Cambodia & Thailand

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Cambodia and Thailand Field Notes from the journal of Donald Lyon, January 23-February 15, 2010. The purpose of these notes is to provide a record of images made by the members of the pre and post Friendship with Cambodia group and to provide a record of activities for the Friendship with Cambodia study tour group.

January 23, 2010 (Day 1 -Bangkok to Siem Reap): For your humble correspondent (YHC) Donald Lyon (Brownsville, OR) and Connie Bull (Portland, OR) and Sylvia Giustina (Eugene, OR) the day began very early with 5:30 transfers from downtown Bangkok to the new airport. We looked for Denise Wendt (Creswell, OR) who was to join us and learned later she had cancelled her trip at the last moment—sorry Denise. We three were the first to clear customs in Siem Reap (one picture, $20 visa fee) and soon we had met Mr. Cheam, our driver for the next three days. At Jasmine Guest House we met Kelsi Lyon, YHC’s niece and her friend Adria who were traveling around SE Asia and would join us for the next three days. At 11:15 we tuk tuk’ed to the old market to check out the ever expanding handicraft offerings then had lunch at the unpretentious but delicious Khmer Kitchen on Pub Street. Lemongrass soup—yellow noodles with chicken, yumm. We also visited Michael McDermott’s gallery for some photographic inspiration. Searing infrared images. At 4pm we drove to Polangar Monastery to meet two young monks, same ages as Kelsi and Adria (late 20’s). YHC had met Bunthouen several years earlier and kept in touch. His friend Chantha also joined us for our explorations of Angkor--they to practice English and for us, a chance to hear first hand about Cambodia. They made great models, too! We purchased multi-day passes to the Angkor Archeological site and then drove in for an orientation stopping at Angkor Wat very briefly, then the South Gate of Angkor Thom (heads on the bridge) and then to the Bayon with the 200 plus giant heads. The sun sets at 6:30 at this latitude. After returning our saffron robed friends to their monastery we had dinner at Khmer Kitchen #2—why mess with a good thing? Chicken or Fish Amok—the national dish—tonight. By 8pm we are back at our cozy Jasmine Lodge where the owner, Mr. Kunh makes us feel very welcome. He learned his craft at Soria Moria Hotel where we would be staying with the Friendship with Cambodia group.

Day 2 Ruins of Angkor: Daylight at 6:30. We left our lodge at 7:30 at met our Cambodian friends. Our first photo stop was at the South Gate where the smiling gods on the left and the scowling Asuras (demons) on the right side of the bridge are pulling on the giant serpent, which is wrapped around Mount Mandara. It is not a tug of war but a cooperative effort to churn up the Ocean of Milk and create Soma, the elixir of immortality. The story is part of the Hindu creation myths and is told and represented on stonewalls at Angkor Wat and in larger than life size sculpture on the bridges crossing the moats into Angkor Thom.

Walking through the portals we could look back to see caparisoned elephants heading through the gates bringing tourists to the Bayon. Three headed stone elephants guard the portals. Every bit of stone is carved and the imagery is rich.
Further on is the Bayon, the temple that stands at the center of Angkor Thom. Like most Hindu and Buddhist temples of this era (including Borobudur in Java) the floorplan is a model of the Cosmos with Mt. Meru in the center, other sacred mountain ranges around it and protective moats around those. Our Bunthouen and Chantha are good guides with lots to show us. They know the stories from the carvings and enjoy talking with Kelsi and Adria but are a little put out by having the other tourist cameras constantly pointed at them. That reminds YHC to be as considerate as possible, too. By mid morning the sun is intense. Sylvia and YHC retreat to shady corridors (part of those mythical mountain ranges) where we capture bas reliefs in full sun on the south side then other reliefs in shade on the west side. The best ones are on the East side near the entrance. See pp. 84-94 in Freeman and Jacques’ Ancient Angkor for descriptions. At 10 AM as we all rendezvous a voice calls out to Sylvia. It’s John Henry who came early to tour the ruins in detail with Sokuan Truy , who will be our guide during the FWC tour. Bunthouen led us through the nearby Bapuon, 11th C. State Temple. The royal baths are here, as is the Terrace of the Leper King with the “hidden” bas reliefs and the Terrace of the Elephants which was a reviewing platform where the royal family and friends congratulated their triumphant armies. More 3 headed elephants holding up the corners. Now it was 11:30 and we knew our two young monks were supposed to finish their last meal of the day by noon so we had lunch at one of the outdoor cafes nearby—cashew chicken for YHC and chicken soup for our Buddhist friends. Back to our respective lodgings for a two-hour break and out again at 3pm to visit Ta Promn. Soon we were separated in this labyrinth with Kelsi, Adria and Chantha on one course and Sylvia, Connie and YHC following Bunthouen. The monks knew all the secret places and showed us the best tree roots and we found the little apsara head peeking through the tree roots, the rest of her dancing body held tight in the grip of the great snake like silk tree roots. It was fun to watch how other visitors reacted when they came around the bend of a crumbled wall and face to face with our two monks. Most pretended to ignore them and then snapped pictures surreptitiously. Bunthouen and Chantha tried to be gracious. At dusk we left our friends at their monastery to tell their friends of the days events while we drove to Le Grand Café, soon to be our favorite. The ambience of the old French colonial building with its open arches overlooking the market is quite special. Red wine from Chile’s Maipo Valley was an added attraction for some.

