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Published: March 22nd 2017
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In Siem Reap I had heard of a boat trip you can take on Tonle Sap Lake, the largest in SE Asia, and eventually following Tonle Sap river downstream to Battambang about seven hours away to the South. Since my eventual destination is Phnom Penh this seemed like a fun way to cover some distance to my eventual arrival in the capital of the country. So for $20 I signed up for the boat ride and made my way to the docks about 6km south of the Siem Reap city centre.
The boat journey would take me through some beautiful wetlands and an ever changing river system. The bird life here was extensive and incredible. You can learn a lot about your life by bird watching. Sounds strange, but don't knock it until you try it. At some points the river was extremely wide, and at others so narrow that I was not sure that we would be able to make it through. As I've stated before, I really enjoy traveling by boat. It is so very peaceful and relaxing to be alone in your thoughts as the banks of the river pass by. At some points we would come
across floating villages full of smiling children waving to me and my fellow passengers sitting on top of our vessel. It amazes me that these people live their entire lives on the river. Their homes float on the water and everyone commutes by boat to the floating markets, restaurants, or supply shops that dot the town. A completely different way of life.
At some points the river became so overgrown with vegetation it looked as though we were no longer on water. The engine churned, chopped, and cut our way through the growth and we plowed on. Sitting on the roof of the boat, I was afforded the best views, but the heat was very intense. Cambodia has a different kind of heat. I cannot really explain it, but it is by far the hottest country I have been in.
Overall a fun trip down the river to our eventual destination of Battambang. Battambang is an old French colonial city and the French influence is ever present in the crumbling buildings. The town itself is very sleepy and quiet. Once the sun goes down, the streets empty out and not much of anything is happening. I met a
nice Swiss girl, Isabel, on the boat and we decided to rent a motobike the next day to explore some of the sights around the area. We rode through the chaotic Cambodian highways and visited a couple temples. Some old, and some new, but both on the perch of high mountains that gave a great view of the flatness that is most of the Cambodian countryside.
At one of the temple sites their is a cave notoriously known as the "Killing Cave". Here at this spot I got my first glimpse into the brutality and madness of the Khmer Rouge. In order to save ammunition the Khmer Rouge soldiers would bludgeon people in the back of the head and push them off a 300 foot cliff into the cave below. The terrible energy of this place was palpable. I could not stay here long amongst the bones and rotten clothing of the dead. I certainly felt no need to photograph the dead like some French tourists I saw here. These people were murdered. Show some respect. I've been thinking of my eventual trip to Phnom Penh and dealing with and learning about the history that unfolded here back in
the 70's. When you look around Cambodia there are no old people anywhere. Everyone is young. I know the reason behind this - genocide. I've not ever been in a country where something like this has taken place (well, my own country is debatable with the Native Americans) and I'll have to come to grips with this during my visit to the capital five hours to the South.
I have a strange feeling about myself as I head South to Phnom Penh. History has been a large influence in my travels and Cambodia has a dark and storied one to say the least. Considering how recent terrible events took place here, I'm not really sure how to deal or process the thoughts and emotions that lay within my head. I ger the sense that the country is still in a healing process and I remain reserved in my interaction with the locals. I continue South.
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