Advertisement
Published: September 29th 2005
Whilst travelling, I've often sat in awe of travellers that have changed their itineries in order to be lazy, see more, or be with new friends. I usually find it quite difficult to change the plans I've made in my head as the domino effect is too much for my brain. HOWEVER, my time in Cambodia and with the gang I've met in Siem Reap has changed that. What's a weeks' difference within a year of travelling? I'm still learning the ins and outs of maximising the joys of life on the road. Soooooooo, I've not quite spead off to Vietnam and have instead joined Hester on an extended few days in Cambodia.
From Siem Reap we boarded a bus to Kopang Chum. It was a straight road that gave us a view of many rice fields, pigs sleeping at the side of the road and diving out of a few cows' paths. Lots of conversation and basically, a very pleasant bus journey. Even more enjoyable when a local decided to buy us lunch!!
Upon arriving in Kopang Chum, we boarded a couple of motos that drove in a few circles to make the distance seem further,
then charged doube when we arrived at the hotel. We managed to get a free ride arranged for the next day when they realized we weren't that stupid. Time for a little chill out and then we began the tour of the town. This isn't a huge tourist town, usually just a stop gap for travellers going north or south. The one 'attraction' written in the guide books is the 'Friendship Bridge' built by the Japanese in just 2002. Because of the expanse of the copper brown Mekong River, the bridge is a large sturdy feature that many use as transport and some just use as a social gathering. Hester and I brought a little entertainment to the passing crowds when we found an unusual angle to take photos with a memorial in the background.
As within the other Asian places travelled to, children find their way in front of the camera over and over. Some of the kids are shy, and others begin breakdancing and pulling faces to be the center stage. Their smiles can fill any heart with such a happy feeling, but they can also break a heart when understanding their living situation. Selling anything
and everything, living in a carboard house, and/or searching for food when the westerners have their plates half full. I have to be reminded that living standards here are different to mine, but it is still sometimes hard to face. If my dad had ever cought me roaming the streets at 3am at 10 years old, I don't think I would be travelling the world today! He might have caught me as a teenager-but that was different, it was age to be naughty!!
Hester and I made our way over to the local market and ordered a noodle dish to fill our tummies. Unfortunetly, there was something about the meat that neither of us could quite stomach, so we walked away still rather hungry. We stopped to look at some of the fruits that don't normally reach our local supermarkets and were faced with a tasting of several unusual colours and shapes from a grinning Cambodian lady with no teeth. Funny how fruits can be too sweet and too smelly at times! We ended up buying a familiar couple of apples and a few other simple fruits and continued our tour through the market. When my eye cought
a woman in front of a rotating disc with a coconut shell, I heard the words of my Battambang cooking teacher come out of my mouth. I hope Hester was impressed with my 'local knowledge'! We bought a few chunks and managed to negotiate a decent price before making our way over to the juice seller. I had had a chance to try sugercane and lime juice when I was touring through Zanzibar, and it was with pleasure to consume again. The long stalks are squeezed through the steel press as the seller turns an ornate steering wheel on the side. Finally adding a big squeeze of lime, the juice was poured into a plastic baggie. With a chunk of ice and a straw, Hester and I finallymanaged to fill our tummies!!
We continued the walking tour and saw a few lads playing with a Cambodian hackisack. Not quite a rounded ball of beads, but a plastic stalk with a feather in it, but certainly the same game of kicking it around a small circle. Having walked a couple of loops, we had covered most of town so we settled down to our usual routine of having a
"Eating" the Memorial
An afternoon of great hilarity experimenting with photosfew beers at dinner followed by kicking eachothers butts with a few games of cards.
The next leg of the trip began mid morning on a bus north towards Kratie. There were several arguments over seating arrangements and I filled with much dread when I saw the plastic stools being placed in the middle of the aisle. Luckily, we just had to climb over everbody to our reserved comfort near the back. As we then drove across the Friendship bridge, we discovered the the river had no boundaries on the other side. Water swelled underneath the trees and all families benefited from the high stilts that their houses sat on. The 'front water lawns' certainly created a different look than that in the west.
When the bus pulled into Kratie, we follwed word of mouth advertising for a big cheap hotel just a few steps away. It felt like a 5 star hotel in comparison to the last few months! I suppose the advantage of some small tourist towns, is that they have the time and space to encourage more tourism. How on earth our room still only cost us $1.50 each is beyond me!! After
dumping our bags we were quick to arrange the afternoon activities, and seeing the fresh water dolphins is what everybody comes to Kratie for. After sitting on a bus the day previous and for the entire morning, what better way to revitalize the senses than to board a boat. The 15 km. moto ride towards the dolphins was worth every penny. The straight road gave us a peek into houses, the shops, the fishing rituals, the childrens playtime and local livestock. I was glad to feel so rewarded from just the moto ride. We then boarded the boat to cruise the shoreline and across the flooded waters to the dolphin hotspot. A splash in the distance cought our eye and we had officially seen our first dolphin. I was lucky to have read other travelblogs to have learned that these dolphins are not like the salt water version in that they don't jump and frolic beside the boat. Their colouring is a much brighter blue, although it's usually only during the dry season that you might catch a close enough glimpse of this. We saw several more splashes and a few nosetips poking out of the rushing water, and then
we made our way back to the base. Partly because of the moto ride and the beautiful sunset we saw on the way back, the day was a great success. Although, others seemed to be disappointed. I guess I'm lucky to not be travelling with them!
