Zimbabwe and Victoria Falls

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After Chobe, some of us crossed into Zimbabwe to experience a lion walk. This was incredible. The African Lion Environmental Research Trust raises lions from cubs, teaches them how to hunt, and then releases them into a large area (10,000 acres) where these lions will form prides and raise their own cubs. These new cubs, who do not see or come into contact with humans, will then be relocated in areas in Africa.

Why are they doing this? In the last 20 years 80 percent of Africa's lions have disappeared. And the situation is just getting worse.

As part of raising the cubs, between 4 months (younger than this they just like to bite in play) and 18 months (older than this they become too strong when they play and can seriously hurt a person), the cubs are taken on walks with guides and volunteers, and tourists (i.e. me) and also join in the walk.

I can't really describe what is it like to walk beside a 17 and 1/2 month old lion cub (can't really call them cubs though; they are way too big). The power, grace and strength of the animals has to be felt to be understood. You get to walk beside them, touching them (they see humans as part of their pride), and only have to be careful when they want to play with you. Don't let them. They get distracted quite easily, to the guides (there were 6 or 8 around at all times) watch the two lions and distract them before they get interested in you.

They also play rough with each other. Our two (Lena and Lelonge; Lena the smaller female and Lelonge the larger male with a mane just beginning; although they are different sizes they are the same age) had a tussle in the middle of the walk, and had they done that with any of the people, it would have meant serious lacerations. But they were fine - turns out lion skin is very, very flexible.

After this incredible experience (and if you have a chance, do it - it's one of the best things I've ever done), a few of us stopped off to see Victoria Falls from the Zim (that's Zimbabwe) side. You get a better view from the Zim side, and it was well worth the $20 U.S. entry fee into the national park. I can't really describe the Falls, but they were stunning.

While Zimbabwe has a well-earned reputation as dangerous, and you could see how our guides and driver were watching out for us, none of us had any problems. I don't think I'd want to go there on my own though. There is not a good feeling in the country, and today is their rerun of their election. The prediction: chaos or positive change, and from what I've heard, choas is more likely. Which is sad for the people of Zim. I wish them well.

And, this was one of the most incredible days of my life.

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