10 years Diving in Pemba Island, oh and Merry Christmas....

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Africa » Tanzania » Pemba
March 5th 2010
Published: March 5th 2010EDIT THIS ENTRY

Dr Erwald LiskeDr Erwald LiskeDr Erwald Liske

Still diving strong at 70, and giving out sound information upon what we are seeing.
This morning, I surfaced from a dive, and realised that I really needed to write about it. Cisca and I had been camping on Kashani Island with my friends Steve and Huw. Cisca had chivied us into doing an early morning dive. Steve had acquiesced and we hopped into the water on Devils wall. We found ourselves at 27m snooping around an overhang full of glassfish. The lighting and marine life was serene. We ascended slowly towards a coral reef at 6 metres that was more abundant than any aquarium. Finally we surfaced to find our coxswain Mkanda waiting patiently on the glass calm water. This was Pemba, and Pemba for swahili divers after 10 years of operations. For on the 27th October 2009, we celebrated our 10th birthday of operations in Pemba. I remember our first client- Emilio Berretta and his group from Milan. I remember the exploratory dives we did and naming one site after him. “Emilio’s back passage”.

And so as the world looks back on the noughties, I thought I should take a look back at our ten years in Pemba. If I think of people, then I should talk of dive masters like Stuart the muppet who sadly died on Mount Mulanje, or of instructors such as Rachel who threw an eppie scopie when I wrote “Princess” on her BCD. Of meeting Cisca and getting married, or Ben “Shida” Barker who ran the place so well, before being lured away by Siren Serena. Can never forget Neil Clark who remains in my thoughts on a daily basis- and Viv who picked us up and fixed out boats when we needed it most. Or Stuart Catling, who fought with me, dived with me, and soldiered on through the sahara not once but twice in my company. Do I talk about Mohammad, who takes me diving, gaffs my fish and keeps my spirits up when we are catching nothing? Or Mzee Ali who makes the best fish this side of Chake Chake? I would not want to mention the bad people. Those unmentionables who were sacked in disgrace in order to maintain our ultra high standards-they know who they are.

It goes without saying that Swahili Divers has flourished in the Kervansaray with a renewal and regeneration program that brought us to new standards of comfort. The dive centre itself underwent a massive re-equipment program with two new boats, new BCD’s Suits and a great training pool.

But telling stories about the people of Swahili Divers- or about regeneration sounds like every year’s update. There had to be something new, some way of describing the privilege of being in this remote island for the last decade. Of seeing a place on earth that has not yet been destroyed by man. Affected- of course, but still in almost pristine conditin. But then I was given the gift of an interview with Dr Erwald Liske, the seventy year old Biologist and author of many books including the collins guide to the Indian Ocean. He and his buddy Dr Christian chose Swahili Divers to do ten days of research looking for their undescribed grouper and, it would seem, being enthused to do a new Indian Ocean update. Still diving energetically, and full of knowledge, I will let Dr Erwald do the talking for me:

An interview with Dr Erwald Liske, on his Pemba Experiences. 1993-2010.

FJ: Dr Erwald, please tell our friends in the diving community, How did you start your career:

“Well-I studied biology and chemistry for 7 years in Hamburg University and Tubingen university. (South Germany). There I did marine biology on untraviolet radiation. (and ended up killing thousands of animals). So I decided I could not stay at the university as I wanted independence. I could not continue with this research. So I taught biology and chemistry at gymnasium (academic high school) and then suddenly I went for 7 years to Maryland in the US to teach at the German Embassy School. I was able to explore America with my allowance and 11 weeks of summer holiday. Eventually I became a subdirector of the gymnasium.

Then after the school I went back to Germany to teach at a gymnasium and took several years off teaching to work on books, especially coral reef books and I painted about 3500 fishes. This was my start in the book world. The first book was Coral Reef Fishes (Harper Collins) with (The Esteemed Scientist and co Author Robert Myers.) This was published in 11 countries and has been a best seller to laymen and scientists all over the world with 240,000 sold. I am told that this is still the best seller in this field.

Then I did the second book on Indian Ocean fishes with Deiter Eicheler. He was an excellent diver, and knew his limits. Sometimes I would go deeper than 50 metres to search for fish, and I would say to him “wait for me at 50- you don’t have to follow, but you must wait in case I need you. I would explore- I love deep diving- and then return to him, Always safely”. In the 1980’s I started writing for Tauchen, you know the German Dive Magazine. I was able to go to many places in the Indopacific for them, and with the help of the airlines such as LTU.

