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Published: April 4th 2011
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Joff - We travelled from Phnom Penh to Kep via bus and unusually the trip passed without incident. We arrived in Kep which is tiny and incredibly quiet apart from the numerous tuk tuk drivers vying for your attention in the hope that you will select them to take you to a hotel whereby they will get the fare and a backhander for delivering you. Fortunately we had made a reservation on recommendation and had a 100 meter walk to a French guest house overlooking the beach. Kep was formerly a resort for the French but following the revolution has fallen into a state of disrepair where the jungle is reclaiming the ruins of villas and there are only a few guesthouses so locals significantly outnumber westerners. It is famous for the national park which is a mountainous jungle region just behind the strip and a number of islands which can be reached by small boat. The jungles are allegedly full of various animals ranging from monkeys which seem to be everywhere to tigers and elephant which are apparently rarely if ever seen. It gave me the vision of a heard of elephants all tiptoeing around so as not to be
seen by the tourists.
Anyway the first afternoon we went out and hired pushbikes and went to explore the extent of the town which didn't take very long in fairness but we had great views of the islands off the coast and were repeatedly met with greetings from the locals even though they were not trying to sell us anything which was a pleasant change. That evening we elected to go to the crab market for dinner which is another reason why Kep is famous. 1kg of crab cost around a pound so incredibly cheap and delicious. The shacks in which you eat are very basic but have an amazing variety of seafood which comes straight off the boats moored at the back of the restaurant. In spite of the food being cheap the restaurants have realised that tourists tend to like a drop of nice white wine with their seafood and so have pretty extensive but reasonably price wine lists. Much to Caroline's delight we were able to get SB so we opted for a bottle which meant that whilst I wrestled with my crab she would be able to glug wine and eat prawns with impunity!
Having finished our food a French guy who looked so typically French minus the beret and onions, stood up and announced that he has lost his wallet and all donations would be more than welcome. This was a joke, but he pulled out a balloon and blew it up. Caroline started to mock him suggesting that she thought that he would at least be able to make the balloon into an animal or something which was when her bluff was massively called. The guy proceeded to deliver something akin to the French version of a Covent garden street performer. The whole restaurant watched as he made a bunch of flowers for the restaurant owners’ small daughter and a hat. Thinking the show was over but somewhat relieved we started to relax which was the point when the guy seemed to recall that Caroline had been heckling him! Much to her embarrassment and my joy, he started a new show with her as the focus of attention. I was in bits! He made bugs and hearts all for Caroline all whilst flirting in such a slapstick way I was crying with laughter. Anyway on completion of the show were left balloons and all and headed back to the hotel for a nightcap.
The following day we headed to Rabbit Island by boat. As usual I lied to Caroline that it would be a big boat and something of a pleasure cruise. On arriving at the dock we realised that this could not have been further from the truth! We were met by a tiny wooden boat with a driver marginally older than some pairs of pants I own, to take us on the 11 mile sea crossing. It was at this point I started to think that we may be in for a bit of a journey. Along with us there were a couple of folk and a pile of provisions to be taken to the island and 1 lifejacket which was worn by a local woman??? What did she know that we didn't? The driver's lack or experience became apparent as soon as we left or tried to but kept getting smashed against the wooden pier by the waves. Everyone looked slightly uncomfortable but the blokes did the typical I'm not bothered expression as their knuckles visibly whitened as they clutched on to the boat. The journey lasted about half an hour but felt considerably longer as the boat threatened to capsize as every wave hit us side on. Anyway without being sick or drowning we arrived at Rabbit Island, so called as it apparently looked like a rabbit. We could not see this but had visions of a bugs bunny type aerial view. The island was idyllic. It was part volcanic rock with jungle and beaches. There was a route which you could walk about 6 km around it so we decided that we would do this and then go for a massage and some food.
During the walk we stopped off at a deserted beach for a bit of a swim and then continued the walk. It was only when we started climbing boulders and wading through a swamp like area that we realised that perhaps we had gone astray from the usual route. Convinced that it would be just around the next headland we continued only to see more rocks and jungle. This went on for some considerable time until we finally reached our starting point scratched, sweaty and bleeding. What a sight!
We decided that we had done our exercise for the day so had a couple of drinks and went for a massage and had some food. The return trip was without event other than the driver who was marginally more competent than the first not looking where he was going and trying to get the engine to work whilst we headed towards a rocky outcrop at full speed. We narrowly missed this and were dropped off just shy of the pier and had to wade back to land. Caroline being Caroline managed to spot a dead rat floating right by where we were, still we made it!! The following day we were heading back to Phnom Penh early in the morning so took an early bath and went to bed.
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