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Window to Angkor Wat
Much like our photos of the Taj - its impossible to get a photo of Angkor without people in it - especially through doorways. Yesterday, as we were arriving at Rosy's Guesthouse, we were approached by a guy with a moto-romauk/tuk-tuk (motorbike trailer) who wanted to take us around the temples. We knew that it would be hard to see all the temples without some form of transport and it was too hot to rent a bike! So we decided to go with this guy for 3 days, at about 13 US dollars a day.
We got up today to leave around 8am. Vanny, our moto-ramauk guide was waiting and we set off. We purchased a three day pass to all the temples (this was forty US dollars (20 for 1 day, 60 for seven days), you needed a passport photo each to get it too - and we are starting to see that making sure you have a ready supply of passport photos at all times is a good idea...
First stop Angkor Wat, the world famous temple which everyone has heard of (and in many cases the only one they are aware of), constructed in the early to mid 12th centuary. At first, you can only see the wall but as we drove towards it we got a full view
Passage Ways
There are lots of them in all the temples - not just Angkor. Unfortunately for Aristi, she never quite managed to lose me. of the temple - brilliant. For those of you who want a bit of history, Angkor means "Capital City" or "Holy City". Angkor Wat is surrounded by a moat, a front and rear gated wall (may surround it all but can't see for the trees) and a 3 tiered 'pyramid' type structure crowned by 5 lotus like towers rising sixty five meters from ground level. If you are only going to see one temple whilst in siem reap then this is the one to see (based on the first day of looking - the guidebooks all say this too!).
It is as impressive as people say, but the temples are very weather worn, they make an incredible impact and there is enough detail preserved in places to be able to reconstruct a mental image of some level of the splendor of the place during the height of the Khymer empire. Also fun, and involving almost certain peril, were the ridiculously steep stairs (if you can call them that) to each successive level of the inner temple. There are copious disclaimer signs (you climb at your own risk) everywhere, which adds to the sense of adventure.
The view at
India/Hindu esque Architecture
The temples in Angkor are largely inspired by Hinduism (with Buddhism also a strong influence) and in some places its difficult not to see familarities with Indian Architecture - here the Tiger Fort in Agra jumps to mind. Squared courtyards with pillared supports... the top is worth the climb, and Aristi (when reaching the top tier) pronounced "You know, I really hadn't thought about how I am going to get down when I started climbing up". We got back to Vanny and Aristi (in her own words) had wobbly knees.
Vanny then set off towards the South gate. Not the one managing Middlesborough, but of the wall of the moated royal city of Angkor Thomb. It was constructed in the early 13th centuary, and was the last capital of the Angkorian empire. After Jayavarman the 7th recaptured the Angkorian capital in 1181 from the Cham invaders. At roughly the centre within the walls is the Bayon Temple, constructed in the late 12th centuary. This is probably the second most famous temple, mainly because of the huge person sized (i.e. bigger than Beedge) stone carved faces set into various parts of the architecture of the temple. Although heavily weather (perhaps more than Angkor Wat) it is clear just how incredibly ornate it would have been in its prime and it still makes a tremendous impact. The faces stare back in much the same way I imagine that the huge heads on Easter Island
Horses
Thousands of tourist visitors to Angkor each year are actually horses. Apparently the grass at Angkor is really really good. do.
It was constructed over a whole centuary (apparently) which is not difficult to believe. Although it is fairly compact compared to all the other temples, its grandure comes from its intricacy and its uniqueness (especially to the western eye).
We left Angkor Thom (after a walk next to the 'Terrace of Elephants' - not real ones (we passed _these_ on the way in!). The terrace is a long stretch of about man high wall with reliefs of elephants carved into the solid stone. We also passed by Baphuon temple, currently being renovated. Its a huge temple mountain largely collapsed and in ruinous conditions, but outside a large sign indicated that the temple was being renovated, with the renovation being funded by the french government. Presumably, this is actually linked to some sort of governmental loan against future reciepts, but its good to see this sort of renovation going on, both for people like us that want to come and for Cambodia. Its amazing to think that just a couple of decades ago this country was on its knees following Pol Pots mad political ideas and the subsequent vietnamese invasion and years of guerilla warfar being waged by
Die at your peril
Legal disclaimers are grrreat. Pot from his hideouts in the west.
From the Terrace of Elephants (and the tourist loos!) we exited Angkor Thom via the victory gate, stopped briefly at Thommanom and Chau Say Thevoda Temples. Much smaller, but similar architecture features and different variations - or rather, same same but different.
Next stop Ta keo. A late 10th, early 11th century plainly decorated temple mountain dedicated to Shiva (the hindu God of destruction). It was apparently first to be constructed entirely of sandstone. I can't remember much about it, but I think it was a temple.
We then went to Ta Prohm, unique in that it was like a nini jungle....intentionally left partially unrestored, massive fig and silk-cotton trees grow from the towers and corridors - a really impressive sight.
Final stop was Banteay Kdei, a monastic complex much the same as Ta Prohm.
The day was very good, but I can understand when people say one can get temple overload.
We had a chat with our driver, Vanny, when we stopped for a drink. Note to Beedge - you still have to expand this section! 😊
I forgot to mention, at nearly every temple
Stairs
Yes - these are stairs, they aren't a new part of an Angkor based assault course. we stopped at, we were bombarded by people who wanted us to buy something, both adult and children, but the children followed you round. The children were really persistent at times but we did not feel too uncomfortable, they did it in a nice way. We ended up having a chat with some of these children and gave them some English and Thai coins which they seemed really interested in..until they started to try and sell things to us again!
Tonight we are going to see a traditional Apsara dance, along with a buffet meal - hopefully it will be good. Vanny will be coming to pick us up. Although he is expensive, it is a good way to get to see everything in a short space of time.
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