Same same, but different

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My recurring mantra over the past three days has been the common Thai saying “same same, but different.” It applies quite fittingly to both Dhaka, and me as a person living in Bangladesh. Random words and ways of being are flooding back from the depths of my memory. Yesterday I found myself doing the ubiquitous Bangladeshi head nod (which Arif says doesn’t exist, but every foreigner knows it does) which can be variously interpreted as “hey rickshaw-whallah”, yes, no, maybe, I don’t know, and f*%k off. I hadn’t even remembered there was such a thing as the head nod, but there I was, doing it effectively (I managed to hail a rickshaw from down the street).

Other things I still need to work on - like keeping my mouth clamped shut in the shower and honing my sixth sense which allows me to avoid being horked (sp?) on. I also need to work on being comfortable in a rickshaw again. My first day back I was sure I was going to die as the rickshaw-whallah swerved into on-coming traffic every 10 metres to avoid child-sized potholes in the road or pass another rickshaw (who was passing a third rickshaw). I only made things worse for myself by refusing to hold on to the seat because I didn’t want to look like a stupid foreigner who’d never been in a rickshaw before. Even here image matters more than practicalities, perhaps more so since there are so many people watching.

As much as Dhaka seems the same, there are definitely visible changes. Certainly there are more cars and more traffic lights (read: driving suggestions). I think the points value for foreigners may also have gone up, as I seem to almost get run-over by a Lexus in my neighbourhood every time I walk down my street. The little wealthy enclave in which I live (Gulshan) has undergone some new additions, like a new Chapters-esque bookstore (on a smaller scale) and an A&W and I saw a sign for a Baton Rouge (I started salivating just thinking about it, but I’m sure they must beef ribs instead of pork). Plus everyone seems to accept VISA now.

(For those few of you with a map of Dhaka in your head, Arif’s house is on Road 2 in Gulshan 1 - the same road as AKF, just a block in from Pizza Hut.)

I have to admit that I’ve been feeling a bit timid about being here on my own. I’ve also found myself with time on my hands the likes of which I haven’t seen for 12 months! I almost don’t know what to do with myself! This morning I decided to refresh my map of the neighbourhood and went out for a walk. By the time I got to Gulshan 2 I was so hot and exhausted that I decided to go shopping just to enjoy some free air conditioning. I was dying for some water (funning how sayings seem so different once the context changes) but didn’t dare buy any since today was the first day of Ramadan fasting. I did, however, relish the fact that I now have considerably more money than last time around, and bought myself some pearls (it’s hard to say no at $10, and that was a rip off), some Nutella and a gift for my hubby. I saw some beautiful oil paintings in a gallery but I had no idea what a good price would be so I’ll have to go back after I ask Arif.

After feeling rather proud of myself for navigating the neighbourhood and treating myself (that seems like a sin, being proud for treating yourself) I came home to get down to work with a new book on Bangladeshi indigenous peoples that I found in the market. The maid showed up and we spent an hour (punctuated by flurries of giggles) trying to have what could have been a 10 minute conversation. Then we went into the kitchen and practiced naming things in Bangla and English. I think I’ve won her over just for trying.

So that’s been my day. Not very exciting reading I guess, but for me a series of small accomplishments and everyday victories. Now I just have to wait for the power to come back on so that I can post this!

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Comments

[Kym & the gang]

Pictures please!
Send pictures, we are a visual family ;-) K

[Marsha]

You make me feel like I'm there
Congratulations on navigating and buying successfully. Pearls for $10. My curiosity turns to those oil paintings. I'd love to be there. You must have a plan of sorts regarding how you're going to proceed and once that starts, you won't be talking of "time on your hands". The time will fly. Enjoy it while you have it. Christening by the way went very well. Ryan and Katie were wonderful help. Geof and I exhausted. We're on our way to Myrtle Beach Saturday, but hopefully we'll be able to stay connected. I told "work" I wasn't taking my laptop and perhaps I shouldn't, but.... Keep enjoying yourself. The rickshaw ride sounds like a blast. You're allowed to feel proud of yourself. Love Marsha (and Geof)