Day 3 Banteay Srei and Angkor Wat: Out at 5:30 with Mr. Cheam to pick up our two friends, then a 45 minute ride up into the hills to the red sandstone, Citadel of the Women, Banteay Srei. It was quite beautiful to drive through the countryside as the new day was dawning. Small villages are at their most active at sunrise. Our timing was perfect as we had the site to ourselves for almost an hour, time to enjoy and capture the reflections of the pink flowering trees and lily pads in the moat and the stone—golden in the early light. For YHC the beauty here is in the quiet isolation, the golden stone and reflections. Then there are the stone carvings—scenes over the lintels are exquisitely detailed—making good use of this hard fine grain sandstone. The temple is dedicated to Shiva so many scenes relate his glory. The east facing lintels of the western “libraries” are well carved but it is the east facing lintels of the eastern “libraries”, north and south, that are most expressive—mainly scenes from the Hindu creation tales. Some nice back lit scenes of Bunthouen along the entrance way which is lined with boundary stones.
As the tour groups arrived we rescued our too colorful friends and retreat to one of the cafes for breakfast of banana pancakes. They were just OK—not the same fritters that YHC had enjoyed in the past. Driving home we stopped to see the palm toddy being collected from the trees. Kelsi tried climbing the tiny bamboo ladders. The sap is boiled down to make jaggery sugar. It also can be fermented into wine and when distilled makes a palatable drop of moonshine. Further along is Prean Kuen temple. We stopped for overviews of this Mayan like structure with it’s broad staircase. It is 9th C. —one of the oldest temples. We said “good bye” to our two friends at their monastery, providing them with the wherewithal to continue studies for a bit longer and our thanks for their company. We had lunch at the Red Piano, also in an old French building by the market. After a short break we drove to Angkor Wat at 3PM. Each of us had our objectives. For Kelsi and Adria it was to climb to the top of “Mt. Meru”. Sylvia wanted to confirm the identification of bas reliefs photographed the year before. Connie wanted to see it all. For YHC it took three hours to do a simple circumnavigation even though he had been there many times before. Dinner again at the Grand Café where toasts were made to the success of our pre-tour explorations. Ginger Fish for YHC—very good. No electricity tonight—it was a little sticky without the fan. Now—where is that headlamp?

Jan. 26—Day 4 of Pre-tour and Day 1 of FWC study tour: Angkor Ambience and FWC: Out at 6:30 this morn before breakfast. We drove straight to the Bayon for two glorious hours. It was wonderful to capture the light moving from mauve to gold and hard to know where to point our cameras, as the images were everywhere. Kelsi climbed into the NE “library” to meditate in the lotus position and became quite the photo attraction for the tour groups who began arriving about 8 AM. Sylvia concentrated on the Elephant Terrace and surrounding structures. By 8:30 we gathered at one of the cafes to chat with the kids and by 9:30 we were back at the Jasmine Lodge eating our American breakfast of eggs with fresh French baguettes, butter & jam. We settled up with our congenial host, Mr. Kunn. Mr. Cheam, our patient driver, drove us to Soria Moria hotel to check in for another three nights. Kelsi and Adria met Bhavia and were invited to join the group for lunch and the afternoon’s activities—thank you Bhavia. At noon we met Sokuan our fearless local guide who would prove to be quite a gem. Mani was along to represent About Asia and pay the bills. He provided a calm presence. Our new group is now 16 Americans and three Cambodians—“Jum Reep Sur” y’all. Our lunch at Sala Bai was delicious and beautifully presented as this is a training school to train disadvantaged young Cambodians in the hotel and restaurant trades where they might break the cycle of poverty. Three course meal with spicy beef—hmnn. All of our meals and most of our accommodations would be provided by organizations set up as non profits to encourage growth and self reliance. Our luxurious big bus driven by young Mr. Kain took us to Wat Atuea, a monastery off the beaten track where the kindly abbot received us, surrounded by kittens, and chanted a blessing for our safe journey in his country. We were splashed with water and a red blessing string was tied around the wrist of each of us which was to remain in place for 7 days. One month later YHC is still wearing his and it seems to be working. At Happy Family Orphanage about 45 kids are looked after by Ming and the older kids. It is a very simple facility with out any bells or whistles beyond the devotion and love of the head mother and Bob Lee—US based fundraiser. FWC has provided about $15,000 in funding.

Day 2 (27 Jan.) Ruins of Angkor: Out at 7:30 AM to purchase 3 day passes for the Angkor Archeological Park. Soon we were at the South Gate of Angkor Thom where we walked across the moat past the gods and asuras churning the ocean of milk. Many of the heads are copies, originals having been stolen for collectors. The gateway is crowned with the four faced all seeing bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara who looks suspiciously like King Jayavarman VII, builder of Angkor Thom, Ta Promn and others. At the Bayon, Sokun ably explains the bas-reliefs pointing out many unique features. There are scenes of everyday life, scenes from the ancient myths and historical, mainly triumphal battle, scenes. We walked around the SE side, studying the decorated walls. Then up to the big heads and eventually over to the Elephant Terrace. Lunch at Paul du Brule Hotel School where half are on scholarship. In the afternoon we visited Angkor Wat. Again, Sokun’s guiding gave us an excellent abbreviated tour along the western bas reliefs, then through the center to the ritual pools where the best Apsaras are found—breasts polished to a high luster by many admiring hands. Dinner tonight at La Noria Restaurant.

