VISA RUN RANONG TO BURMA

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An early rise in the morning and off I was to make my first visa run to Myanmar (Burma). Visas in Thailand need to be renewed every 30 days to avoid steep fines. My two friends, Hayden and Cynthia, had made this trip once before, so having them as companions was a true asset. The road from Khao Lak to Ranong, Thailand is about 180 kilometers (112 miles) and the road is no different than any other road here: two lanes and filled with scooters and slow-moving trucks. As we set off on our day trip, the light traffic allowed us to enjoy the beautiful surroundings of tropical hillsides and majestic mist-covered peaks. It was what you always expected to see in Thailand. The drive lasted nearly three hours, buzzing past scooters laden with two, three and often four passengers. Without mirrors, the scooter drivers didn't always know we were coming up on their tails, and dodging them was tricky when we encountered oncoming traffic. I don't think there was a straight path of road that was longer than half a kilometer.

Once in the town of Ranong, a port city of mostly fishing vessels and scattered shops (population by my own estimations at 50,000) we had to make our way to the immigration office to secure a proper departure from Thailand. Since we had left early in the morning, no one was waiting in line and we were in and out in less than 5 minutes. Once back outside, we were approached by a few men 'selling' crisp American 5-dollar bills, a necessity as you must pay with this money (and only a US $5 bill) to the Burmese immigration officials before entering their port. The $5 bill cost us 300 Thai baht, or $7US. Pretty much a good scam going and I really wonder who is getting the proceeds. Likely both Thai and Myanmar governments, with a small percentage going to the vendor. Such is the way, so we had to make the purchase, or not make it across the border.

A short drive to the port and now it was time to board a longtail boat for the 20-minute ride to the Burmese port, which could be seen from the docks. We loaded up with some snacks and a soda for the ride. The port town was quite busy as longtails and fishing vessels muscled their way into mooring positions and to take on the onslaught of passengers. For some, it took walking across multiple boats to get to the one they were to take across the straight of water to Burma. Our captain was a middle-aged man and was pleasant and happy we had chosen his vessel. The ride will soon cost us $2.50 round-trip each. It’s another form of entertainment and travel experience for the farangs (foreigners) but to them just another method of transportation and a way to make their living. These are not tourist rides. Burmese will take this trip to work in Thailand each day, as the wages are far better here.

Once across the bay, our boat captain had to stop at the Burmese immigration which was a simple concrete structure jutting out from a hillside and into the water. No bigger than a one-room apartment and corroded by the salt air, an immigration officer stood on the porch overlooking the boat passengers below. He seemed stern, focused and leaned over the precipice with a bit of Hitler posture. Now a bit of history of the Burmese government:

Known until recently as Burma, Myanmar is a country that has a wonderful past, magnificent pagodas and where life in villages where gentle and under a strong influence of Buddhist faith. Burma was colonized by the British in 1777 until 1945, when Burma won her independence. But in 1962, after fifteen years of independence, the military under General Ne Win revoked their constitution and Burma was thrusted into a military regime. Students in Rangoon protested the takeover, but were then fired upon by soldiers and then bombed, killing hundreds of students. By the late 1980's, Burma became one of the poorest countries in the world and has experienced a stagnation of economic growth. You see this when you walked the streets of Myanmar. What I personally found interesting was the sign at the immigration office proclaiming to eradicate drug trafficking, when it is clear the government is still in the opium trade business. But I'm aware its just a facade to let outsiders believe that they are a balanced and concerned government, when in fact they still have slave child labor, drug trafficking, and where the government still represses and tortures its own people, the will of the people for democratic freedom is ruthlessly (and I mean ruthlessly) suppressed, and that it will take your life at any exercise of personal freedom that threatens the stability of the regime. The poverty level is so great that the real incomes are far less than they were at independence in 1947.

With all this in mind, it’s imperative that you watch closely how you spend your money there. Put in the wrong pockets (even unbeknownst to you a child on the street could be covertly collecting your heartfelt donations for bullets for the local militia) you must heed to giving money, and perhaps take your heartfelt money along with the child to the local market and purchase a pair of shoes or even a hot meal. More of this later. But you get the point.

Now back to the trip at hand.

My Aussie friend, Stuart, back in Khao Lak had given me a cell number for a young man named Win. I phoned him from the docks in Burma after checking in, once again, at immigration to get my 3-week visa to stay in Burma. Shortly after, Win arrived to greet us. He was a small young man, dark-skinned and wearing the traditional clothing comprising of a nice collared shirt and long wrap around his waist that nearly touched the ground. A bit of a skirt, if you will, while I show my ignorance in its proper name. He spoke English quite well and it was clear he was educated. His mother and the rest of the family once lived in Malaysia and he had been able to go to a University and earn his degree. But once they moved back to her native land of Burma in the mid-90’s, he is unable to leave the country (the government won’t allow him and he does not want to leave his mother’s side as she is unable to walk). His left arm from the elbow down to his hand is horribly deformed and it was difficult to wonder if it was from birth of from an accident. But his wonderful smile and kind words kept our focus on his self, and not his disability.