I am now retired but I am here in Pemba in to update my book on the Red Sea and Indian Ocean. “

FJ: How did you hear about Pemba:

“Well- when Diter Eichler and stayed in Shimoni in 1993 I saw an undescribed grouper 60cm not found yet. It was Overlooked. And I met Ranjit Sondhi (the original pioneer of Diving in Pemba, founder of the Manta Reef) and he praised Pemba very much. He brought us to Pemba with his wooden sailing boat. A Turkish Kayik type vessel. That was the start of three voyages of discovery to this beautiful Island.

FJ: And what did you find when you came here:

Very few people on the reefs, a very remote area here in the north where you are living now. And after diving with Deiter (and Ranjit) in several places, I was convinced that this was a very good good place for diving because of the proximity of the deep deep 800m Pemba Channel. We stayed about 2 weeks in this area. Ranjit had started building a dive camp with simple military tents and lots of holes in the mosquito nets! Ah- I was very afraid because I had Malaria in Indonesia and did not want to catch it again, but he had achieved something here. It was very difficult for him because of the bureaucracy and lack of infrastructure. There was absolutely nothing in Pemba- more or less nothing in the north. BUT- There was coral packed on every ridge near the lighthouse and even here in front of the coast. You could literally float down the coast like a TV film underwater.

FJ: Dr Erwald- I ask this with some trepidaton: What do you find now- how does Pemba compare with 1993?

The village life has not changed, and the friendliness is still here. The forest however is smaller, thinner. I saw far more big trees near the lighthouse and all over. There is five times more indigenous activity in the north now.

But I am surprised at the survival of the coral places here. In the Matt Richmond book I read that 90%!o(MISSING)f East African coral from Mafia to Kenya is dead. However on the outer reefs of Pemba this is simply not the case. You (I) find very nice stretches of healthy coral and vibrant reefs. And best of all there are practically no divers on them.

To compare, and you must compare, there are 150 Live aboard dive boats off the southern Egyptian red sea alone. This is quite different here. There is nothing here, in spite of El Nino, which killed a lot of corals there is not doubt, there is still virgin diving here.

I have to say that 17 years ago we saw far more sharks and Mantas. 4-5 Mantas at Manta point. They were all killed Ranjit told me.

There are issues, there are too many people trampling on the reef flats but they need this protein, the people are poor. I won’t blame the children for taking out juveniles they do not know any better. They need the protein.

FJ: What have you seen UW in Pemba that is special or unique.

Practically all the East African species like the smiths toby, only one record of the african angel fish are present. At 30m you find a deep blue small fish chlidictus Johnvolckeri. At Manta Point.

It is interesting to see that some of the rarer parrot fishes of the Indian Ocean are common and close to the Pemba channel.

The variety of wrasses and snappers and puffer fish is good. 350-340 species of fishes. But here you will find 440 species. And many are visible in the close confines of Pemba water. I think the dives we did together in the Uvinje Gap (Slobodan’s Bunker and Devils wall) are the best for fish observation.

FJ: If I may ask, in the light of the damage that man is undoubtedly doing on the world’s Ocean’s :Why should people Come here:

You come here to Pemba to see the Pelagics, as the well as the variety. It is very important to come here during the European summer when the cooler water is coming up. Then you will see Rainbow runners, king fish, sailfish, yellow fin tuna, pilot jack fish, and big eyed jackfish. On this we saw many of these, but I don’t want to lure people here on false pretences. Pelagics like cooler water coming up from the deep channel from May to November.

The three Gaps of Uvinje Fundu and Njao are very special- partly due to the diversity of fishes, Marine scenery, good coral health. This is due to upwelling water, and there are no people that kill the kindergarten as it is too deep.

Three very positive sides. The three gaps (UVINJE FUNDO NJAO) always have something to offer the diver. Good Coral Growth, good coral and sponge growth. That is important for the diversity. These big barrel sponges. Finger sponges. Uvinje has a very good count of fishes. It is better than 60 places that I have seen on an expedition in the maldives in spring 2007 with 16 biologists. And that is saying something.

I have to also mention Misali Island- Beside these three top spaces, you have to go to Mislai Island Marine park south west , there is a fantastic area of table corals 2-3m with and growing schindle like. There is only some regrowth, most of them were not affected by the 1998 coral bleaching.

The east African clown fish with the white tail (amphiprion allardi.) It is common here, far more common than Kenya Coast and Unique to East Africa.

