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Published: December 18th 2006
Kayaking has allowed me to do, see, and just be in some really spectacular places. Today is one of those days. I’m laying on a rock in a pool at the base of Victoria Falls. As I look up I see nothing but water cascading down this magnificent waterfall. It is amazing. The only reason I’m here is because we put-in, ferried over to Zim, portaged and then paddled up under the falls. Only kayakers get to do this. Today I’m very lucky.
Today was also my last day on the river. I decided that days of paddling is enough. My body is starting to hurt and I’m getting tired. But I will definitely be back to paddle again. This river is too amazing not to come back for. Today will also be my third time down the upper section, rapids 1-13.
Today, unfortunately I swam for the 3rd time at rapid #4. Don’t know what is wrong with me and that rapid. I had a great line until the bottom and then who knows, all hell broke loose. I really was pissed about this one, today was going to be a clean day with no swims. But my roll still sucks so I swam. Luckily the Zambezi is probably the safest class IV-V whitewater you would ever swim. It is so deep that there are no rocks to hit and it is all drop pool. Because there is so much water coming through almost all holes flush… unless they are smiley holes.
I did survive 12 and 13 today, actually finishing with a huge smile on my face. Nothing like a few hundred meters of class IV big boogey water to put a smile on your face.
One thing I didn’t mention in my last TR, is how truly beautiful this gorge is. The sky is an amazing blue, when it isn’t covered in clouds. Even then it is still a magnificent site up and down the gorge, looking at the rapids, the pools, or the walls. Sometimes I truly forget where I am. I am on the Zambezi I know, but I could be anywhere in the world on the Zambezi. It is such a magical place. It was a great feeling to not be so nervous so I could look around and be amazed by the wonder of the river.
On day 4 of paddling we did the Moemba Falls section. This is long section, 25kms, from below rapid #25 down. It is mostly flat water with some really big rapids at the end. In between is several rapids called the narrows. In truth this whole section reminds me of Section III at very high water, without the sticky holes, just lots of boogey water, and paddling. We were told on this section that in the pools we should stay together and paddle, not float. That would keep the crocodiles at bay. But we didn’t see any crocs; I guess they were in the water.
Other things I’ve seen on this river. I’ve seen whirlpools develop and suck boats all the way under, complete mystery move. Only to disappear and the boats resurface. I’ve rolled up thinking I was in a hole, only to find myself surfing a wave that wasn’t there before. I just surfed for awhile and the wave disappeared and then I paddled on. I saw an amazingly clean line at #9. Every day the river was higher than the day before. Some rapids got bigger some easier…just different. #7 is definitely becoming diceyer, but that doesn’t matter to me, since I walk it anyway.
Personally I think it would be fun to take the Shredder down this river. Vitale you ever want to come over, I’ll be there.
As far as pictures I might have some in the future. The Germans and S. Africans I’ve been paddling with took a bunch. So when they send them to me, I’ll post them.
Till then, I’m just resting another week in Livingstone and then heading to Lusaka and Lower Zambezi NP. I’m going to trade rapids for Hippos and crocs… but I’ll tell that story when it happens.
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Vitale
non-member comment
Sorry Mike - Blew my travel funds on Skiing
You'll have to wait on the shredder trip down the Zambezi. I'm spending too much money on Skiing. Alta last week, Italy in Jan and maybe Alta in Mar. I might even end up on a crew delivering a 72' Alden from Antigua to the Med this spring. AC, 42" plasmas, push button winches and tons of Mt Gay. It's a longshot but Sammy might come through. Glad to see your back on the Journey and not in rehab. If we find your roll where should we send it?