Zanzibar (Stone Town)

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We finally arrive into Dar El Salaam on the east coast after the mother of all drives. Dar is a place of chaos and we spend a few hours sat around in congested traffic. A few of us throw some goodies out of the windows to soem of the kids - it's a great sight to see how happy some of them are from just some simple gifts.

We camp next to the beach and arrive early enough to catch the last of the sunlight for a swim in the sea - it's towards the end of the hot season so the water is between 28 - 30 degrees celsius, much alike taking a bath!...it's not that often that you have to leave the sea to cool down! We unwind from a long day in the usual way - a few beers at the beach bar! I have probably the most uncomfortable sleep ever - the temperature in the tent is much alike a sauna and the humidity is so high that the sweat just pours out of you.

The next morning we set off for the ferry crossing to Zanzibar - almost missing the main ferry as we were unware there was an initial river crossing which we had to leave! I survive the motion sickness of the crossing (some not, particulalrly Marie the dutch girl who suffered really bad). We arrive into Stone Town with an uncomfortable sight - whilst being retained in the police check compound area, a ship slowly appears from the quayside with smoke coming from the main compartment. This quickly decends into a raging fire with survivors perched on the edge of the ship. Fortunately no passengers were on the ship as the fire was started during routine maintenance and all workers were saved without injury. Have a look at: http://www.dailynews.co.tz/home/?n=8176&cat=home


Stone Town is a devote muslim society and was once the epicentre of the slave trade between Asia and Africa until the British eventually put an end to the trade. Our arrival leaves us just enough time to have a tour of the Town - you could easily get lost amongst the many narrow street and alleyways (so much so that you are storngly advised not to leave the main roads and women must not walk about with a male companion). The most graphic part of the visit is the slavery chambers - these being small cellars where slavers kept up to 75 salves for three days wihtout food and water to 'test their strenght'. The cellars are tiny and the slaves had to lay on top of each other. David Livingstone was a pioneer of putting an end to the slave trade and is highly regarded by all forms of society - not just in Zanzibar but across many parts of Africa. The only Chritian church in the Town is built upon the main sights of the slave trade contains many dedications to Livingstone. We also have a wander around the markets - the smell and sight of the fish and meat markets will never leave me! Lastly, we of course couldn't miss a very quick visit to where Freddie Mercury once lived - time doesn't allow us to go in but I get the obligatory photo!

We have a very pleasant dinner - trying to weave our way through the unlit streets (the power regularly goes out on Zanzibar - until recently they were without any electricity for three months!) Our sleep is broken by prayers between 4.30 - 05.00; these being commenced by a air raid siren then followed by prayers being read over loud speakers throughout the Town. This combined with crows crowing everywhere creates a very surrel environment (my ear plugs have never been so appreciated!) The following day we head to the north coast to Nungwi.

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