Day 3 (28 Jan.) Siem Reap Area: 7:30 departure for Ta Prom. We stopped to listen to the Land Mine Survivor’s Quartet—CD’s $10. The group here had lost limbs and/or eyesight while clearing mines or had stepped on a mine in the army or as farmers. We made a quick tour of Ta Prom to see how the forest trees such as the ficus and silk tree were engulfing the great stonewalls—both preserver and destroyer. We toured Artisans d’ Angkor Silk Weaving Center to see how the silk worms are raised and the silk produced. Mani Shinto (sp?) provided lunch prepared and served by former street kids. The president and CEO of About Asia, Andy Booth, welcomed us and provided a fascinating overview of Cambodia, prospects for change and the efforts of his and other NGO’s. He had left a career in International Finance to start this Restaurant/Hotel training center and About Asia, incoming tour operators. Departure for Banteay Srei, 20 miles to the NE. We stopped at the Land Mind Museum begun by Aki Ra a former Khmer Rouge child soldier whose personal mission was to demine Cambodia. The 20 minute film was only mildly informative but the passion and commitment came through. John Henry was our resident Viet Nam vet. He was able to explain much of the ordinance on display such as how the Claymore mines were deployed and the mentality of the times. Sokuan guided us through the inaccurately but romantically named Citadel of the Women, explaining the stories told by the carvings over the lintels. Returning, we stopped to see how palm sugar (jaggary) was made from the toddy palm tree. We ate and we bought the local handicrafts. Singing Tree Café, being rebranded as Peace Café, is run by an Australian couple, Maureen and Tom, who teach meditation and provide the local hang out for NGO ex-pats passing through. Their place employs and trains poor local people to give them a slice of the Tourism pie. Sokuan bought bottles of palm wine and brandy. Seems the brandy was the favorite. All were able to walk unassisted back to the Soria Moria, just across the river, for a welcome good night.

Day 4 (29 Jan.) Tonle Sap: 8 AM departure today—practically a morning at leisure--thank you Bhavia). We met our naturalist, Ourn Art, at the hotel. He was armed with binoculars and bird books (as was Shoshanna). We drove to Tonle Sap which is a great basin along the Tonle Sap River. Flood waters from the Mekong back up into this basin every monsoon and create a great lake that is the spawning ground and nursery for 70% of the aquatic life in the Mekong basin and produces 80% of the protein consumed in Cambodia—the health of the lake’s eco system is thus critical to Cambodia if not all of Indo-China. Dams in China and elsewhere threaten this fragile balance. Two new members arrived today, Kathi Carpenter and 12 year old daughter Xiao. Cathi would be leading a tour for families who had adopted Cambodian children next year. Many of the floating structures we see are fish farms. Crocodiles are raised here, too. Sokun said a 5 footer was worth $1000 for the skin. Many of the people we see today are Viet Namese who fled Viet Nam at the end of the American war. The age old animosity between the two countries means that they are the poorest of the poor with no land and few rights. Kids were brought along side our boat to hop on and sell cold drinks but Bhavia reminded us that this was illegal , dangerous and fostered the begging mentality which FWC is trying to counter, promoting education for the kids and self help for the parents. Back on shore we stopped at a lotus pond where leaves and seedpods were being gathered. Besides photos of the harvesters and flowers we learned to peel and eat the seeds—quite tasty like raw peas. Lunch was a delicious set menu (including vegetarian dishes) at Butterfly Garden, another flourishing business built on providing training and services to disadvantaged locals. Very tasty and luxuriant under the butterfly netting and all walked home to the Soria Moria for a well-deserved rest until 2:30pm. Several of the group had assignments to make purchases for village distribution. Three soccer balls and pumps for Connie to purchase. We tuk tuked to Angkor Hospital for Children (Friends without A Border) begun by a Japanese photographer. The focus here is on education both staff and community. Outreach programs and 50 beds. Dr. William Housworth, the director, spoke briefly with us and his PR person showed us the facility and 20 minute film. Then six tuk tuks went in six different directions. Connie and YHC toured the craft fair with it’s fair trade booths, found the soccer balls at the old market then went to Wat Danang for some quiet contemplative time. We met a young monk who teaches English to townspeople. He invited us to his class to talk with the students who were very shy but tried their best. Dinner on our own at Le Grand Café was leisurely and delicious.

Day 5 (Jan. 30) Siem Reap to Phnom Penh: 8am departure from the lovely Soria Moria (which has trained the managers and staff of many hotels in town). The Swedish manager spoke to us about the policies in place to encourage the staff and to limit sex trafficking. We picked up pre-ordered picnic lunches from Common Grounds (the only American owned eatery in Siem Reap). Soon we were cruising down the well-paved road to the capitol. Stops at a stone-carving village where Buddha and other statues were being cut from local marble. YHC purchased a small bust of Jayavarman VII of Bayon fame for $1. Sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes with coconut milk and fermented black bean are a popular snack and travel food. Periodic toilet stops provided glimpses into other unique gustatory practices such as deep fried tarantulas—recommended for asthma. We stopped along the shores of Tonle Sap at a rest house to eat our picnic lunches. Hammocks were strung for weary drivers. Water buffalo taking a break in the mud were another stop. We arrived Phnom Penh about 5:30 PM, crossing the bridge over the Tonle Sap River, very broad here where it enters the Mekong. After a brief survey of the city most of the group were deposited at the Kabiki Hotel inside of a “gated community” of ex-pat and well off Cambodian’s apartments. The others had a walk on the wild side when the reservations at the Frangipani Hotel fell through and they ended up at the Goldiana—typical Chinese businessman’s hotel with indifferent service and loud music (a far cry from the Soria Moria, apparently). Fine dinner at Boddhi Tree Café.

