Longji Rice Terraces

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Longji Rice Terraces(near Longsheng!)

Here in Southern China they grow rice, A LOT OF RICE. The Chinese like to cultivate rice by flooding the fields because it helps helps with soil fertilization, deters both weeds and pests, and keeps pesky vermin away. So how exactly does one grow rice on a hill? You make terraces. A LOT OF TERRACES.

The mountainous region around Longsheng is heavily striated with rice fields. The Longji Rice Terraces (aka the Dragon's Backbone) is by far the most spectacular showing of this farm engineering technique with terraces running from valley floor up 1,640 feet to the ridges. We were lucky to have a few hours with a clear view across the valley. Heavy fog banks and strong mists severely limit visibility usually in the winter and early-spring months. The next morning we were able to witness the fog come rolling up the mountain in a matter of minutes. This fog makes "Carl the Fog" in SF look like a slow, low lying cloud.

I took us 2 bus rides and a cab to get to the entrance to Dazhai village. This little local woman, dressed in traditional Yao cultural clothes, greeted us and offered to carry our bags and show us up to our hostel for Y20. We packed light for this trip leaving most of our heavier items (laptops, suitcases, spare camera lenses, etc.) locked in the storage room of our other hostel back in Guilin. We also recieved walking directions via email from the Dazhai hostel, so we told the little woman "Bu yao, xiexie!" (no thanks!). Even though we said "no thanks" the Yao woman still followed us. Paths up to Dazhai village were hilly with lots of stone steps and no posted signs. As we made our way up to the hostel we must've made a wrong turn because the woman behind us stopped and asked us again if we'd like a guide. It was beginning to get dark and this woman showed some incredible perserverance. For only Y20, we politely accepted.

The hostel above Dazhai village was SICK. The building was an all wood structure. It felt like an alpine ski cabin with a nice lobby and great views looking out at the rice terraces across the valley. The receptionist was worried that we'd not be coming that evening. There were only three guests staying at the hostel that evening and Elgin and I were two!! It is clearly the off-season.

That night, Elgin and I ventured out to find dinner. Most of the village was not occupied so our options were limited. We came across a place with tables set up outside. Possibly a restaurant? The owner comes out, 8 month year old in hand, and says they were not expecting customers that evenning (off-season once again) but still offers us a look at the menu. After a quick glance, we ordered pork and Chinese cabbage. The owner responds "I have no Chinese cabbage". Ok, lets do mushrooms with leeks instead. "I have none". Elgin asks in Mandarin, "what vegetables do you have then?!". The owner then leaned over our table to look over the railing at the garden below and responded "I don't have any vegetables". Funny. Organic, local grown. Field to fork. How about that?

The owner apologized and offered to show us up the hill to another place that might have a better selection. The neighbors house! They had the exact same printed menu but better gardening skills. We ate and watched "Kung Fu Masters of the Zodiac" with the family's younger children. It was interesting as I watched how the Yao culture uses a small indoor charcoal firepit for keeping warm and cooking food. Clearly, the Yao know how to use fire better than we Americans do. Kung Fu Master's is a sick show, btw. Talking snakes and a karate rooster. It's intended for kindergardeners and 1st graders. My Mandarin is elementary so I was all about it!

We set out early the next morning on the trail to Ping'An. On the bus from Yangshuo, I read about this day hike from Dazhai to the lower village, Ping'An. The book listed several scenic view points from various spots along the ridges and this route ran between of them. We had clear views for about an hour that morning before the fog rolled in. Then we could see nothing. Our visibility went to sh!t. Only 100 feet. The terracing helped us maintain constant elevation but without any visibile landmarks, we were hiking blind!

After about 2 hours, we reached the small Yao village of Zhongliu and were invited in by a family to have lunch in their home. During the peak season they have tables and chairs set up, but it's the off season so they seated us at their version of the kids table; a long bench and two small stools! It was hilarious. The kids were going nuts when they saw a mei guo ren (american person) walk into their house. They went running around the house yelling and tackling one another. The whole family, grandparents and cousins too, all came in to welcome us. They even offered us cigarettes and baiju (wine spirits). We passed on both but expressed our sincere appreciation. After lunch they let us decide what we'd like to pay. Very kind gesture. We gave assumed Y60 was ample, but up'd it to Y80 for shouts.

Back down the trail we trudged through more heavy fog and crap visibility. Along the way, we ran into some grazing mountain goats and another badass hiking Yao woman who we bought postcards from in exchange for directions and shuttle departure info. We finally reached Ping'An at 4:45pm, just in time to catch the 5:00 shuttle out of the park. The shuttle took us and another Austrailian English instructor back to Longsheng to catch another bus to Guilin. But get this! The driver's assistant phoned the other bus driver and told him to wait for us in Longsheng. 3 people's fare were enough of a reason to wait. We made the connection and watched Jackie Chan's "Big Trouble in Little China" all the back ot Guilin. Kick ass!

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