Retirement: The Chinese Get it Right!


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Asia » China » Beijing » Temple of Heaven
July 5th 2009
Published: July 14th 2009
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 Video Playlist:

1: Temple of Heaven Dancing 17 secs
2: Hackey-sack 15 secs
3: Band 16 secs
4: Singing 11 secs
5: Tai Chi 31 secs
6: The Chorus 35 secs
7: The Chorus 38 secs
There are so many people in China that retirement for men is mandatory at 55 and at 50 for women. So what do the Chinese do? Go to an old folks home, become reclusive and moan that no one visits?

Nope.

Instead, they become fully sociable, joining clubs, taking up hobbies, singing and playing games. And the place to do it all is the Temple of Heaven. Here they dance, play hackey-sack, sing in large choruses or solo, twirl ribbons, create music on Chinese stringed instruments alone or wind instruments in bands, play badminton and cards. Throughout the sprawling and well kept Temple of Heaven grounds (no one walks on the grass so its always perfect) groups gather according to what they want to do. The air is filled with music from radios, choruses and bands.

Next we went to the silk factory where we were given a demonstration on how silk is made, which is quite an incredible process. We bought a King sized silk comforter but passed on the gorgeous silk duvet priced at $550. Although I was told "best quality, cheaper here" I had a feeling I could find a great cover at home for
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Hackey-Sack
less.

The Mongolian restaurant we visited for lunch was surely my favorite. While the food was mediocre the entertainment was EXCELLENT. There were musicians, singers and dancers dressed in traditional Mongolian garb and performing some very entertaining numbers.

Next was the Bird's Nest which was the 2008 Olympic Stadium. It was over 100 degrees, and if felt worse inside where there was zero breeze, but it was still pretty cool. I had four groups of children ask me to take a picture with them as they said, "You are so beautiful!" We also saw the outside of the Water Cube, which is where all the water sport competitions took place, but only 30 people per day are allowed inside. We were not one of them.

We were taken to a market where you can buy designer knockoffs for dirt cheap- but the best part is the haggling. My favorite purchase was a bright blue Fendi purse that started at 945 yuen ($141) but I walked away paying only 200 yuen ($29). I got a Louis Vuitton wallet for $7 and an Abercrombie and Fitch sweatshirt for $14.

The girls give a price (which might under other circumstances seem fair), to which you, the buyer, shakes your head and insists this is too much. She will then come down a few dollars, but you then give her a price that she thinks is too low. She says, "No, I give you fair price. Now you tell me real price, tell me good price you pay, come on, for real now, for real, you tell me real price." I have never been one for being assertive, but I had so much fun haggling I started negotiating for Katty and Collin (two Air Force soldiers stationed at Osan that we met, very nice people). But Katty perfected the haggle by giving the vendor some money, then just walking away, insisting as she left that she had "no more money, sorry."

This third and final night was free time, so we showered, dressed and took a cab with Katty and Collin to the Hard Rock Cafe. The food was mediocre and way over-priced but it was still fun (I've now been to HRC's in Amsterdam, Las Vegas, Beijing and Seoul). It took us over 30 minutes to get a cab (several taxis pulled away when they saw we were American) so we decided not to chance it and go to the bar district. Instead, we went back to the hotel and walked to a bar around the corner. It was much like other clubs we have been to in Asia, except that no one wanted to dance near us and we think it may have been a gay club. The Chinese dance together, but not together. The will stand in a group of 2-4 people, but never touch or dance with the opposite sex. Since this was our only club experience I don't know if this is true throughout China, but in the most modern city I found it odd they were so prudish.

By midnight we were beat, so went back to the room and passed out. We checked out at 9am the next morning and flew back to Seoul.

My only complaint about Beijing was that I felt I was cheated out of the ancient Beijing I have heard and seen pictures of. It seems the real Beijing, with its common people in traditional garb, smokey alleys displaying street food and rice paper walls, was torn down and this metropolis of outrageous architecture, perfectly trimmed
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Playing music
lawns and modern autos sprung up in its place. I'm sure out tour company made it a point to avoid any areas that are not appealing, but I would have like to see a living piece of history still alive in the city.

Dan and I have been discussing our next trip and it's looking like Vietnam and Cambodia... can't wait!


Additional photos below
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Temple of Heaven

Playing music
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Mongolian Restaurant

Dancing with bowls on her head


21st July 2009

The video of the chorus was awesome, a large group of people singing together can be so moving.

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