Day 6 (Jan. 31) Phnom Penh Environs: It was a pleasure to wake up at the Kabiki Hotel where the Eurasian Sparrows heralded the day and breakfast was served next to the pool (which was calling, but we did not answer). By 8:15 we were united with the contingent from the other hotel and together we met the social workers and the students from Indra Devi Foundation which was begun by Mrs. Dy Ratha. Ratha’s story is detailed in Bhavia’s book, Soul Survivors. These young people from Phnom Penh’s slums were going on an outing to the countryside (and we were picking up the tab. Some of us rode in their bus and had a great time getting acquainted—taking pictures and looking at the playback screen was a great ice breaker. YHC soon found himself with a photographer’s assistant—who wanted to take all the pictures. We drove to Udong, capital during pre-Angkor times and religious site. It was full moon day so many priests dressed in white (as well as monks in saffron) were there to give and receive blessings. We visited a school for grade school kids and a sewing training center for older girls. Our young guests were off playing games organized by their social workers from Inra Devi during this part. At noon we joined them for lunch (ours was provided by Bodhi Tree Café—gorgonzola pizza for YHC). We joined in the games such as Hot Potato, Musical Chairs, and watched relays to fill pop bottles with mouthfuls of water. Those of us who had “bonded” with our young guests said good-bye while they went off on a good long hike. We also visited a rather sad resettlement camp where slum dwellers had been persuaded to leave their prime real estate in the city to relocate on a dusty field with just enough land to build a simple hut but no land for farming. During the monsoon this land would be flooded. FWC, through Indra Devi, had provided funds for several hygienic toilets and additional support for two families’ handicapped by AIDS but it was obvious that this was not a viable situation. We returned to our hotels for an hour’s rest and contemplation. At 3:30 we visited Navy, the young woman who, as a n employee of SADP (Southeast Asia Development Program) oversees FWC’s main effort—sponsoring students from 7th grade through college. We met with about 15 of them, including Sylvia’s student. They had created a video to say “Thanks” and each talked about their life and plans for the future. Navy and Bhavia matched students with travelers for one on one conversation. We were all impressed with language skills and determination to succeed, often with daunting responsibilities at home. Dinner tonight was at Friends Restaurant. Located in an old French Colonial home with an Austrain chef--the entire experience was wonderful. The food was cooked and served by former street kids now learning the hospitality trade and living in safe environments.

Day 7 (Feb. 1) Around Phnom Penh: Pleasant breakfast at the cool green gardens at the Kabiki . 8:15 departure to visit Krousar Thmey (New Family), a French NGO that provides services to street kids—first gaining trust with drop in services such as showers, meals, medical, etc. then trying to reunite kids with families and finally providing residence for those willing. We hear that virtually all street kids are addicted to sniffing glue. Thirty-one kids are in residence here. We visit the classrooms where the children seem as bright and eager as any we’ve met. Next stop is Rehab Craft where landmine and polio victims find training and work. One man, who had lost both legs just below the waist, works in the shipping department. He had been a Government Soldier fighting the Khmer Rouge and had stepped on a land mine. The bookkeeper had lost both arms at the elbows while he was trying to clear a minefield in the army. He was able to hold a pencil between both stubs though and do his bookkeeping. Lunch was at Le Rits run by NGO Nyemo, where we sat under an awning outdoors and enjoyed green papaya salad and amok fish—the national dish cooked with cocoanut milk. This is a charming boutique hotel in an old colonial building that also seeks to provide training and support for its staff. Back to our hotels for an hours break. Sokuan had lined up cyclos (bicycle powered rickshaws—where the passenger sits in front) for each of us. We were pedaled over to Tuol Sleng, the high school building that became the infamous S 21, torture and interrogation center of the Khmer Rouge from 1975-79. Our guide led us through the exhibits of torture and the mug shots of those about to die. All of us had some idea of what to expect here but I doubt any of us were prepared. At the end of the tour the guide pointed out a picture of a handful of prisoners who outlasted the Khmer Rouge and a distinguished well dressed Cambodian man identified himself as one of those gaunt haggard men posing in the picture. He had returned to Phnom Penh recently to testify in the just concluded war crimes trial of “Duch”, the prison warden of S-21. Some of us sat stunned in the garden of the Boddhi Tree Café across the street, taking some time to process what we had just experienced—it seemed necessary just to be quiet for awhile. Then our cyclos took us on our separate excursions about town. Most visited the Russian Market where everything from silk scarves to air conditioning units are sold. Connie and YHC cruised the main boulevards—Mao Tse Toung to Sihanouk to the Mekong River, then back to the elegant Malis Restaurant. An extra $2 each to our two cyclo drivers for getting us there alive. Malis is as opulent a dining experience as any thing Los Angeles or Palm Springs has to offer and we were sure the food here was much much better—all for $34 with drinks for two. As pleasant as it was, though, we preferred the easygoing camaraderie we had grown accustomed to at the training schools. Since it was dark now we took a moto-remorque (motorcycle taxi) with actual taillights back to the Kabiki and called it a day.