There is also a shimoni grouper (undescribed species) to look for. We found this in 1993 between Pemba and Shimoni. (DR Erwald was constantly looking for this) We have two done two expeditions sponsored by LTU airline to find this and were unsuccessful. On Mafia I found the Mitra Butterfly fish and I think it must be here in Pemba too. This is a new record for East Africa. If it is in Mafia it is also must be here.

FJ : And Dr Erwald, your final word on Pemba and its future preservation:

Of course all good areas should be preserved. Yesterday I counted 68 people on the reef collecting shells and spear fishing. They collect every shell that they can find, and they trample even on the regrouping/recovering corals. This kills the marine food change, and this

I went three times to the marine kindergarten and the children are spearing juvenile fishes in the tide pool. So for this reason you will get the same fish count as you did years ago.

But in short, these four places that I have mentioned are the reason to stay ten days in Pemba. There are indeed changes in Pemba, but considering the damage that has been done to global underwater eco system in the last 20 years, Pemba is still a very special location.

FJ: Dr Erwald, thank you for your thoughts on Pemba Island, and may all of us wish you the very best in your new book and your search for your special grouper.

Thank you.

And so dear friend, I arrive at the end of another HABER. Without so much news in it, except that we have been here for ten years and what a decade it's been, Many of you who read this are part of that decade, and I wish to thank you, for being part of an adventure, one that is not over... but an adventure none the less. And seeing as another year has passed I end this by wishing you safe diving, a peaceful life, and of course.: merry Christmas! Oh and in case you fancy a dive www.swahilidivers.com

Additional photos below
Photos: 19, Displayed: 19


6th March 2010

Raf, Thanks for keeping us informed of life in Pemba. One day we hope to return, by boat this time, so please try and keep it special until then! Best wishes to you and Cisca. Mark, Charlie, Evie and Benjamin
6th March 2010

more succes
Hallo Cis and Raf, Wish you both a lot of success in the next ten years. One thing is for sure. When you love this beautiful island, it will be for life.And you will return everytime.Thanks for finding this beautiful place and sharing it with us. Elly Zwiers- Kuypers.
7th March 2010

Ten years!
What a wonderful place you have created. I hope to return soon, and start diving again. Best wishes to you both, Sam
8th March 2010

Modifications to Australian Naval Submarines
Honorable Bey, since your visit, some time ago to an Australian submarine you were greatly critical of the fact that certain markings on engine gauges were denominated with pieces of red dynatape. You would be ,I am sure, be greatly pleased to know that your observations have been passed on to the Kellick (corporal) in charge of submarines. As as a result, you are now a subject of interest to the Australian authorities, including the Australian Feral Police, who are currently attempting to locate the vast Otterman kayak base at Constantinople. Apparently, they are puting the full resources of the Australian intelligence community behind this project, including unlimited use of Google Earth (free trial version) behind the effort. However, in an attempt to avert another Turkish military loss of face in the Australian captured territory of Galipoli; The Australian Navy has changed the offending red tape to Green. Will you please confirm that "bey" means "great fat poofter" as indicated in Lawrence or Arabia's " Seven Pillocks of Wisdom". With great respect: Gregory S. Love, Private, 2nd class, probationary, Officer commanding, Australian defense force Public relations, Photo copier no 3. xxx "
12th March 2010

Oz vs M.K's descendents
Search not the Darn-Daniels for those sea-mines, as any youngster could re-site them before you return. If you had been tracing my recent movements of my Blackberry, you would've discovered that the kayak training bases are next to el-Aurence's final resting-spot on the river Star. Or perhaps at Ottoman St Mary.
28th July 2010

Happy to see this place
Hello, I was born at Mkoani in 1964, studied at N'gombeni girls school till 1979. I am now leaving in Muscat but I hope one day I will be back home. I really missed nice beaches.
10th November 2010

reference to Matt Richmond's book
By chance I game across your interesting story above where you write that "In the Matt Richmond book I read that 90% of East African coral from Mafia to Kenya is dead." Please indicate where in my book (presumably A Field Guide to the Seashores of Eastern Africa..) you find those facts. I am aware that in specific locations, 90% of hard corals died during the 1997-98 El Nino, for example on the outer reef of Misali in the top 15 m, but never would I suggest that 90% of east Africa's corals are dead, far from it! Hope to hear from you. Best wishes, Matt
8th April 2011

Pemba still stunning
Dear Matt, THank you for your comments, your conclusions regarding Pemba and Misali are regretfully mistaken. I would however be very interested in buying a job lot of east african seashores, so do please email me. Raf
11th January 2012

who needs to get saved today on ascension island? RayConder@hotmail.com

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