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Published: February 22nd 2007
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written by Miss Wendy O Jambo
Jambo Bwana
Habari Gani
Mzuri Sana
Check me out getting all Swahili! Arriving in Zanzibar, Tanzania was a relief to say the least. Compared to Lose-A-Week (Mozambique) is it warm, friendly and relaxed. The Tanzanians are open and warm spirited.
OK a spot of history. Tanzania is where human beings are thought to have evolved from. The mainland, Tanganyika, was once a German colony (but let’s not hold that against them) and Zanzibar Island was a British colony. After WWI, the League of Nations mandated Tanganyika to Britain. Shortly after Tanganyika became independent it united with Zanzibar to form Tanzania. History lesson officially over!
Zanzibar, once the capital of the Arab empire in East Africa is a small island off the east coast of Tanzania. Its picture-postcard beaches, turquoise sea and white sands stretch for miles. We spent a couple of days getting lost among Stone Town’s narrow cobbled streets and hidden courtyards. These streets are bustling with activity - locals hanging out chatting and laughing, women in black veils, massais in full traditional gear, traders opening up shop and neighbours leaning across the narrow gap between their homes to chat.
The colonial buildings and old Arab houses with tiny ornate balconies and brass studded doors are beautiful.
We headed down to the fish market for dinner where the local fishermen sell their catch for the day YUM... We wondered through the very busy active market in Stone Town where I tried on several traditional African dresses (made in India) that made me look like the size of a bus.
As a surprise birthday treat, Stuart took me to an oasis, a piece of paradise, for 2 days. Breezes Resort is on the SE coast of the island and is the most gorgeous, relaxing place I have ever stayed. Our suite had a huge verandah where we played guitar and a bed bigger than my house in Sydney. The hotel had heaps of open rooms full of comfy day-beds for chilling out, a pool for cooling down, a spa, a gym and a restaurant serving the finest of foods. A spot of luxury and a real treat! I’m the luckiest 29 year old chick (well at this point I wasn’t officially 30 yet!). The hotel was right on the beach and offered watersports activities. We had so much fun
and giggles.
After our 2 day escape we were back to packpacker life and took the ferry to Dar es Salam. On the way to the ferry we made an emergency stop to buy a pair of $12 runners from a market stall after having realized mine went walkabout after one of our nightmare Mozambique bus trips (dirty thieving gypsies). After losing hope of finding a Nike shop I resorted to buying a crap pair to keep me going (literally) until we got to the states.
In Dar we stayed at the YWCA. Not exactly Breezes but clean and secure never the less. Well I say clean if it hadn’t been for Stuart using all the water for his lengthy shower and leaving me with one cup of cold water for a wash. To share a room at YWCA you need to be married and aren’t allowed to leave the hostel after 9pm (another subtle marriage proposal by Stuart if ever I saw one!). Dar is a kool city. Again it’s warm and relaxed. Local dudes hang out on doorsteps and pavements to chat, laugh and play cards, greeting passers-by with Jambo (no this isn’t ham but Swahili
Stuart's Brush with Death
Just after Stuart fell backwards onto the coral and the jaggy black sea urchins - OUCH! for hello!). Dar is quite developed and even has a Levi Store. The next morning we caught a bus to Moshi up North. Despite a 2hr delay, having to move seats 3 times and a blown tyre it was a great 9hr journey. The bus even had air con and a loo - what a treat!
Turtles on Tour
The Zanzibar Touts In Stone Town we were flocked by touts selling crap, tours and taxis. Stuart adopted a standard line which he thought was firm but fair only to find we had organized 12 spice tours and 5 taxis for the next morning. “Maybe Tomorrow” has officially been dropped from Stuart’s vocab.
Turtles do Yoga To help immerse ourselves into the tranquil atmosphere at Breezes, we took an early morning yoga class at the spa. With just us two in the class our Indian yoga instructor, who said “buttocks” way too many times, could dedicate a full hour to us. Within the first 5 minutes of the class he broke out into a full on yoga chant. Well this ummmmm’ing was a little too much for our juvenile minds. It took half an hour before we could
contain our giggles and start the class. The instructor, who was initially really eager for us to do 2 classes, didn’t appear as keen to invite us back after the class!
The Coral Walk Breezes is beautifully situated on the SE coastline of Zanzibar Island. Because of it’s location it experiences a daily high and low tide. During low tide it’s possible, with rubber coral shoes to protect your feet, to walk out on the lagoon to the reef. In our excitement upon arrival we each borrowed a fetching pair of jelly shoes and off we popped out to the reef. It was a little later than the recommended time to walk out on the coral but on checking with the watersports centre staff whether it would be OK we received an affirmative “YES” (only now do we suspect this is similar to the Malawian “YES”).
The coral was a little tricky to walk on as we tried to avoid hundreds of black jaggy sea urchins. After half an hour or so we didn’t appear to be any closer to the reef and the water was starting to get a little deeper so we made a call to
turn around and start walking back to shore. No sooner had we turned around had the tide started rapidly coming in. Soon I was up to my waist in water falling about like a maniac. It took us 45mins of being on the edge of panic before safely making it back to shore. Right at the end of our escape to freedom Stuart fell backwards and ended up sitting on the coral and the jaggy sea urchins … ouch (see photo). We were left scraped, bruised and in need of a bottle of vino!
Turtles go Diving Again at Breezes, Stuart and I took our first introductory dive. It was awesome! We took a wee dahl boat out to the reef and went snorkeling for an hour then took turns to get kitted up and taken down to the bed of the ocean. After getting over the initial fear of not being able to breathe underwater we both really loved it. The instructor controlled our buoyancy and oxygen so all we had to do really was breath and enjoy the ride. I found myself forgetting to breathe occasionally and having to gasp frantically for air. I’m sure I managed
to inhale half a tank of oxygen on my 10 minute dive!
At one point, on checking out a seahorse on the ocean bed, Stuart realized that the instructor was facing him and no longer holding onto him. Although this was a scary moment, a bit like the first time you drive a car alone, it was a great feeling. When we eventually find a home and jobs we will defiantly do more deep sea diving yay!
Turtles get Too Hairy I am now officially a qualified hairdresser. In true backpacker fashion I cut Stuart hair which had started to resemble an afro. I only cut my hand once and only slightly cut Stuart’s neck with my army knife scissors (thanks Lou). He is looking HOT!!!
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Derek Mendonca
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Why the hell am i looking at photos of doors, why the f..k do I want to see a door? SAo you were down the market then? Glad to see that you are having a great time. Take care and have fun. regards# Delboy