Day 8 (Feb. 7) Phnom Penh to Kampot: Our days have been so full of new experiences that it is difficult to remember way back to our morning at the charming Kabiki or the kitschy Goldiana now that we are many miles south near the coast at Kampot. Checking out of the hotels we drove to the southern reaches of the city to visit Cambodian Women’s Crisis Center HQ, where Say Saravathany, the Cambodian-American founder and director, a woman who had been a refugee herself, described the problems and the solution as she saw it. We met some of the women sewing crafts for sale. Here, Navy from SADP joined us for the trip south to meet her students and their families as well as the women’s self help groups of DKA. As we leave the city the land becomes greener, lush, wetter, with rice fields under cultivation. Cashews, mangosteen, palm nut oil and nutmeg plantations lined the paved road. Even though the war lasted longer in this region and many are very poor we do notice a number of new substantial homes. North of Kampot we visited the homes of members of the women’s self help organization. With some organizational help and some seed money from DKA, an NGO assisted by SADP they created their own lending program where members (and others) could borrow small amounts for house repair, buying piglets to raise or to purchase fishing nets. One entrepreneur had made a charcoal kiln and saved enough money to purchase a motorbike that her husband used as a taxi and she could take fish to market to get a better price than selling them wholesale in her village. She was an engaging dynamo who just needed an opportunity to become self sufficient—one of FWC’s many success stories. She had build a new house and kept the old shack as a reminder. In Kampot as the sun sets over the river and through the casuarina trees we settle in to two riverside guest houses—the Little Garden and the Moliden Guest Houses—basic but fine for the locale. Very pleasant dinner at The Little Garden with Navy. The rooms have big screened windows and fans—AC was not needed and the mosquitoes kept to themselves.

Day 9 (3 Feb.) Kampot area: At leisure until 9 AM this pleasant day—time to visit the busy market 4-5 blocks away. Black peppercorns from Kampot are considered the best in the world and a half kilo was only $2.50. Many old French era buildings quietly moldering away. Back on the bus we visited a high school hoping to talk with students but it was exam day and we didn’t want to interfere. The administrator used his laptop to present a lot of facts and figures—enough to satisfy a government bureaucrat it seemed. The administrator said the cost for a student to attend high school was only $20-$30 per year but he was not owning up to the real costs. For example, students must attend private classes if they wish to pass the tests and this cost $.25 per hour so a student might need $1 per day just for the tutoring—beyond the means of most. Many students also need a bicycle to attend school. Teacher salaries are so low that tutoring provides the bulk of teacher’s income. We had an hour to explore the market then lunch at Ta Ouv Riverside Café—whole fish, squid, vegetables—delicious as usual. Sokuan bought a durian for desert so everyone could find out what all the fuss was about--some loved it, some hated it, like limburger cheese. After a short break we drove north of town to visit another women’s self help group. These were Cham (Moslems), who wear head coverings and have slightly more Mongoloid facial features and build than the typical Khmer. They have organized a banking system amongst themselves—no interest for three months. They can borrow $50 at a time to purchase goods or pay bills.. Their coop raises mushrooms—quite a sophisticated operation. Now at 4:45PM with a cool drink on the terrace of the hotel watching the volleyball game across the street. These guys may be short but they sure can jump! At 5pm we drove to the mangroves where illegal dredging that we would hear about was taking place. Two 20’ fishing boats met us for a moonlight cruise to see how the other boats laid out their fish traps and how the push net operation works. The fisherman has a headlamp powered by a motorcycle battery and pushes the net in front. Crabs, shrimps and small fish are the usual finds but no one seemed to be catching much as the dredging had sullied the water. It was beautiful to be out under the stars on this balmy night. Dinner at Dutch owned Rikitikitavi (named after the little mongoose in Kipling’s story). Lovely atmosphere at this socially responsible restaurant and inn and delicious regional specialties including a salad, curry and amok. About a third of us had opted to stay the night in the village we had visited yesterday so armed with our headlamps, off we went and had a very comfortable night once the dogs quieted down. Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night was not a problem as rural Cambodian’s use the direct application system for applying “night soil’ to their fields.

Day 10 (Feb. 4) Kampot Area: It was pleasant to wake up in the village and listen to the rhythm of life. Who would have guessed there were so many roosters within crowing distance? From the sound of things, the women’s compound was a whole lot more fun than the men’s compound. There was an outdoor “mandi” or washing tank set up for those who wanted to bathe or wash up. We packed up our sleeping pads and mosquito nets, said our “thank you”s to our host families and returned to our hotels glad to have had a small taste of village life. Our rooms looked pretty luxurious now. Breakfast at the hotel and time to explore before returning to the village for a delicious lunch of fish, shrimps and morning glory leaves. The Kampot Six arrived—these village women faced down the local authorities over illegal dredging in the bay that was destroying their fishing grounds and main income. They were not successful but proud to have stood up against the corrupt authorities even though they were harassed, threatened and had to go into hiding. Their husband’s jobs were threatened, too. After a short break we visited three students at their homes. First was Liz’s student. Her mother was making shingles from a wide flat grass. Next was a high school student who Kathi and Xiou decided to sponsor. We drank cocoanut milk from the shell and tried green mango with sugar and chilies. Our third student wants to be an engineer and needs a sponsor. The father works carrying salt. Other fathers here were day laborers and fished at night. One of the farmers had volunteered to bring his bullock cart to give us rides. Some of us commandeered the wrong cart and scared the poor man’s bullocks into a panic. He handled it all with aplomb. Dinner was at Jasmine where our hostess , married to an American, was very gracious. She hoped to open a restaurant in Portland, Oregon. By 9pm our beds were calling—a full and rich day.

