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Asia » Cambodia » North » Siem Reap
May 28th 2005
Published: January 9th 2009
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Good Morning,

I am in Siem Reap, Cambodia. For those who don't know, this is home to the incredible temples of Angkor. I'm told they're the largest and most impressive religious structures in the world. I'm on my way to see them today. (I've hired a driver to take me!)

So I hop on a little regional jet yesterday in Bangkok and took the 55 minute flight to Siem Reap. My other option was to take a 12 hour (non-air conditioned) bus for about 10 dollars, but I really didn't think that was such a bright idea after stepping off a 14 hour overnight train from the south of Thailand. So, I treated myself. And boy, am I glad I did. I also heard some pretty dodgy stories about that bus ride. I need not worry you with details. I'm here, I'm safe and that's all that matters.

I'm sad tho, because I stupidly forgot to take my swissarmy knife out of my day pack and the security scanners picked it up. I had to donate it to charity or throw it out. Not sure what charity wants knives and things, but whatever.

So, I walk out of the Siem Reap airport -- this is like flying into oh, say, Moncton. Or maybe Sydney. Anyway, I have two options to get to town: a one dollar US motorbike ride (sitting on theh back of the bike while carrying both packs) or a 5 dollar cab ride. For your sake and mine, I chose the cab. 😊

(Side note: the currency is in Riel, and US dollars. 4000 Riel = 1 USD).

I arrive into town, put my stuff in my guest house (7 dollars US/night) and go for a walk. Boy... this place makes Thailand look like a first world country. Sort of. The roads are dusty. Everyone and their dog is riding a bike or a motorbike. Food stalls are everywhere. Not a 7-11 or MacDonald's in sight. It is totally and truly uncommercialized. On the same token, there are GORGEOUS places to eat every 5 steps or so! I mean, nicer places than at home!!?!? For example... I went to a little Vietnemese place for supper last night. I sit down on the outdoor balcony, overlooking the dirty dusty streets and construction workers and the waiter brings me a fresh minty wet face cloth to freshen up with. I order fresh springrolls and a glass of wine (together: 3 dollars US) and he brings me 6 massive rice paper (fresh, not deep fried) vegetarian spring rolls filled with noodles and herbs and tofu and veggies and a ginger sauce. I could only eat three. The service was better than any I've had on this trip -- and at home for that matter. For breakfast this morning, same thing. Fresh minty cloth, fresh orange juice, baguette, mango jam, grilled tomato, omlette and a huge dish of fruit and coffee for 2 dollars. I just don't get it. And I could only eat half. But these lovely restaraunts are directly across the street from young mothers who are feeding their babies on the ground. Families sharing the same plate of noodles on the side of the street. Beggers with missing limbs due to landmines.

Immediately, I noticed how much more friendly the people are here. They smile. All the time. Everyone calls me madame or lady. Sure, they'll ask you for money or ask you to come into their shop, but if you say no, they don't chase you or yell at you or grab you (or scratch your arm and kick you in the bum like one woman did to me at the night bazaar in Chiang Mai!). Young children sell books from little trollies. They have signs that say, "I gave up begging. This is my job." I can appreciate that. One 10-year-old, named Go had me hook, line and sinker. I bought a book on Angkor... because he was so charming.

I've heard that Cambodia is an undiscovered jewel. I'm beginning to see that. Fewer westerners, just the hard core ones. 😊 And already, the people have made it for me.

For instance... yesterday afternoon, I'm walking down this street and I hear a group of children chanting... repeating after someone. They're speaking English, I think. So, I walk into what appears to be a little schoolyard to have a look. I was right. A group of children were learning English on a Saturday afternoon in the schoolhouse. Not 2 minutes later, the headmaster man approaches me... He asks me where I'm from. He then said, "I have a meeting with the governer of this province at 6 pm, and I need someone to take over an English class. Can you do it?!" Huh?!? He wanted me to teach English to a group of teens at the intermediate level?!!!? I don't believe it. I shake my head and laugh in disbelief...pause... and say sure. So, here I am, on my first day in Siem Reap teaching English in some random school house! We talked about Canada, (many had never heard of it) and we talked about my journey to Asia, the flights, the stopovers, where I plan to go, what culture is like in Canada, the seasons, holidays... I drew pictures on the black board of snowmen (which they thought were hysterical) among other things. It was so strange... they asked me the most interesting questions, like 'How can I grow up to raise good children?' (how the hell am I supposed to know!?!?) and 'if children grow up and go to university and get jobs and move away from their families, who takes care of the parents and grandparents when they get old?' Try explaining that one to people who live with 3 and 4 generations... They also told me I was very lucky to be able to travel and see the world. I certainly am.

What a bizarre and wonderful world we live in.

No Tim, the dive instructors were not Asian. One was British, the other South African. Thanks for the notes... you had me in convulsions in this little shop.... 😊 Keep it up. Please keep yourself out of trouble in Sprytown... 😉

As for a map, well, I think there's a little map at the bottom of this page. If not, you can always google Siem Reap and maps and it will show you where I am.

I'm sorry about the lack of photos, internet is slow as cold molasses here... but I will try!

Love to all. xo

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29th May 2005

Hey. i just tried to add a comment but soemthing happened..maybe i'm repeating myself but oh well..have fun and be careful..YOu are having some pretty crazy adventures in true kelly fashion..I love you and miss you...wedding plans are slow but steady..I'll keep you posted. - rox
30th May 2005

Hey Girl...It is so great to read your stories. I always did like they way you capture the moment in words and in photos. Keep the stories and photos coming. Miss you.....Liz :-) - Liz

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