Yangshuo

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Day 4-6 (March 17-19)

We set off about lunch time via a local train to the border. Here we passed through customs leaving Hong Kong and then walked through a no-mans land to the Chinese border in Shenzhen. We experienced no problems at the border and proceeded on to the station. We were to catch an overnight sleeper to Guilin, so of course the staples for the journey had to be purchased (two minute noodles, but real Chinese flavours & chilli).

We waited in a pretty comfy lounge until boarding time. The train was comfortable and smooth, with firm beds. We arrived in Guilin around 6 and onto a bus for the hour and a half journey to Yangshuo. Apparently they used to base the trips in Guilin but it has become too over run with people trying to take advantage of tourism that it has lost some of its charm.

Chinese driving is similar to other Asian country’s with the horn used to let others know they were passing. However, this is not done with the same energy and frequency as Vietnam so it appears slightly calmer. A big difference however, is the total disregard for pedestrians who have absolutely no rights. Unlike Vietnam where you walk out confidently and slowly and the traffic will go around you, here it seems you need to quickly navigate through at your own peril. Cars and bikes do not change course for you. And you have to watch out for right turning traffic which does not obey stop signs (and often the straight through traffic doesn’t either).

Yangshuo was a lovely little (by Chinese standards) town with an "old town" feel. We had noodles for breakfast using our Chinese chopsticks that we’d been given. Our hotel was a dark timbered Chinese style hotel with renovated bathroom. I’m again fortunate to have a room to myself as the other single person had paid for a single supplement meaning I have a single room for no additional cost. I’ve been lucky so far, but I don’t think I’ll mind sharing later on.

We set out after lunch for a trip on a bamboo raft on the Li River. This area is known for it’s unusual mountains/land formations called Karsts (they are shown on the 20 Yuan note). Apparently, many years ago (190 million) the area was under the ocean, but with a movement of the earths plate it is now above ground. The region is not that far from Vietnam. The limestone karsts look similar to How Long Bay in Vietnam and the people are similar to Vietnamese too.

I spent a lovely couple of hours with our group floating along the river and taking lots of pictures. We stopped for 15 minutes and sampled some local fare, a sweet taro pancake on a stick and a shrimp pancake both with chilli. Delicious. There were photo opportunities (for a price) sitting on an ox with brightly coloured saddle or holding a pair of cormorants on your shoulders on a long stick. Each karst is impressive, but the sheer expanse of there was more so. It appears that they covered an area at least 2 hours drive in all directions.

Back in town for some early dinner which was the best dish of eggplant I’ve ever tasted. It was a long thin eggplant (not the shape we know) that was thinly sliced but not the whole way through so the eggplant stayed in shape and baked in foil with spices and herbs. It is a specialty of the region and I will be in search of that recipe.

After tea some of the group were off on an optional activity to see a famous light show on the local lake. It was choreographed by the creator of the Olympic opening ceremony and we had great expectations. 600 farmers participate in it. We were picked up by our local guide (each town in China we were to have a local guide who gives us more detailed information about the area; our Intrepid leader is more for the organisational side of the whole trip and can give general information). We arrived at the venue which had spectacular gates out front and an eager crowd waiting to go in.

The gates opened and people started going in but it appeared that our guide was still waiting for someone (to bring the ticket??). We weren’t worried, at first we just kept chatting but as time went on and our guide was looking a little agitated but still reassuring us we began to wonder. We speculated that perhaps they had brought large group tickets at a discount and were selling to us and some others that were standing around, at the non-group price. Eventually someone arrived and we followed him through the gate and into a beautiful garden area. Halfway down the garden path we had to stop and wait for this second person (picking up the tickets?). We started to think that we were being led up the garden path. We could hear that the show was preparing to start and discussed with our local guide our options. A message came that we had no tickets it was sold out.

We then went made our way back into the car park a bit disappointed but philosophical - these things happen. As we made it back to the car park we were suddenly accosted by a woman who said she could give us seats for cheaper follow her. A member of our group said we’d look but if we didn’t like it we’d return. She jumped in our van directing the driver to through dark lanes until we reached some old looking farm type houses. “Follow her” she intimated waving her torch and setting off at a pace. We found ourselves walking along a muddy track behind some houses that disappeared and then we were in some fields. The narrow path weaved and became more slippery as we passed by what sounded like a pond below from the sound of croaking frogs. And still we went on, wondering what on earth we had gotten into. We had to sign disclaimers on the bamboo raft trip in the afternoon, and we joked that it turned out that the disclaimer was really needed more for the light show.

