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Published: November 18th 2012
"Your powers are weak, old man."
I think he was talking to me. Been feeling weak and old with the insane pace of traveling. Frequent napping has helped much.Anakin Skywalker, the young Darth Vader, grew up in Ong Jemel, Tunisia. I did not know that many of the Star Wars sets (both series) were in Tunisia until I started researching what exactly I was going to do here for 2 weeks after I arrived from Sicily a couple of weeks ago. I am tentatively scheduled to fly to Israel tomorrow. In light of current events I will probably cancel it and spend another 2 weeks in Turkey.
$US ≈ 1.5 Tunisian dinar (DT)
Tunis
Tunisia's capital and main port of entry. I arrived here on an overnight ferry from Palermo, Sicily which was quite civilized since I took a berth in a nice 4 person cabin instead of crashing in the lounge like many backpackers were doing.
Accommodation and food Upon arrival I thought I might catch the night train south so I first went to the train station. But the left luggage facilities were a little expensive and I wanted to leave my camping gear behind since it would be unnecessary for traveling here. I looked at a few hotels just north of the train station but to save some bucks eventually settled
on the Auberge de Jeunesse (French for youth hostel) right in the medina for 12DT/night in a dorm bed. WiFi costs an additional 3DT but you could probably ask another guest for the password. A very light breakfast is included. The building is beautiful but the facilities, particularly the bathrooms, could use a major renovation. Also, most of the medina closes down just after sunset giving the whole area a sketchy and creepy feel. The restaurant scene is much the same all over town - shwarma, chicken, pizza, and pasta - and nothing stood out as remarkable except that Friday - Sunday nights many places closed ridiculously early.
Transport I left for Gabès on the night train purportedly departing at 10:15 pm but leaving almost one hour later and arriving at 6:00 am. I made the mistake of purchasing a ticket in comfort class for 26.25DT which was supposed to be a step up from first class but it was not so. Comfort class was merely a small, separate section of first class but very close to the "restaurant" car where staff congregated all night. Additionally, the lights were never turned off, the heat was on full blast, and
the conductors rampaged through the carriage all night after each of the 6 or 7 stops to check for newly arrived passengers. At the Gabès station there were 2 buses waiting to take passengers further to either Djerba or Tataouine (my ultimate destination for an additional 7.6DT) where we arrived at 8:30 am. I actually wanted to take the train to Tozeur which would have simplified the overall logistics of the trip but for some reason the attendant at the train station would not sell me a ticket and I'm pretty sure he said that train did not run anymore.
Carthage Ancient Phoenician city close to Tunis. I thought the museum was good with many well preserved, huge statues but overall it kind of paled in comparison to Rome and all the Roman ruins I've seen in Turkey. It's very spread out too. 9TD entry, 1TD for a camera but I got in to the museum for free with my international teacher identity card (instructional lab technician counts). It didn't work at the baths so I just walked around to the back to get a glimpse.
Tataouine
Gritty little town whose name was adapted by George
Lucas's first Star Wars film for Luke Skywalker's home planet. Friendly town, not much going on but strategically placed to visit outlying areas. Get transport information at the very helpful tourist office.
Accommodation and food I looked at a couple of super basic places before choosing Hotel Bel Meharem just north of the market. My own clean room with shower (sink and toilet oddly in the hall for all rooms) was 10DT and breakfast was an extra 2-3DT depending on whether I wanted the regular (coffee and cake) or deluxe (coffee, cake, fruit, and juice) breakfast. The hotel also had free WiFi which was not nearly as prevalent in Tunisia as I found in other countries. Like Tunis, food is basic and typical, nothing special.
Transport Departing for most destinations requires changing in Gabès which is a 2 hour ride from Tataouine for 7.6DT in a
louage (basically a minivan) leaving regularly from the bus station which is a 0.7DT share taxi ride from town. I left Tataouine 12:10 pm arrived in Gabès at 2:20 pm, walked to the Matmata
louage station 200 meters down the street where I waited ~15 minutes for another to Matmata Ancien taking
45 minutes and costing 2.5DT. Normally there is a change in Nouvelle Matmata. For Chenani and Ksar Ouled Soltane
louages leave from Rue de 2 Mars each costing 1DT. Go early as they take a while to fill.
Matmata
Home of the Sidi Driss Hotel which was Luke's home in Star Wars. I went to the musuem for 3DT but may be better to find someone to show you a Berber cave home as the musuem was kind of lame.
Accommodation and food I passed on the Sidi Driss and stayed in my own cave room at Hotel Marhala for 30DT with half board, share bathroom with seriously scalding hot water, and WiFi (asked 2DT but easy to negotiate for free as there weren't many guests). Very quiet place, food was good but drinks were not included except for coffee with breakfast.