Day 11 (Feb. 5) Kampot to Phnom Penh: Early departure at 7 am from the coastal town of Kampot. Sylvia’s laundry arrived in the nick of time—as did breakfast. We drove through the lush green coastal area of mangrove estuaries with a thriving riverboat culture and flooded rice fields as green as any Welsh valley. A quick stop to bless the bus at the pass but mainly we rushed to accomplish all of our tasks of the day. The Choeung Ek Killing Fields Memorial was a difficult but important stop—most felt. This is where the condemned from S21 were brought in the dark of night and bludgeoned to death. A large glass stupa holds the skulls of thousands and a new museum attempts to explain why or at least how. We said “good bye” to Navy and out young student escort here. Lunch was at Lotus Blanc, which trains former rag pickers from the dump in the culinary arts. Next was the National Museum, a true treasure trove of bronze and stone statuary from the past, especially the Angkor era. Some time to browse the numerous art shops surrounding the museum, some leisure time at our hotels (Kabiki for YHC) though still not enough time to jump in the pool with the beautiful people. Dinner tonight was at another Friends Restaurant housed in another old French mansion. This one specialized the Khmer food. Deep fried tarantulas were ordered and captured in daring poses by the more intrepid members of the group but “Aw Tay” for YHC. All of the food was as fresh as could be, so this definitely is the place when one just has to have spider. We said our good byes and “Aw Koon” to Sokuan and Kain tonight as this was the last of the group activities and we would be going separate ways tomorrow.

Day 12 (Feb. 6) Phnom Penh to Chiang Mai: The adventure continues with a 5:30 AM wake up call for the contingent containing YHC. Breakfast in our rooms then five of us were transferred to the airport for our 9:40 flights. Holly had left earlier and others were staying on to meet the student’s they had sponsored. Sylvia and YHC left Connie and Shoshana at the BKK airport and continued up to Chiang Mai where two rooms were waiting for us at the Galare Lodge cozily sitting on the banks of the Mae Ping. Camera repairs were the first order of the day and we found a shop near the Phrae Tha Gate and cleaned and repaired Sylvia’s 40-year-old Pentax overnight for under $40. At the nearby Tamarind Resort there was an exhibit of photographs by two artists. One was prints of tribal peoples from Thailand, Laos, Burma and China while the other represented images by an American violinist who was recording the music of and photographing the Hill Tribes peoples as well—perfect. This was the visual stimulus we needed to prepare for our next week. We also explored several wats nearby as the evening light was excellent. At dusk we tuk tuked back to the Galare to have a light dinner on the terrace of our inn. We spent an hour exploring the Night Market—scoping out possible purchases such as the “hamsa” carvings of mythical birds in flight. In bed by 9:30 PM—a busy day.

Day 1 (Feb. 7) Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son: Pleasantly cool this AM in the mountains after a few weeks at sea level—the sun on our shoulders at breakfast felt good. Morning at leisure to get ready for our hill tribe adventure. At 11AM we tuk tuked to the old city to pick up Sylvia’s camera and then to purchase the book by the violinist turned photographer and musicologist. We had a relaxed and delicious lunch at the Tamarind where rooms started at $200 per night but dining was very reasonable and quite good. A strong black coffee at nearby Black Canyon then tuk tuked to pick up our luggage and off to the airport for our 4:20 flight, arriving in the misty valley before 5:30. Our guide, Manop Netsuwun [e-mail] was waiting with his little white Suzuki Samauri. With only 7000 residents in town we are at the Piya Guest House in just a few minutes. Manop briefs us on the schedule which is to meet and photograph as many different Hill Tribe and minority groups as possible. Sylvia briefs Manop on her schedule and we have a match. Most Hill Tribes have migrated to Thailand via Burma or Laos over the past 200 yers from China and earlier from Mongolia or Tibet. Sylvia and YHC take a stroll around the lake where merchants are setting up for the mini Night Market—mostly Hmong fabrics switched together in contemporary styles. At 7 we walk to nearby Fern Resort for a delicious meal ordered by Manop—shrimp in cocoanut milk with chicken, vegetables, mushrooms, pork and rice. A tasty finish to a succulent day.

Day 2 (Feb. 8) Mae Hong Son: Up at 7am this pleasantly cool day—we are at about 3000 feet here. American breakfast for YHC with fresh picked rose apples. At 8:15 we drove to the nearby Padaung Refugee village of Huay Sua Tao. There are Kalaw here too. Both are sub sects of the Karen who have been fighting the Burmese for autonomy sine WWII. The Padaung custom of brass rings around the neck have given them the nick name “Long Necked” or “Giraffe Women”. The custom was dying out until the Thai military and the Padaung found that tourist would pay to see them. The Kalaw are identified by the large 50 cent size ear plugs that stretch their ear lobes. The women are allowed to sell a few handicrafts to make their living. We chose some good models from both Padaung and Kalaw women and made a few purchases before asking them to pose for us. Spirit poles at the edge of the village represent the cosmos with the sun, moon (wife of the sun) and earth represented as long poles. Exploring north we climbed up to the high hills where remnants of Chiang Kai Scheck’s Kuomintang (KMT) army had taken refuge in the decades after the Communist victory in China. They grow tea as the government weans them off the opium trade. Ban Rak Thai is the village where we stop for a tasty lunch including several kinds of pork and chicken soup, overlooking a manmade lake. Incense kept the flies at bay. All the shops were filled with the same items—tea cups, pots and tea. We sample the tropical fruit wines though Sylvia decided to stick to grape. It was now almost 2pm and so we needed to rush back to Mae Hong Son so as to visit another Karen refugee village downriver 20 minutes by long tail boat. We met one Padong woman weaving and a Kalaw mother and daughter who posed for us. Walking through the village revealed the houses, gardens and other aspects of daily life that these refugees were able to wrest from the environment. The river is fairly low. Our boatman needed an assistant to sit in the bow indicating where the best channels were. We were back at Pyla Guesthouse by 6 for a 7PM dinner at Kay Mook Restaurant where the duck , hot spicy shrimp soup and shrimp balls with honey were all delicious.

