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May 30th 2006
Published: May 30th 2006
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Tues 23rd. May. Shanghai.
After a non[event breakfast, we walk through the chaotic streets to the Bund. This is a beautiful promenade, with spectacular views of the city's skyscrapers and the unique Pearl Tower. The Huang Pu River is awash with all sizes of boats and like the traffic, they seem to have little lane discipline. The sun is up there somewhere, because it's hot, but the pollution puts a thick layer of mist everywhere. Unfortunately it doesn't obliterate the many touts and beggars. We expected better of Shanghai. Next on our itinery is Yu Yuan Gardens and Jim is amazed at how many tourist shops have sprung up around the entrance. For all the world the buildings look centuries old, so we start to wonder how much authentic architecture we actually have seen. The waterways around the gardens are home to a vast number of Coy Carp. We've never seen so many. Once inside, the number of tourists thin out and it's pleasant to walk around. The amazing rockery is the star of the show, but there weren't enough flowers to satisfy me, in fact there were hardly any. Walking back to our hotel via The Bund, the mist has lifted a little, so out comes the camera yet again, trying to capture the American feel of this oriental city. At night time the neon lights give a spectacular show, but it's harder than ever to negotiate the touts and beggars. Even though our belly thinks our throat is cut, neither of us can stomach the disgusting meal we've ordered. The taste, the fat and the look of it puts us right off.

Wed. 24th.
We take the ferry to Pudong, where Jim is deterlined to hunt down a good restaurant from his past. If not, we'll be asking you for food parcels! The weather is again hot, and the pollution has thinned out a little over this side. Construction sites are everywhere and we're devastated to find a huge intersection on the site of our elusive restaurant. We book up a little when we find a hostel with accessible internet, and finally get some blog done. Even better, the girl at the office points us in the direction of a restaurant that serves edible, enjoyable food! Things are looking up. Determinrd to find some relics of Jim's past, we catch the metro to the top of Nanjing Road and, thankfully, the "Long Bar", next to The Portman Shangri-La Hotel, is still there. It's very busy, so we sit at the bar and soak up the tremendous atmosphere. Unfortunately, it's Happy Hour, but it does give us chance to get aquainted with the English guy, Steven, on the next stool, and, eventually his friend Greg. Two really nice men, rolling in money, but working 24-7, and not at all haopy. By the time we'd left the pub behind, they'd moved Shanghai around a bit, so it took ages to walk back to our hotel! Another enjoyable day.

Thurs. 25th.
The flight to Beijing is not until 14:00, so we have a panic free morning and then catch the metro to the Magnetic Train. We were only told about this phenomenon last night in the Long Bar, and are we glad we were. It's a hi-tech, magnetic levtation train that travels to the airport at 430 km/hr (280 m.p.h. in our money!), and is so smoothe and quiet. That is, until another one passes by, and then it sounds like Concorde for a split second. Fantastic! Pudong International Airport is the latest one in Shanghai, and we can't fault it, so much space. We touch down in Beijing to grey. cold, wet weather and the pollution is worse than ever. The hotel room leaves a lot to be desired, but they have promised us a better one tomorrow. The restauirant we choose for dinner has won all kinds of awards for their Peking Duck, but , would you believe, it's sold out! No way would theyn get awards for the food they served us, but the beer was cold.

Fri. 26th.
Our new room is much larger. We can actually walk around in it, and it has a nice view over the much hyped pedestrian street. The weather is no better, so we just have a scoot around the area and catch up on some much needed rest. A Northwich couple in Shanghai recommended the restaurant we were going to tonight, but try as we might, we can't get a taxi to stop in the torrential rain. So we abort that idea and find a local place that is really good. It's full of people, and we wouldn't like to inspect the kitchen for all the tea in China, but the meal is delicious. We've been told that if you don't like the weather here one day, it will be changed by the next. We drip back to our hotel, hoping this is true.



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