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Published: December 16th 2006
Myanmar - Yangon
Shewdagon Paya - The moon rises above the impressive structureAs our trip comes to a close, we try and squeeze in one final country - the wonderful, the mysterious Myanmar.
Now Myanmar, or Burma to many Westerners, has been in the clutches of a military regime since the late 80s when the first democratically elected leader came to power for only a brief split-second before the army came crashing in and has held her under house arrest for the last 18 years odd. Not a great first impression on the place, especially as you then continue to read about the ongoing elimination of many minority groups throughout the country and the hundreds of refugees that continue to flood across the Thai border. Top this off with guerilla warfare on the fringes of the country and the overly scrutinized internet access that all information must pass through (Gasp - will this blog even make it at all??!!) and it is hard for people not to wonder why on earth we, like many other travellers, have made the effort to come here.
Now, without wanting to go into the well-versed "it's such an untouched, pure culture man.." conversation that is hypocrytically spoked by many backpackers that try and find that
Myanmar - Yangon
"We're Millionaires I tells you!" 'untouched' experience that hasn't been tainted by tourism and western values, yet in the process do so themselves as they trek through villages and hand out pens and candy to children; we came here because the people are renowned as one of the most friendly, hospitable, and open group found within the region. We came because the images we've seen have been stunning, and because, hey lets face it, we know relatively little about the place and we are all victims to curiousity and intrigue.
So without too much more rambling (ha! I hear you say) let us share with you our journeys.... (crikey Nunny's on a high horse today)
DAY ONE - 28TH NOV - YANGON We arrive at the dusty ol' "International Yangon Airport" (similar feeling to that of Griffith, or Orange or some other small Australian Country town). Nothing too spectacular to report. No heavily armed soldiers, just a very long immigration line after walking across the tarmac, and an honesty system to check yourself in to Quarantine if you have recently suffered Yellow Fever. Massive contrast to Bangkok's new airport, which in appearances alone can be more aptly described as a space station.
Myanmar - Yangon
SHEWDAGON PAYA - Nunny wishing at her Tiger b'day temple We are met by a few local touts - not really trying too hard to get business really - and decide to jump on the free ride into town to the Motherland Inn II. This is agreat choice for anyone heading to Yangon. Wonderful hospitality, clean affordable rooms, and a huge breakfast with never-ending supply of coffee.
The ride in saw a nice change of pace from Thailand. We're back to appalling roads (much to our relief believe it or not) and crazy 20 - 30 year old taxis that are mostly Carolla station wagons and have all got that smell of long car trips, and little suspension. Just like travelling with your mates back home. The city has a fair bit of greenery, and hosts 2 massive lakes that the locals enjoy walking around. Everyone is wearing the Longgy (like a sarong, but worn as skirt) both men and women, and there's a lovely feel of being calm, relaxed, noone trying too hard to impress one another.
We enjoy our complimentary breakfast then quite lazily retire to bed as we had only an hour or so sleep the night before after flying up from Krabi, arriving
Myanmar - Yangon
SHEWDAGON PAYA - Richards follows suit in Bangkok and sorting out all our loose ends before having to leave at 4am for our flight to Yangon. (Enough justifications?) But after a refreshing kip, we decide to hit the highlight of the city first -the SHEWDAGON PAYA - the most massive pagoda complex we've ever seen, rising 98m high above the land, and covered in layer upon layer of gold leaf, crowned with a spire hosting more than 5000 diamonds and 2000 other precious stones.
This place truly is beautiful. Within the complex there are another 82 buildings and temples, and we timed ourselves nearly perfectly to get there for the sunset. As we climb the stairs upwards through the North gate we hit our first sales scam of kids trying to sell us plastic bags to put our shoes in - as noone can wear shoes in the temples throughout the whole country, quite a nice feeling really. They wouldn't let us give them back to them once we understood that it was going to cost us bucks, but we figured we could out-smart them and continued up the sheltered colonade passing shops selling religious icons and paraphanalia and admired the teak wood construction and
Myanmar - Yangon
SHEWDAGON PAYA in all it's glory carvings of the life of Buddha.
We decided to take a guide - Lilly - around the complex as Nunny had some burning questions to ask about Buddhism, and it seemed taht there was a lot more to see here than what we may discover just walking around ourselves.
Firstly we find out that according to Myanmar astrology, the two of us are born on Mondays, which has symbol of the Tiger as our animal. Lilly takes us to the small Monday temple - the first of the 7 days of the week - and we are instructed on the ritual of pouring three cups of water over a statue of Buddha, three on a statue of a monk, and three on the head of a tiger figure where we then wish or pray for something important and our prayers will be heard. (see pic) Naturally we couldn't tell each other what our wish was, 'cos then it wouldn't come true.