Day 3 (Feb. 9) Mae Hong Son to Chang Dao area: A visit to the post office for Sylvia while YHC photo explored the local wat which was in the process of inducting several hundred middle age men into the monastery—something Buddhists men try to do three times in their life. Driving north we reached the first of several summits where Black Lahu, with their meager offerings had set up stalls. We made a detour to see their village along a hogback ridge under beetling cliffs of limestone. Pigs with piglets were here. They were more reluctant to pose than the Lahu men at work at a forge. A Lahu woman in a black and white caftan was a good model. We are not counting the 1864 curves along the road but YHC assumes the number is greatly under estimated—so it feels from the back of the Suzuki. Towards noon we stop at the Lisu village of Ban Nam Rin (Ban = village). We walk up to Rudi and Ame’s pleasant guest house looking for subjects and meet an old Lisu woman slowly making her way up the road. We have a chat with Dutch truck driver Jerome who lives here with his Lisu wife, returning to Europe periodically in the summers to work until he has enough to come back to Thailand and coast through the winters. Next stop is Pai, the international student/hippie hangout where the farangs on motorbikes outnumber the Thais. Beef noodle soup is the specialty and it is very good. Manop decides to show us a bit of the backcountry and put the little jeep through its paces. YHC is hanging onto his teeth but we admit that the bamboo forests and the beautiful orange and yellow flowering trees are quite beautiful. We come down to a village where whitewater bamboo rafting trips and kayak trips end up. Passing Mae Taeng Elephant Camp we see 100’s of elephants here. Hitting the paved road at last we soon are at Rim Doy Resort where we have two chalet’s surrounded by a botanical wonderland of blossoms and tropical plants.

Day 4 (Feb. 10) Around Chang Dao: Cool long sleeve morning as we breakfast overlooking the lake. 8:30 departure to reach the Chang Dao Elephant Training Center for the 9am bathing. We photograph the blue clad mahouts bathing their elephants then putting them through their paces hauling logs and stacking timber. Other demonstrations show the bond between man and beast. The final demonstration by two very young elephants is of painting pictures. One produces a charming painting of one of the orange flowered trees and Sylvia snaps it up for her collection . The paper is handmade from elephant dung. Bamboo rafts through the trees are another subject. Lisu women and children selling crafts are comfortable with our cameras. There are two Palong women here, too. They have the red skirts with rattan and tin belts while the Lisu seem closer to their Chinese roots with multicolored caftans and caps. We stayed past 11am to make sure we had our shots. A nearby rest house provided cool drinks and colorful heliconia, varieties of bamboo flowers, and the beautiful pink Darlat ginger—like a banksia flower. In the town of Chang Dao we turned left to reach a beautiful cliff flanked valley where each village is a distinct ethnic group. White Karen were at the far end—images of the lady with the towel turban. A group of Ahka women with their silver coin and ball studded “helmerts” and trays of trade goods were sure we needed something. YHC selected an interesting older lady and asked her to pose. Sylvia bought a bracelet of seeds from her. Further to the SE was a Palong village where the women were traditionally dressed in their heavy skirts more suited to the highlands. A weaver with betel stained teeth was our model here at Mae On Nai. Normally all of these different tribes do live in close proximity to each other but at different altitudes and on different terrain. They grow different crops, too, so there is an interesting interdependent relationship. It appeared that they had been settled in this beautiful but dry valley and told to stay put. Lunch of chicken noodle soup at Chang Dao. A relaxing rest in the shade with a cappuccino for YHC while Sylvia and Manop sought out a bank. We returned to Rim Doy Resort by 3:30 for an afternoon of leisure to rest, wash clothes and photograph the botanical collection of this beautiful place. The red and white flowered pincushion flowers of some of the trees were especially nice. Dinner tonight was a special treat—Thai fondue where we cooked meat and vegetables in hot broth and on the sloped sides of the fondue bowl—delicious.

Day 5 (Feb. 11) Chang Dao area to Nan area: 8 AM departure from our cozy, even luxurious (this term is about to be redefined) chalets at Rim Doy. It was a long hard drive over the mountains through absolutely beautiful mountainous dry tropical forest habitat. Large brown areas indicated where the flowering bamboo was dying back—something that happens about every 10 years. Yellow and orange flowering trees, vines, plantations of teak, mangosteen and rubber. Manop said that the Chinese were the biggest investors in the rubber plantations. We took the northern route through Phrao, with lunch in a little lakeside café. It is very hot by midday so no one is fishing in the unique butterfly net style practiced here. Before 5pm Manop dropped the little jeep into 4 wheel drive and climbed up to our friend Lersack’s village of Hoi Yauck where we would spend the night. We had purchased some groceries earlier and Manop set to work to prepare dinner while Sylvia and YNC explored with our cameras. Lersack’s mother, Tia, graciously received us in her compound. She is one of just a few still wearing traditional Hmong clothing. We made a few portraits of her, met a man smoking his bamboo water pipe after a hard day in the fields. Most here grow corn and ginger. It had been six years since YHC was last here and though the people look the same, electricity had arrived. Lersack, the head man, has a refrigerator and fluorescent lights even in the bathhouse which is now concrete block and high enough to stand up in for YHC. Plastic pipe brings filtered water from a village reservoir. The chickens have found other accommodations, too. Real progress for these villagers. We three had pads laid on the ground and comforters kept us warm. A few sticks of incense is enough to repel the gnats at dinner and we don’t need the mosquito nets. We pass on the grilled frogs that Manop bought in the market and fill up on noodle soup and chicken. A glass of Sylvia’s plum wine and a Burmese cheroot are pleasant aids to conversation then a comfortable night for all.

