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I got up around 7am Friday morning to head to Stellenbosch, which is in the winelands region just outside Cape Town and home to S.A.’s main university. I took the Backpacker Bus (which charged R180 - about $27), which ended up being basically a private taxi ride—they picked me up at my hostel at the designated time and drove me straight to my accommodation in Stellenbosch—and I had the van to myself. Once we’d gotten out of Cape Town, there were shantytowns—called townships here—as far as the eye could see, stretching out on either side of the freeway. It was like that for nearly the entire rest of the way. (I have since come to learn that it’s pretty much like that outside every town.) It was quite a depressing contrast to cosmopolitan Cape Town.
The scenery around the winelands was just lovely, hilly and green. I got to Stellenbosch around 9am and went to drop my bags at the Stumble Inn, which I think might be the only backpackers in town. It’s a really lovely little place, they have a fantastic garden (where you can camp), a
braai area, a small bar with internet access, tons of comfy couches, a t.v. room, and generally a very relaxing vibe. They have good security—the ubiquitous electric gate as well as a night guard. The emphasis on security in S.A. is pretty striking—every house is surrounded by a wall topped with razor wire, and most have an electric gate and bars on the windows. When speaking to a local he was talking about how much he loved living here—the pay wasn’t as good as it would be elsewhere, but he said it was worth it for the safety.
It’s a good 15-min. walk from the hostel into the main area of town, which has some places to eat and a café and a lovely little park called the braak (where I actually ended up taking a nap!). I walked all over town, heading north where there were tons of discount stores and a street market, and around the university campus. It’s a very picturesque little place with lovely tree-lined streets and some historical buildings. After lunch I took the aforementioned afternoon nap on the braak before heading back for a trickle of a shower before dinner. It gets dark here around 6pm (I have to keep reminding myself - it’s winter here!) and there isn’t much of a taxi system in Stellenbosch, so I ended up eating at the restaurant right across from the hostel. I had actually had my eye on it all day, because it looked like it would be a yummy (but too expensive) place. It was definitely a splurge, but it was SO worth it. One of the best meals I have had in my life. The restaurant is called Umami, which is a term describing a fifth sense of taste “discovered” by some Japanese guy. Sounds a little pretentious I know, but the food was amazing. I got the tasting menu, which involved five courses (each served with its own little wine accompaniment). The place was very hip but also very small so it was nice and quiet, and the service was great. The whole shebang cost R210 ($32).
Are you wondering whether I am getting lonely yet? Because I am! Especially when a) I’m in a romatic kind of place, and/or b) there are cute-sy couples nearby being irritatingly adorable. But I’m hanging in there! That and Josh’s Skype account is getting a serious workout this month. (We have yet to develop a system for Paraguay-to-Malawi calls, though—if anyone has some creative ideas let us know!) I have realized I am also taking a lot less photos, since it's not as fun to take pictures without human subjects! I have been meeting other travelers in most places I go, although it’s the low season so there’s rarely more than one or two besides me. I especially enjoy talking to locals whenever possible, which is usually pretty easy since most people along the coast speak English and are extremely friendly. But I think I have read every single page of my Lonely Planet East Africa…I am definitely in need of some new material 😊.
Next is Mossel Bay…
Love,
Martina
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Kristin Flood
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I did that trip alone and totally relate. When I was in Spain by myself, I was really into being alone for three days, then I got really lonely, but by day five or six, I was really into it again and was for the rest of the trip. Just try to meet people, get up early, write in your journal a lot, take lots of pictures and remember that you are getting to do the EXACT trip that YOU want to do. No compromising! That's what's nice about being alone. Take care, be safe, have a wonderful time, I miss you! K