Transport I left for Gabès by direct bus at 10:00 am for the odd price of 2.08DT but
louages via a change in Nouvelle Matmata are definitely faster. Got to Gabès at 11:15 am for a quick change to a
louage for Kebili (1:40, 6.7DT) then again for Tozeur (1:30, 5.7DT) where I
finally arrived at 3:20 pm.
Tozeur
I did not see the love affair with Tozeur. Many travelers told me how much they liked the place but I really didn't see why. My hotel was nice but not much else about the dirty town was appealing. Additionally, the highly promoted half day tour to the adjacent oases was very underwhelming and pricey. I went with Tunisia Colors Travel for 50DT for a 6 hour 4x4 tour to Chebika, the “Grande Cascade” at Tamezra, Ong Jemal and the adjacent sand dunes, Chott el-Gharsa, and Nefta. No food or drinks were provided and the tour was actually 4½ hours long from the time we left Tozeur until we returned.
Accommodation and food Hotel Residence Karim had a single with private bathroom with awesome shower, and a standard Tunisian breakfast of bread, spreads, and
cafe au lait for 20DT. No WiFi but it could be pilfered next door at Cafe Miniar. Restaurant Luna next to the hotel was OK for dinner and there are many places to get plates of chicken or shwarma for a few dinars.
Transport Getting to Tozeur involved a long trip as did leaving. There
are several buses/day for Kairouan for 16.43DT but
louages would have definitely been faster if I could have figured out where to go first as there were none direct. The bus left at 8:00 am and stopped at a restaurant 15 minutes out of Kairouan where we finally arrived at 1:30 pm which was too late to see any sights as they close by 2 pm.
Kairouan
Historic and religiously significant town that can be "done" in one day. The sights could actually be visited from Sousse if you left early enough. 8DT entry ticket covers all the sights (plus 1DT for a camera). There are a few hamams in town with varying hours for men and woman. I went to one near my hotel where the entry and massage was 7.5DT. The massage was heavy on the scrub and light on the massage which is what I really wanted. Hamams and massages in Turkey were much better.
Accommodation and food First checked out Hotel Sabra which had bathroom-less rooms for 14DT including breakfast. Headed over to Tunisia Hotel since I wanted my own bathroom. A single including breakfast was 25DT, no WiFi although Cafe Mondial
up the street provided that service for the modest price of a 0.5DT espresso. Splendid Hotel was ~10DT more. Again, nothing worth noting about the dining situation except for Patisserie Farayan just outside the NE corner of the medina where a flaky
mille feuille (basically a Napoleon pastry) was 0.7DT.
Transport Getting to Sousse is easy and quick. The bus and
louage stations are about a 20 minute walk from the medina. Trip there takes an hour and costs 4DT.
Sousse
Seaside party town probably better appreciated with nice weather. It rained the one full day I was there and the second day I went to Mahdia and El Jem so I didn't really get to explore the sights much. Additionally, the hamam wanted 10DT for an entry which was about 5 times the normal price.
Accommodation and food Initially I thought I had a good deal at Hotel Medina who wanted 25DT for a single room with private bathroom and breakfast but 5DT for the TV which mostly broadcast in Arabic so I got that waived. But the negotiation broke down when I was told that WiFi was an additional 2DT per half hour.
I left and looked at Hotel Gabès which was only 8DT for a single with shared facilities but the beds were awful. Hotel Residence Sarra at the NW corner of the medina was a decent compromise for 15DT, still share bathroom and no breakfast but the one room on the roof was incredibly quiet and dark so I slept really well except for the night after I ate some suspect pasta bolognesa. WiFi at Cafe Marrakech Sousse, which slings great cappuccino and café crème. The best meal I had in Tunisia was at Restaurant du Peuple under Hotel Paris. Fixed meals go for 7.5DT and included a nice variety of dishes. Fast Food Bell Avenue is where I ate the questionable pasta. Good ice cream and the longest WiFi password on the planet can both be found at Patisserie Cherif. The second best meal I ate was in Mahdia at Restaurant Cabare where cous-cous á poisson w/soup was 4DT. Followed up with a 0.5DT
mille feuille at Patisserie Malek.
Transport Took the train back to Tunis which was infinitely more pleasant than the train to Gabès. There is an express train that leaves at 9:15 am and arrives 2
hours later, faster than the
louages and departs and leaves from the centers of both cities. Cost is 10.8DT. For Mahdia I took the 9:15 am metro from Sousse that arrived at 11:05 am. I did this last Friday which was market day - sort of a huge outdoor shopping mall that wraps up ~1:00 pm which is a good time to walk to the
louage station (2 kms south of the train station) for a ride to El Jem (50 minutes, 2.4DT) to check out the coliseum. El Jem to Sousse is 1:15 and 4DT. The Sousse
louage station is ~20 minute walk from the south end of the medina.
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