Voodoo Where?

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Initially, I acquired quite a dislike for Togo. This was entirely based on one particular day’s experiences:

First of all the difficulties in getting a Nigerian visa continued. In Ghana, the Nigerian embassy had run out of passport stickers and in Togo the embassy, for some reason, was closed. Next I was threatened by a moneychanger who had tried to rip me off. He then accused me of ripping him off, and proceeded to follow me through town shouting thief and promising he’d kill me if he saw me again. I wanted to visit the fetish market to experience some of the voodoo culture, but I heard from friends that it was purely for tourists. You had to pay to get in and on sale were such artefacts as gorilla’s paws, monkey testicles and leopard skins. I decided that this isn’t the type of tourist attraction I like to promote so didn’t go. While trying to find a working internet café, electricity here is more infrequent than Ghana, I stubbed my toe on a dust and litter covered, maliciously placed concrete block. By now I was sick of Lome so retreated to the beach. Ignoring all the people urinating on the sand, I went for a swim, got hit by a big wave, bashed into a submerged rock, and then my hip was bleeding as well as my toe.

My time in Togo did get better. I stayed in a hotel in Togoville that had a great pool surrounded by mango trees and we were the only guests. Most of the next few days were spent in and around the pool because it became apparent that Togoville, like Timbuktu, is a place of historical significance but there is little to see now. The town is where Gustav Nachtigal signed a treaty in 1884 with the local king creating German Togoland; much to the surprise and annoyance of the British and French.

Togoville is also the home of voodoo in Togo. Despite the churches and mosques in Togo, voodoo is very prevalent. And it isn’t all dolls and spells like it is depicted in Hollywood but is a proper religion. Unfortunately the stories of fetishes in the streets and markets full of animal parts were an exaggeration.

Even more dominant than voodoo is the Togolese worship of Emmanuel Adebayor. The Arsenal striker’s picture is everywhere.

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Photos

Pirogue Paddler/Punter?
We could have walked across Lake Togo, it never appeared to be more than two foot deep.

Arriving at Togoville
The German built cathedral has a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary who has made occasional appearances on the lake.

Lizard and Mango
Would make an interesting smoothie.

Pool in the Pool
It was very hot and the table had a rip in it so we resorted to playing underwater.

Beach at Aneho
The great beaches of Ghana continue into Togo. They are always full of life, with fisherman, footballers and toilet goers (watch where you step), whatever time of day or night.