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Published: June 19th 2007
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Mark and Mel
MArk and Mel at Kapisha Just a quick note:
I did send already an update including the 16th of June from Iringa (Tanzania), but it was just a quick one while at the internet cafee. The connections are usually very slow. I usually write our blog updates whenever I have electricity at a campsite and upload it including some pictures I have made smaller on my laptop the next time I have access to the internet. So don’t be surprised if the date of sending is later than the blog itself.
All in all we are fine and healthy and full of good spirit. Thanks all our friends worldwide (!) to send us all your good wishes. Please excuse when we do not answer individually, as Internet Cafees in Africa are at yesterdays speed and it would take hours to answer just a few.
Liebe Deutsche Freunde. Wir hoffen Ihr seid uns nicht boese, dass wir nur in Englisch schreiben, aber ausser eingen ganz wenigen verstehen alle gut Englisch und diejenigen die es nicht verstehen haben eine gute Gelegenheit es besser zu lernen, sodass Ihr uns bald besuchen kommen koennt ;o)
12-06-07
Last night we already said good bye to
Mel and Mark after a large dinner of roast leg of lamb and Oude Wellington Grappa. So, early in the morning we hit the road to the border. The travel is long and hilly which slows us down to about 50Km/h. Arriving at the border and leaving Zambia was quite an experience. You cannot imagine the hustling and confusion on that border post. Kazangulu (border crossing between Zambia and Botswana) was well organized in comparison. The money changers run at full speed about a Kilometer next to the car to make the deal, while shouting quotes and promises. The border crossing itself by the officials was fair, friendly and I must say rather efficient. The exit however was confusing and narrow to the point that our left doorstep got caught and bend at the gate, while dozens of people try to sell you stuff, change money, beg and direct you all at the same time. The next step was entering Tanzania. Modern building and all, but a very reluctant officer fishing for opportunity. We felt very strange being asked if we came to pick up work and maybe refused to enter. Eventually visas were issued (100US$) and a road toll
paid. We then had to hunt for a third party insurance. Vanessa did all that she was warned from since childhood, like go with a black man down a dark alley and go into a house of unknown purpose to obtain an insurance. Well, as I write this she has obviously managed it and we are now in possession of an insurance. At first Tanzania strikes one as a hell of a lot more colourful and vibrant in comparison to Zambia. There are hundreds of shops and little markets with an almost Asian variety of goods and services, conducted partly on the streets. Welding things, manufacturing very bright coloured sofas right there to mention just a few. To find suitable camping was not so easy as the maps in the guide book did not quite meet the reality. We eventually found the Utengule Hotel, which is on a coffee plantation, recommended by Mark. The manager Francis let us pop our roof next to the helipad and the tennis court and opened a guest chalet for us to shower and use the toilet. We dined at the restaurant a pleasant but plain meal of pork chop(s).
13-06-07
It was a
Bavarian clocktower
Residuals from German East Africa pleasant stay after the hectic border crossing. We continued our travel to the town of Iringa which has a brief history of German Schutztruppe’n presence with Bavarian style buildings to match. The old watchtower has been converted into a mosk and new burgler bars have been added. The town does not pay special attention to these historical buildings as they quite amazingly just blend in with the rest, which is very colourful and reminds one instantly of an Indian market. The roads are narrow and open sewage channels add to the drivers pleasure of sightseeing as well as negotiating curves and avoiding merchandise piled on the road. The guide book recommended a small cafee cum meeting point in town. All expats and travelers alike are gathered in this microcosmos run by a friendly couple of difficult to assume origin (they look Lebanes or Portugese to me, but they might as well be Indian or from other places). The food wasn’t great but the homemade potato chips are Woolworth quality at half the price. We met the owner of the Riverside campsite that we had already chosen to stay that night.
14-06-07
Second day at the campsite. An other
group of South African travelers (three cars) had unfortunately had an accident and were busy rearranging their stuff into two cars. The campsite is very pleasant and the owners very helpful and knowledgeable. As we are in totally new areas unknown to us, we have to gather as much local information to add to the guide books advise as possible. Road condition, safety and availability of fuel, help etc. are paramount for single car travelers like us. Some advise from Francis was not to use the road from Iringa to Dodoma not even with a landrover. Now Mathew from Riverside Campsite draws a different picture and claims the road to be fair and manageable. Is it because Francis works at a 5star hotel and Mathew deals mainly with campers? These are the kind of opposing info we have to consider and make (hopefully) good decision. So far Vanessa has always found a suitable road and we have been traveling safe and in time. She has, unlike me, a good memory and pronounciation of the local town, river and camp names and can easily convey our route and verify information we gather along the way.
20.06.07
We have made it
to Dar es Alaam, despite thousends of bicyckles and suicidal bus drivers. Overtaking before hilltops being a speciality here. I got a bit mixed up with the dates you might have noticed, but you havn't missed anything as I did report all stages. Last night we stayed at a 4 star hotel (in the parking lot that is) it was the only thing available and it wa getting dark already. The roads are to be negotiated carefully, as very good stretches suddenly have huge potholes or broken down trucks are covering most of it. Last night's dining experience had us eating prawns which turnmed out to be the size of small shrimps or plankton. Today we try again at the Sea Cliff Hotel in Dar Es Alaam from where I am writing this blog. Well the shripms are bigger but still not as we are used to in Cape Town. The views are great and we enjoy every day. We are heading towards Kenya now and are planning to follow the coast. Tonights campsite sounds promising and we maybe will stay afew days "beaching" and dangling the feet in the warm ocean. Otherwise the temperatures are surprisingly cool. Tahnks again all of you for your support and writing to us. Ines, thank you and I love you too. When is Lionel in Kenya ? send a message the same way as the last one.
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Cheryll
non-member comment
The Ocean Again
Hi you two, you seem to be having a blast...... glad to hear it. Nothing like a bit of beach, sea and sand to make it feel like a holiday. You do paint very pretty pictures with your words that we can almost feel that we are on this journey with you. Enjoy and keep safe. Miss ya.