Jetwash

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Addis Ababa was named in 1886 when Taitu, the Empress of Menelik II, was given land to build in a place called Filwoha (or “boiling water”), which she then renamed - Addis Ababa meaning “New Flower”. Menelik eventually moved the capital here.

The hot springs still exist at the Addisu Filwoha Hotel, where the natural hot mineral water is piped in for hydro-massage. So, that is where we planned to go - just right for a cold day in the rainy season!

Clare and I had also invited Anoushka, who works at the Bale Mountains National Park, in Dinsho. We met Anoushka at her hotel, the Itegue Taitu Hotel - the first hotel to be established in Addis, built for Taitu by an Armenian architect in 1907. The hotel must once have been beautiful, and was a fine example of faded elegance, with creaking floorboards, period furniture and a calm atmosphere.

At the Addisu Filwoha, we nervously followed directions to the “massage 4th class”. I had phoned to book us appointments the previous day, but was prepared for disappointment, as the guy on the phone had seemed a little casual about the time. Our names, however, were on the list so we reported to reception, and then went to pay our 60 birr each (approx. £3.50) at the cashier. On returning to the reception desk, we were told to take a seat for a few minutes but before I had managed to sit down we were told the first person could go through. I felt that Clare and Anoushka were quick to suggest that I went first!

I followed the woman into a large curtained cubicle containing a huge bathtub. Having spoken to other VSO volunteers who had been there previously, I knew that it was a case of being naked (not swimming costumes, or underwear as in the Hamam that Rachel and I went to when on holiday in Morocco) so, as instructed I undressed and piled my clothes on the chair indicated, before climbing three wooden steps into the largest, deepest bath I have ever been in, full to the brim with steaming water from the hot springs. I lay there for a while, holding on to the handles and trying not to slip under the water. The next part of the process is a hydro-massage; the woman returned and proceeded to run a powerful jet of water over every part of me. She didn’t speak much English, and the only word of Amharic that I could think of was “Conjo!” (which literally means beautiful). She then informed me “Hydro-massage finished” and indicated that I should go to the next cubicle where there was a massage table.

Lying face down on the table, still hot from the bath, and wrapped in towels, I was left to relax, accompanied by the sound of a thunderstorm. I then had one of the best, full body massages I have had in ages. It was extremely full body! When she had finished, I was again left to relax, before getting dressed and floating out to the reception area to wait for Clare and Anoushka.

We ended the afternoon with a coffee at the Finfinee Hotel, over the road, which was another very old hotel.

Funnily enough, there are no photos with this entry!

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