Temples, Olympics, and more

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Thursday 6/23

We began today (after breakfast) with a visit to the Yonghe Gong (Lama Temple), a complex of progressively larger buildings topped with ornate yellow-tiled roofs built in 1694 and originally belonging to the Qing prince who would become the Yongzheng emperor. As was the custom, the complex was converted to a temple after Yongzheng's move to the Forbidden City in 1744. The temple is home to several rather beautiful incense burners, including a particularly ornate one in the second courtyard that dates back to 1746. The Falun Dian (Hall of the Wheel of Law) contains a 20-ft. bronze statue of Tsongkapa, the founder of the reformist Yellow Hat (Geluk) sect of Tibetan Buddhism, which is now the dominant school of Tibetan Buddhism. The last of the five central halls, the Wanfu Ge (Tower of Ten Thousand Happinesses), houses the temple's prize possession -- an ominous Tibetan-style statue of Maitreya (the future Buddha), carved from a single piece of white sandalwood. It’s 70 ft + tall, 20 ft of which is underground, and appears in the Guinness Book of World Record. The first three buildings were part of the original complex; the last two were built by the Buddhists after they took possession. Great site; peaceful, lots of devotees in attendance, burning incense and praying. Had some time to walk back through the exhibit halls and shop.

From our guide: Lama is a branch of Buddhism founded in the 7th century; Manchurian Empire believed in buddhism. 4th Emperor, Yongzheng, lived there between the time he turned 16 and when he became Emperor but then no one else could live in what had been the Emperor’s Palace. Green roof for a prince, then yellow for the emperor. Buddhism is the biggest religion, about 20-25% of Chinese believe, mostly in the South. North, more Taoism; West, Muslim; some Christians in the East (entry point for Europeans) and some big cities. Religion had been forbidden during the cultural revolution.

Then we walked across the street and down a ways to visit the Temple of Confucius, which was initially built in 1302 and additions were made during the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is the second largest temple constructed to Confucius, the greatest thinker and educationalist in ancient China. The temple consists of four courtyards, and highlights include Xianshi Gate (Gate of the First Teacher), Dacheng Gate (Gate of Great Accomplishment), Dacheng Hall (Hall of Great Accomplishment) and Chongshengci (Worship Hall). Dacheng Hall is the main building in the temple, where the memorial ceremony for Confucius was often held. Inside the temple we viewed some of the 198 stone tablets positioned on either side of the front courtyard, containing 51,624 names of Jinshi (the advanced scholars) of the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. The National Geographic book I have captured the place: “Like many temples to Confucius, it is dusty, neglected, and redolent of a disappearing age or a forgotten book…this is a tranquil reserve of ancient cypresses, steles..., crumbling buildings, and a forlorn air.” That doesn’t make it unattractive—the peaceful air and calm atmosphere was great. The trees were beautiful, big and old.

From our guide: Confucianism is a philosophy, developed during the Spring and Autumn period, 760-475 BC, before the Warring States Period (during which the Wall was begun). Most Chinese philosophy, Confuscianism, Taoism, about 100 schools of philosophy, were founded because they wanted to offer their master the best way to reform and govern. Confucius led the government to build public schools (opened private schools that accepted non-elite students) and set up system of testing designed to get the best students involved in the government. Confucius is not just from 1 person; there were 72 very famous, intelligent, prolific students. Confucius encouraged social, political involvement; Taoists discouraged involvement—be yourself.

Learned some symbols and what makes them up: the symbol for America (mei guo) is made of the emperor symbol with a crown, over the person symbol with a line meaning huge, big, many persons. Thus, crown/king/huge=beautiful/wonderful. Guo means kingdom.

The symbol for small grass added to that for tree, plus symbols for wheat/rice/sorghum (edible), plus a circle for mouth (He) equals harmony, peace. This symbol was seen often at the Olympics. If there’s food, there’s peace in China. Many ‘revolts’ have been led by the farmers because of lack of food.

Must have seen a Volvo out the window; comment made that China bought Volvo last year, that few cars are actually made in China unless they’re joint ventures. ABC: Agricultural Bank of China; ICBC: Industrial and Commercial Bank of China; Construction Bank (blue storefront).

