bowl of rice for me. = P

After dinner, I took a stroll on the main street. I saw beer bottles over places, which should be the last thing I expect to see in the area will majority Muslim population. I found out later that the evil of alcohol had penetrated the local culture and region. Many people are opening drinking now and there is really not much we can do. = / The destruction of modern life!

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