Day 6 (Feb. 12) Lersacks village to Nan: The roosters began at midnight and attempted to out crow each other all through the night. The village began to stir about 6AM and all were up by 7am as we were. A quick breakfast of coffee and bread then Lersack offers us rice and curry, too, along with stir fried pork. We capture images of Lersacks two youngest girls drawing pictures, walked to the top of the village for sunrise shots over the valley then say our goodbyes, pack up the jeep and follow Lersack to a jungle path where he had asked his Mabri friends to set up camp. They are the indigenous people of Laos and northern Thailand, a hunter gatherer people just out of the stone age with a belief system that keeps them from joining modern society. They are also know as the Yellow Leaf People as they move camp whenever the green leaves of their shelters turn yellow. We brought them a kilo of fresh pork which they cooked in fresh green bamboo tubes plugged with a wad of leaves. The meat steamed to apparent perfection in 20 minutes. We had brought some other food for the two men, their wives and five kids who mostly live off the land or receive some rice from the farmers they help. The elder man demonstrated starting a fir from flint and steel. His razor sharp machete and fire starting kit were about his only possessions. We made a number of images to illustrate their life then said our good bys to them and Lersack too. We had a 40 km drive to Nan where we would spend the night. Our rooms at the Dhevaraj Hotel were waiting for us. We explored the market with its wonderful produce, fresh (still alive) fish and just about everything else we might desire. The city is preparing for Lunar New Years and we find that the food stalls will be set up in front of our hotel. Craft fair at the Nan National Museum gave us a few shots. Lunch at the hotel , two hours at leisure then at 3pm we walk to the old Wat Phumin. Interior walls are covered with 19th C. frescos, colorfully illustrating everyday life in this northern kingdom before the unification of Thailand. Farming, festivals and courting scenes were of particular interest. There were even British sailors and ships, which the artist may have seen on a trip to Bangkok. Next to the wat, at the Nan National Museum was the Craft Fair and a very loud band with fancifully dressed dancers who felt possessed by spirits. At nearby Wat Hua Khuang was a banana plant with about 1000 bananas developing—impressive! The old wooden library is here. The street fair is gaining momentum in front of our hotel. Manop and YHC dined on delicious dishes from the street vendors while Sylvia played it safe with selections from the hotel’s buffet. It seemed that all of NE Thailand was promenading past our table tonight.

Day 7 (Feb. 13) Nan to Chiang Mai or Bust: The day began innocently enough with 8am checkout for the six-hour drive. Within 20 kms though it was clear the little Suzuki that Could, couldn’t. We were towed back to Nan. Manop spent the day arranging for a rebuilt engine while Sylvia and YHC explored more of Nan, revisiting the frescos in better morning light and taking in the interesting cultural exhibits of the museum housed in the palace of the last king. All of the ethnic groups from Mabri to Thai-Lui (the majority, aka Country Thai) were represented here. This region was under Burmese or Khmer suzerainty for much of its history, too. Walking over to the Dhevaraj Hotel we set up housekeeping in the lobby and took turns exploring out from this base. Manop retrieved us at 5PM with the Suzuki purring like a tiger cub. We drove directly back to Chiang Mai following the main roads and arriving at 10 pm to find our rooms and our suitcases waiting. Sylvia offered us a glass of wine on the terrace of the Galare and soon we were off to bed.

Day 8 (Feb. 14) Chiang Mai to Bangkok: Happy Valentine’s Day! Morning at leisure to get packed up. We met Sylvia’s friends at 10AM and they spent the day showing her his schools for hill tribe kids. YHC enjoyed a true day at leisure with such hitherto unobtainable pleasures as a pedicure and a real cappuccino then a leisurely hour or two in an internet café—all the usual things farangs do in Chiang Mai—it was a great day. Sylvia’s friends took us to the airport for 4pm flights to Bangkok where she was met by the Novotel courtesy bus and YHC was met by the Silver and Gold Garden Hotel’s courtesy bus. Since it was still the New Year’s celebration time, the square in front of the Siver & Gold was a fairground with all manner of games and shopping opportunities but, as always in Thailand, the food was the big attraction. Our time in Asia had come full circle.
I'll be leading Friendship with Cambodia study tours like this one in January and November of 2011, contact me at or for further information.

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Comments

[Michael]

Sadly...
Dear Donald, Just a quick note to rectify an innocent mistake on your part re the the 'rebranding' of the Singing Tree Cafe to the Peace Cafe - this false information is flouted by Tom and Maureen and regrettably tells very little of what really happening. It is too long and ugly a story of partnership gone awry, but the bottom line is that the Singing Tree Cafe has now moved to a much smaller downtown location but still very much alive (see our website www.singingtreecafe.com). We want nothing to do with this couple who were our friends and took advantage (and still do) of our goodwill... If you want more details email me I do not wish to have a mud fight in public but it is highly unfair they use our name and pretend they are the direct link/continuance to the Singing Tree Café’s spirit - nothing could be further from the truth. For trees - Michael