After that, we rode for a bit and got off at the Drum Tower, built in Ming Dynasty and loaded up into rickshaws for a tour of a local hutong. A hutong is a unique form of community with a small street or a lane between two courtyards. There are thousands of hutongs in Beijing, most of which were built in the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties. We stopped twice—once at the local market (got Mike some spices) and once at the home of a local family who prepared dinner for us—a great meal (pork meatballs, chicken wings, rice, fried cabbage, beef & onion, vegetables, cauliflower, tofu, great celery with pork…..)!! Got back in the rickshaws for some more tour and were returned to our stopping point. I can’t imagine that everyone doesn’t take advantage of the option for this look at personal life in Beijing.

From our guide: Hutong is originally a Mongolian word for water well. Now, means small alleys in quadrangles. About 15% of the people in Beijing live in these areas. One quadrangle was built for one family but after 1949 were given to 6-7 families. Sewer system is iffy, at best, only one kitchen, no central heat (very cold in the winter), need inside stoves (makes more pollution). Young people not so keen on living there; older like to stay for social interaction. Most have a community center for communal dining and activities

Next stop, 4th Ring Road and the Olympic Village! The campus built for the 1990 Asian Games was used as the basis for the grounds. It was rather overcast. We were able to see the Bird’s Nest and the TV communications tower and the swimming cube. Birds’ next holds 92,000, used for soccer and other sports, still the largest stadium in Asia. Lots of the citizens were given two weeks vacation and left town because it would be so crowded.

One of our faculty members teaches Nursing and expressed an interest in learning about Chinese Traditional Medicine so we went to a clinic. We had a tour of the museum, had a bit of a lecture, had the opportunity to have a doctor feel our pulse and diagnose us and could have bought some of the prescriptions (very much the same model used at the pearl, jade, cloissonne factories!).
My notes: ‘traditional’ means herbal, animal, mineral combined. 1000 years ago was the first acupuncture model delineating the pressure points. There was an anotomical model with the needle points identified that was covered in beeswax; the student would be tested by inserting the needles through the beeswax into the correct holes. 4000 years ago, pressure points had been identified but were treated with heated stones or tooths. 3800 years ago, herbal research was done by Shennong (who was poisoned by accident). 2-3000 years ago dried bones were used. However, many bones were found to be oracle bones so, to protect that history, they are no longer being destroyed. Now, only use herbs (no bones, etc.). Medical wine was used to preserve medicine, animal parts, etc. The traditional drug store of drawers, each with 3 parts to keep similar herbs together (same family of herbs). People like to collect the herbs and cook them at home. Treatments, therapies, prescriptions had been written 2000 years ago. Map of the Inner World (they should publish that as a poster for sale). Drug and non-drug therapy. Pulse-taking pillows (to lay your wrist on while the dr takes your pulse with three fingers). Ying yang balance = healthy; always thinking of balance. 8000 herbs are used to make about 800 herbal medicines. Add herbs purposefully to their foods, instead of taking separate medicine. They’d rather prevent than cure. Usually 5-30 herbs per prescription: 1 for first symptom, 2nd for 2nd symptom; 3rd for combining them, 4th to get it to the correct spot. Bees: used honey comb; herbal leaf hat for fever. 20 meridian lines; 354 acupuncture points. Meridian lines function in the body, acupuncture has been shown by xray that the points do coordinate. Pulse: 3 fingers: both sides, each tells different things: spleen, lung, heart, stomach, etc., all indicated one dysfunction may make another dysfunction. You may think the symptons are the same but they’re not. Tongue indicates a lot: pale, red; long hard curve indicates diabetes; touching ears, arm, leg and lots of questions are part of the diagnosis. Holistic approach includes bad habits. Chinese patients like to go in without symptoms for preventive care.

We made it back to the hotel just in time for a fairly powerful thunderstorm. We couldn’t see much of the lightning but heard the thunder. As a result, Drew and I decided to stay in for dinner! Several folks went out and got completely soaked. Really cleared up the air, though, and cooled it down.

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Photos

Final Temple
the one with the huge Sandalwood Buddha statue

Close up of the workers
on the top porch--see the tie-ons? nope, neither did we...