I think that we were a little nervous but felt somewhat reassured that we had a local guide along with us. However, one of the group forgot the guide spoke English and in her not so quite discussion with us joked that perhaps he was with the Chinese Mob. He laughed, and seemed to be actually pleased by the comment - perhaps we had given him a promotion.

Eventually we arrived. Our seats were tiny plastic stools like you’d see in the $2 shop with a distant side view of the show. We decided it wasn’t worth the money and started the return journey. Not far along, we lost sight of the ticket selling lady and her torch. (We were no longer customers and I think she was off to find more). We were relieved to reach our van safely and make the journey back to the hotel and, after securing the return of our ticket money we went off to bed knowing we had a real tale to tell the others tomorrow.

The next morning we set off for a bike ride through the countryside. After testing out our bikes (I was worried I would have forgotten how to stay on, but was pleased to find “it was like riding a bike”) we set off to navigate through the town streets. Cyclists have only slightly more rights on the road than pedestrians but it didn’t take long to be out of town and onto the country roads and tracks.

Apparently the story goes that Bill Clinton visited the area and made a comment that it would be good to be able to cycle in this area, and since then cycling routes and bike hire have been developed. That is not to say there are bike tracks, such cycling through the little lanes between farms, giving way to three wheeled tractor type machines. It is however a beautiful area to ride through. Rice paddies and orange groves seem to be the main crops.

After two hours we stopped at a natural formation in the mountain called Moon hill. Two energetic people decided to climb to the top, while the rest of us stopped for a fresh orange and pineapple juice (real freshly squeezed local juices). The other two returned after about half an hour (they’d been fanned all the way up by two enterprising young girls - for the price of a coke).

We order locally cooked lunch and as we were finishing we heard a commotion. A snake had been spotted. We went over to have a look and found that the snake had been mostly killed. It was right on the path up to Moon Hill (I’m glad I didn’t attempt the trip). It was a small green snake, but apparently among the more poisonous types found in China.

Only an hour to return on mostly flat but bumpy tracks. The last section had some hilly bits so I was rather hot on my return but was glad to have made it and thankful to Bill Clinton for his passing comment.

Dinner was at a local restaurant (not one of the glamorous ones but famous for the local specialty - Beer Fish). This is a dish that uses the local fish that has “mostly no bones” and lightly sautés in a special sauce and then poached in beer). It was certainly delicious, but it had lots of bones, I think perhaps they meant that it has few small bones but neglected to mention the heaps of large ones!

After dinner we went out for desert and I was surprised by a fabulous birthday cake, complete with cream flowers, cream ox (It is the year of the ox, and I was born in the year of the ox so very special year) and an amazing candle spectacular. A Candle in the shape of a tulip was lit and a huge flame burst out, as it died down the petals opened to reveal more candles on each petal and a rounding chime of “happy birthday”. Something to remember. I thought I’d keep the candle and wrapped it in many layers of towels etc and closed the bathroom door, I still could hear the chime the next morning, so decided to dismantle and leave it behind.

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Photos

Yangshuo Street
With Karsts

Karsts on Li River
These three Karsts are on the 20 Yuan note

Bamboo raft
Two of the tour group and our leader on one of the bamboo rafts

Li River and Karsts
Unfortunately a bit hazy and photos don't show them at their best.

Stalls on Sand bank
Stalls taking the opportunity to feed and sell to the tourists

Path of the Bike Ride
With Karsts in background

Cycling in Yangshuo
Stopping for a group shot amongst the fields (and Karsts).

Comments

[TezzaKezza]

you've made me laugh!!
Wow, great reading Sharyn, such beautiful, descriptive writing!! I've been giggling away at the stories about the light show adventure, Bill Clinton's helpful comments that were taken so literally by the locals,and at the musical candle that was still playing the next morning!! All very funny. The Karsts look so very stunning, and so much more so in real life I'd imagine, and Moon Hill is spectacular too. Can't wait for the next read. x Keri