As the changing light reflected off the giant paya it was hard not to be awestruck along with the other pilgrims and visitors to the site. Such a lovely feeling to the place, and yet you
Myanmar - Yangon
Shewdagon Paya - Buddha meets Vegas somehow feel guilty as it was built by the government, and worth more than you could possible imagine, while like other SE Asian countries, people cannot afford to go to school, and cannot seek free medical treatment. But it is a thing of true beauty and it is an easy place to sit and contemplate life, and listen to the birds sing their songs in the surrounding trees as the sun retires.
After the majority of Michelle's buddhist questions were answered - and hey, did you know that there has actually been 4 buddhas??!! - we leave Lilly, and make a crafty exit down a back set of stairs to avoid the plastic-bag selling kids. Me he he hee, suckers.
It was time for dinner though, and we decide to head for the spectacular floating restaurant on Kandawgyi Lake that we saw on the way in from the airport. As we aimlessly started walking in the complete opposite direction we are picked up by a super helpful taxi driver that assures us that we'd much prefer the "Power Light Restaurant" on the banks of the lake where the locals go to hang out and the food is much
Shewdagon Paya
The giant bell we both had a crack and banging on. If only I thought to bring my giant drum as well! better and cheaper.
Sounds good to us.
We arrive and are served by 5 waiters that hover over us in that obsessively attentive style that makes me nervous, and we order a feast. Thankfully the over attentive head waiter for our section saw our oversight and quicky corrected our order, bringing out only one of the two 20 litres bowls of soup we had asked for, and thankfully neglected to bring out the rice as well.
But as amazing as the service was, it was the RSL-esque display of entertainment that took the cake. This place was huge, could easily seat 500 patrons, and in the centre was a stage and protruding catwalk runway that was soon to be filled with professional and semi-professional female singers with hair down to the calves in some cases belting out the best of Myanmar love songs. Similar to karaoke in Vietnam, there was a whole stall of flowers and feather boas that one could buy and send up to the stage as a show of adoration - or in some cases it seemed to be that of encouragement.
We were rapped. Not only were they accompanied by a master
Shewdagon Paya
A photo of a photo of the top of the paya - check out the jewels in that thing! synth player that could rip out any instrument on his keyboard, but to break up the singers they then had some risque dancers that would swing from jazz aerobics style to gyrating sauciness while the Burmese men clapped in appreciation. Twas a fun night in all, and as per usual our mere presence sent ripples through the locals.
We head home through the very quiet streets of Yangon - it appears all closes down by 9pm - and are content to have a quiet beer at Motherland and a game of cards.
DAY TW0 - 30TH NOV - YANGON Enjoying another fab breakie with our favourite waiter Jo Jo, who continues to sneak us never-ending coffees, we decide to have a walk around town to check out the down town area.
First off, the pavements here are ever local council's worst nightmare. Incredible. So after both of us stubbing our toes within the first 5 mins, we hobble closer to the centre of things heading along what seems to be "Nuts and bolts" street which were the only products for sale in this area. We are greeted so warmly by everyone, and not because they want to
Shewdagon Paya
Nunny can't help but grin at the serenity... and the gold ;) sell us a spanner, but because they are genuinely nice and see foreigners so in frequently.
The pavements are crowded, and the demoraphic has changed a great deal. I can't possible tell you what the 'typical' face of Myanmar looks like. There are so many different shades of colour, of bone structure and you start to have an Indian and Sri Lankan influence here both in foods, dress and appearance.
We hit the first tourist attraction. Another golden stupa that acts like a giant roundabout, while nearby the remains of Britain's Colonial rule still stand. After stopping in at the nearest Tourist centre and deciding we really didn't want to spend US$5 on visiting a Gem museum we head for the tallest building in Rangoon - a dizzying height of 20 stories.
On top of this feat in architecture we find ourselves at a swuave cafe/restaurant and we indulge in a set menu, relax in the air conditioning comfort and look down upon the capital city. Pagodas can be seen left, right and centre, and it is easy to ignore the hustle and bustle of street vendours, strange smelling food and cries from hawkers selling their wares.
Shewdagon Paya
The terraced walkways leading up to the paya Plus as an added bonus, Nunny did get to catch up on all the hollywood gossip in the MyanMar Times - the countries "First Intenational Newspaper".
We wander home through the colonial section stopping to look at the Strand Hotel - the first hotel in the country, founded in the 1800s by the British - and continue homewards in the dying sunlight accompanied to friendly calls of "Ming ga la Ba!" and grinning faces.
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Kiwi Mark
non-member comment
Still going!!!!
Hey Guys! Can't believe you buggers are still on the road. I'm very jealous. I've been back in NZ for 3 months now. Even got a job. First time I've worked since leaving the UK 19 months ago. Managed to find a restaurant here in Auckland that sells Chang and Beer Lao so it's not all bad. Think you've convinced me I need to get back to China for another look around. And I miss the Thai beaches!!!!!!! Found a card in my wallet the other day for the Sihom Guest House in Champasak. Still think that was the funniest night of my whole trip. Been a long time since I laughed that hard :-) Keep the journals coming!