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Published: October 8th 2008
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We arrived in Yangon by an early morning flight with Air Asia. The landscape looked beautiful after the rainy season with many green rice fields and a lot of water in between. I had been in Myanmar 6 years ago and liked a lot the special atmosphere in this country due to the political, but also geographical isolation. Friends that traveled here recently warned me of the changed mood after the September events and the growing frustration of the people. A second reason to come was a meeting with the Vice-Chairman of the Myanmar Tourism Promotion Board. My caver friend Michael had made a first contact at the International Tourist Fair in Berlin (ITB) and I was now in Rangoon to discuss a caving expedition next January. I was excited to meet some medium-high level people in the government and to get a glance of the organization that runs this country in a very controlled way.
The first strange thing is when you arrive in Yangon airport and went through immigration that there are no banks to change money. There is only one lonely money changer identified by one small sign sitting strategically positioned on a plastic chair between the
ladies and gents toilet. Fortunately you can pay the taxi in US$ as almost everywhere in the country. There is a very strict economical embargo of the USA and the EU on Myanmar and no international bank and credit card companies exists. It means you need cash in US$ or at least Euro. There are no ATM’s or banks and credit card is accepted only by companies with international ties. We heard of one almost invisible bank that is allowed to change money and even hotels are not official legalized. Nevertheless it is possible to change at hotels using the indirect service of a bell boy that commutes between you in the lounge and reception desk while negotiating the exchange rate into Kyat.
We had a bumby ride in a shaky 20 year old taxi from the airport into town, some frustrations with smelly hotels until we found a private well run home stay guesthouse in one of the best areas of Yangon. The service was unbelievable as most of the times we stayed in guesthouses. The daughter of the house would wait to see us of and stay up until late to receive us and to make sure
we are well. A full breakfast in Myanmar at 5 AM in the morning is well within the acceptable time since all transport starts early and the full service is provided. Myanmar people are very caring and we could not believe the hospitality we received. Later we also understood that people are desperately waiting for tourists to arrive.
The time in Yangon went fast. We visited the famous Shewadgon pagoda with its many golden Stupas and Buddhas. The pictures attached speak for themselves and the great evening atmosphere. We ventured a little bite in night life and discovered a live music club called Mr. Guitar with some local bands on. Yangon looks crumbling down on not maintained streets and decaying walls, but behind extremely well kept individual buildings can be found. Life seems here to be behind the scenes as public life is not easy under the current conditions. We found the music club only by Taxi and walked down a dimly lit path in a garden area. We wanted already to return, but luckily pushed open the door of one of the dark buildings and a big hall with seats, stage and a well run air conditioned bar suddenly
materialized.
Next morning we wandered through the busy streets of Yangon with street vendors and sometimes posh shops next to crumbling buildings. There is an attitude of Indian style mixed with international blend and unique Myanmar behavior. This is what fascinates. The culture has an own identity rooting in Indian and Southeast-Asian culture. The meeting at the Myanmar Promotion Tourism Board went well. People were open and interested in our project to survey caves for the use of ecotourism. But as everything is this country approval from central authorities in the remote new capital is necessary. Strangely we were asked if the embassy in Germany made any problems for the Visa. Later we heard from many travelers that the Visa has some hurdles of not responsiveness and slowness that contributes to a virtually empty country of tourists after the Nargis taifun in May. One restaurant owner in the tourist attraction of ancient capital of Bangan remarked: “Bagan is empty of tourists and I have only 1-3 guests per day. Some time none, but Yangon is doing well with all the help organizations clearing up the taifun destructions.”
Joerg
Practicalities:
Visa Myanmar Embassy Berlin 25 Euro
Air
Asia Flight Bangkok-Yangon 40 Euro
Mid range guesthouse 25-35 US$
Entrance Schewadgon pagoda 10 US$
Taxi mid distance 2000 - 3000 Kyat
Myanmar buffet (2person) around 10.000 Kyat
1 bottle beer 1200-1500 Kyat
Exchange: 1 Euro = 1600 Kyat
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