As if we hadn't had enough of bus journeys in the last few days, we boarded a bus back down to Phnom Penh in the early hours. I hadn't intended on returning to Cambodia's capital city, but as I had been in such a hungover state during my previous visit, I suppose it was worth a little exploration! We stayed at a guest house just a few doors from where I had previously been. A little walk through town and I then had the chance to fill in Hester on the joys of swinging in a hammock. Aaaaaaaaaggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhh, a beer in hand and the cards are on the table. Back to the good 'ol life! Just before getting back to the door of our room, we were forced to hit the deck. A fit of giggles followed of course, but the bat that was swooping in front of us put visions of
Dracula in my head. Listening to the Magnum PI soundtrack brought us back to our senses, although there were more fits of giggles!!
In the morning we made our way over to the Russian Market. Having heard so much about it, I was slightly dissappointed as it didn't seem very different from every other market. And then we saw it. Sister's Coffee shop along the outskirts opposite the DVD's has the best brownies in Cambodia! So the trip was worth it after all! After fueling up we walked passed another temple, took a few photos and continued our walk over to Tuol Sleng Museum, also known as Security Prison 21 during the Pol Pot era.
We arrived just in time to watch a movie explaining a bit more of this tragic period within Cambodian history. The interviews were very honest and stirred emotions of most viewers. The museum grounds that we were in had originally been a high school, but in 1975 Pol Pot took over and it became the largest detention and torture center within the country. We walked through the old classrooms and saw an artists' impressions and written summaries explaining the paintings. This
Kratie
En route to the dolphins artist had been a prisoner, but guards took him aside and preserved his life if he agreed to document his surroundings. They certainly weren't pieces to be hung above the fireplace, but from them generations are now learning what even their families had to deal with. Perhaps most stirring are the black and white head shots that guards took to document the number of people being carted off to the Killing Fields. As these people stared at death in the face some had looks of anger, others confusion and yet others just numb. Pol Pot caused so much pain and it's hard to comprehend why. 17 000 men, women and children were tortured at S21 before heading off to the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek. Wearing glasses was just one of the reasons for a life to be taken. I'm glad I've had the opportunity to meet Cambodians and see the land before learning the details of their past. Then scars will always be there, but they are slowly regaining their place in the world.
The following morning we shared a moto to the Killing Fields. Although it completes the end of the story of the Cambodians from
S21, I didn't see or learn anything that the museum had shown me. Although, I was there. I saw the clothing and bones poking out of various pits within the grounds. I saw the 8000 skulls arranged by sex and age within the Memorial Stupa. And now it's time for me to move on too.
We walked back into town for a final exploration. The joys of travelling with somebody are emphasized all along the way as Hester and I walked to areas that neither of us would have gone to had the other not been there. Avoiding some of the flash rains, we had a beer and a game of cards at a restaurant on the edge of the reclaimed lands. The waiting staff within the restaurant crowded around our table to watch us compete in yet another game of cards. Are we that amusing to them? A bit of a squeeze on my arm followed by a squeeze on my calf was enough confirmation that they hadn't quite dealt with a big white girl before! Luckily, a lot of laughter kept us smiling even as we walked out the door.
The surrounding area developed
Kratie Boat
Looking for dolphins into a Cambodian theme park, mostly for children with flying elephants and pop the balloon stands. It then started to change into a place with just a few hammocks hanging. 'Just a few hammocks' doesn't quite give the right impression actually. Shall I say, 75 hammocks in each section, and there was a row of about 15 sections! The saying, 'Same Same But Different' is used frequently here, and in this situation is would be hard to find the different. Actually, in most Cambodian shops and food stalls, they're all the same same! I think the next Cambodian business person that really does take on the 'different' in their business, should be a raving success.
So that's my second visit to PP, and my final time in Cambodia. It's been filled with snorkelling at the beach, cooking up a yummy storm, historical beauty in the temples, natural wonder with the flooded waters, many laughters over beers and cards, and more of an understanding of a brutal political history affecting the people. My extra time here has allowed me to do an entire loop within the country. Which now makes this country, the first that I feel as though
Lookin Out
Hester taking in the day I don't need to see more of right away. For now anyway, as I know there's alot more out there that I want to see.
Onto country number 12: Vietnam. Soon to be followed by Laos, a very brief stay in Thailand and Singapore, and then Australia and New Zealand. Isn't time flying? I know I'm flying through everything, but time flies too! Thanks for the supportive emails and comments all, it really is what keeps me going!!
-Fiona
Advertisement
Tot: 0.059s; Tpl: 0.014s; cc: 14; qc: 23; dbt: 0.0274s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Ian and Katie
non-member comment
Reply from Paris
Hi Fiona, Still following your travels only this time we are travelling also. Tomorrow we go to Joigny to board our canal boat. All is well with us. We will drop in via French internet cafes from time to time. Love Ian and Mom