Travelling the Tonle Sap

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Boating our way to Battambang

Leaving the grace and beauty of Siem Reap behind, we headed towards the provincial town of Battambang. The boat ride between Siem Reap and Battambang was purported to be one of the most scenic in Cambodia and thankfully, unlike our experience in Ratanikiri, the boats were still plying these waters.

As the dry season advances, journeys along this stretch of the Tonle Sap become increasingly difficult. The Tonle Sap floods during the wet season, creating a vast expanse of water that slowly seeps away when the rains cease. Late December wasn’t too far into the dry season, but even then we were given a taste of how difficult navigating the waters can become.

It was a rewarding ride, despite the absolute lack of comfort (sixteen of us packed into a boat for ten, with packs and bags wedged between feet and legs, sat upon wooden benches along each side - one of which (ours) was in the blazing sun for the entire eight-hour journey). Our boat forced its way through narrow waterways, flanked on either side by mangroves, waxy green-leafed shrubs and water lilies. Should a boat come the other way it was a squishy, tight passing, with both boat drivers easing and squeezing until we were safely on the other side.

Intermittently the vegetation would clear and reveal a wider waterway, with a village clustered on each side. People make their lives on and around the river with floating houses and shops secured to one another, while others make their homes and businesses on boats. Children rushed to their front porches to wave and shout hello, while their mothers and aunts bemusedly watched on.

As we neared Battambang these floating villages gave way to homes perched on the river’s banks, which grew in quiet abundance until we arrived at the town. Battambang is a more bustling town than Kratie, but maintains its sleepy feel. A few days soaking in the relaxed atmosphere and exploring on foot was enough for us before returning to Phnom Penh and readying ourselves for our return to Vietnam.

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Photos

Forgotten canoe
Somewhere on the Tonle Sap.

Narrow passage
It was often a tight squeeze to pass other boats, or even just to get up a passage hemmed in by vegetation.

Colourful house
A shop-cum-house.

Village
Clutches of villages are dotted along the river, only at places wide enough to allow other vessels to pass by.

Another Cambodian sunset
From the rooftop bar of our guesthouse in Battambang.