He told us of a group of young boys living on the streets that he cares for. We were able to meet with six of them and we set off to see this small port town of Kawthaung, Myanmar. My first impression was the incredible filth and level of poverty here. I have had the experience of traveling to many impoverished countries, but this somehow was making a mark in my book of “most filthy”. The streets were so littered with trash that I couldn’t believe my eyes. Storekeepers displayed their wares on the sidewalks while stray dogs roamed. And cats everywhere. I have seen only one cat in Thailand during my time here, and today I am seeing more than I want to (not a cat fan). Win and the boys led us along the small streets and I offered to buy the boys some clothing. We ducked into a nearby market and the boys got to pick out what they wanted; one garment only. They all seemed to want a new pair of long pants and at $3.75. They wanted a belt to go with their pants, but Win let them know that the pants were good enough and that next time perhaps they could get a belt. Win made it clear to the boys to not try and take advantage of those that are here to help them. He keeps a short leash on their wants and focuses on their needs.

One boy joined our group a bit later and he came to me and tugged on my shirt. I looked down and he looked up at me and asked, in broken English, “my shirt?” It was clear he was feeling left out and didn’t get a piece of clothing. I asked that Win tell him that when we get back to the market, I will buy him a shirt, too. But that didn’t stop him from reminding me about every 10 minutes. He was also the only one in the group without shoes, so when we did get back to the market, Cynthia and Hayden bought him some new sandals to wear. It seemed a little awkward to him at first, but he got used to them. And he liked them, too.

In the hour and a half we spent with these boys, Win gave us a great historical tour of the town. He led us, with entourage in tow, to visit two temples. One built for the Chinese and the Buddhist temple atop a hill accessible by climbing 120 steps. These temple grounds overlooked the village and port below. The view was spectacular.


At then end of our stay, Cynthia and Hayden wanted to get some food for them. What they needed was a hot meal, and after Win led us to the right place, Cynthia fed them in a local open-air restaurant with rice and vegetables.

Our day ended back at the docks to await the return of our longboat captain. We asked him earlier that he return to pick us up. We hadn’t paid him yet, so it was clear he would show up to take us back to Ranong. The boys didn’t follow us to the docks as they were eating as we were leaving. Win did walk us to the docks and stayed with us to see us off, but when another young man came up and spoke to him in Burmese, Win said he had to go now “the government comes” he said. After his quick departure, a boat arrived at the docks and seven or eight government officials, some in military uniforms, disembarked and walked down the pier. Win must have had some form of fear, but we were not really sure why. And a quick survey of the surrounding area showed that nearly all of the Burmese greeting the tourists (we saw about 20 foreigners during our whole stay) with walking-tours, boat rides to nearby islands and moto-taxis had all but disappeared.

We then saw our boat arriving and within minutes we were heading back to Ranong, Thailand. But now without first having the throttle cable break on the engine of our boat and we sat listing back and forth in the open water, far away from either port, while the captain assured us he would have it fixed and running soon. And so he was right.

Now back in Khao Lak, my experience there was interesting. I am constantly being reminded of how fortunate I am and I am grateful that I have the means to do something like I’m doing. For those who have not traveled beyond your own borders and have not experienced a nation in poverty, I urge you to make the venture. It is an experience that trumps any trip to Disneyland, the Grand Canyon or a vacation in the Hamptons. Not that I’d know what that’s like, though. Ignorance is truly bliss, but knowledge is power. So power your mind with what the real world outside Starbucks and McDonald’s has to offer.

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Photos

Longtail Boat Ride to Burma
Here I am in a longtail boat, powered by a motor with a long driveshaft with propeller. The smell of fish in the air!

A Ride For My Brothers
A young boy tugs along the milk crate with his two brothers. Too poor to have a wagon, they improvise.

Downtown Victoria Point
This small village along the water is so impoverished it makes anyone feel like they have stepped into the Third World.

Our New Friend 'Win'
Win showed us around the temples along with six boys that live on the streets. He is their keeper and is college educated, though not allowed to leave Burma.

The Group At Buddhist Temple
High above the city, we take a moment to take a group photo in front of one of many Buddha statues at the temple.

Fishing Vessel at Ranong, Thailand
A fisherman bathes at the stern of the ship as they pull into port to offload the tons of catch for market. It often is sold to markets in Singapore.

Comments

[Lucy Moreno]

Hello and looks like all is well
Hello Johnny Looks like all is well and that you are taking in the culture and people of Thailand well. I think of you often and can enjoy your Journey in Thailand through your updates of your experiences. Thank you for including me in the updates and your journey. Blessings, Lucy