Spice Up Your Life

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I'm here in Stone Town in Zanzibar. It's been a long drive to get here, so let's review what's happened from the last entry in Zambia. Later in the evening, we went on another game drive in South Luangwa National Park in Zambia and by far, the best animal we saw was the shy and elusive leopard, up close. It was dark, and we had someone shining a spot light around looking for animals. We spotted the spotted leopard, and so did everyone else. We drove right up close to the leopard as it sat almost ignoring the half dozen safari jeeps surrounding it with their spot lights. I got some great photos. We followed the leopard as it stalked the impalas nearby. Our driver was outstanding, he knew where the leopard would go next, not just where the animal was at that moment. And then, all the other jeeps would follow us. We turned off our lights to let the leopard hunt, but too many others did not stop illuminating the leopard and so prevented it from hunting; if we can see the leopard so can the impala and so the leopard has lost its stealth. If not so many people were around we might have seen a real hunt, a rarer event still. At one point, the leopard was right in front of our jeep, we sat for at least 5 minutes in total darkness and toally quiet as the leopard waited. We couldn't see the leopard but knowing it was so near was absolutely thrilling.

To get to South Luangwa Park there is only one road in and out. Five hours to go 130 km on the worst potholed, washboard and dusty road you could imagine. Indeed, Zambia has the worst roads we've seen in Africa.

After Zambia, we crossed into Malawi, one of Africa's poorest countries. All along the roads, people walk, ride bicycles, carry things on their heads, sell and buy everything, wash their clothes and feed their goats and chickens. We stayed two nights on the beach at one campsite, and at another beach campsite further north for the final of three nights in Malawi. The first campsite was at a relaxing beach front chalet. The water was warm and fresh (not salty) but because of the strong winds that week, there was surf so it made swimming in the water great fun. At the second campsite, a similar set-up, but this campsite was near a village. We were given a tour of the local town. We saw the communal water pump supplied and built by Canada. We also visited the school, where 1500 students attend, with only 15 teachers. Primary school is free, but secondary school costs $50 per term, three terms a year. There are so many orphans in Malawi looking for sponsors. Many simply can't go to school because they can't afford it. The school has no electricity, and few books. School supplies are desparately needed. Then they took us to the hospital, which has no doctor, only a medical assistent, not even a trained nurse. The biggest killer in Malawi is malaria, then HIV / Aids. They are able to dispense a few drugs, pre and post natal care; all injuries and serious cases are refered to another hospital, hours, sometimes days away.

After Malawi we've been driving for two solid days to get to Zanzibar. Ten hours the first day and 16 hours the second, although the second day should have been only a mere 12 hours. We got to Dar Es Salaam soon enough, but we couldn't find the turn off for the campsite. We had to drive back and forth through a shanty town in the most horrendous traffic ever imagined. Buses, trucks and cars all trying to move along broken roads, everything criss crossing, making frantic U turns and chaotic merging. Thousands of people trying to move in and out of this stalled traffic. This was exasperating, as we sat in the truck, baking hot, breathing in pollution going nowhere, lost in a sea of traffic. We spent an extra four hours in this grid lock. We got to the campsite at 10 pm, hungry, sweaty, tired and all a little fed-up. At the end of this was a cold and salty shower under the palm trees and stars.

This morning we took the ferry to Zanzibar. We're here for four nights, some relaxing time before we have one more final big drive to get to the Serengeti. Zanzibar is hot and humid, but we have a lot of free time. I've been wandering around Stone Town, the old part of Zanzibar on my own looking and buying souvenirs and taking photographs. Stone Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it's a confusing labyrinth of narrow alleys, buildings, ornate wooden doors, vendors, motocycles and people. It's the birthplace of Freddie Mercury. Tomorrow we will go north and spend two nights on the beach. And tomorrow we'll take the spice tour and old slave trading markets.

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Photos

On the spice island
Our view on the Spice Tour, Zanzibar

Looking for seaweed
These ladies collect seaweed for export in sushi

Our beach side resort
Nungwi Beach, northern Zanzibar

Collecting seaweed
Zanzibar

The food market, Stone Town, Zanzibar
Just avoid the mussel kebabs

Comments

[Glynn Ridgway]

Hi - I work with your mom Carol, she forwards your blogs on to me as I have a very special interest in your trip. I am born in Zambia - raised in Zimbabwe - lived in SA till i came to Canada 4 years ago. I have travelled to those places you are travelling through now. Isnt Africa just incredible. Enjoy your stay and humba gashle (go safely)! Glynn Ridgway