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Published: October 2nd 2011
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Surfer
Not Mark - yet! There is talk of a revival K- 8 weeks on and we are back in Stellenbosch celebrating our seven year wedding anniversary..... and no - sorry, I have no tips about avoiding the 7 year itch except that upping sticks and traveling around the world doesn't seem to be doing any harm (or at least keep him/me in sight most of the time!)
We loved it so much here that we have come back for a couple of nights (with a rented car!) and are treating ourselves to several gourmet lunches at various vineyards. Today's extravaganza was at Jordan Vineyards - stunning views, and rabbit ravioli with broad bean and asparagus (me), mussels en papillote (Mark); pork with baby beets etc etc (Mark); artichokes with barley, sunflower, smoked artichoke heart etc (me); fabulous Jordan sauvignon blanc and "The Prospector" 2008.................and for dinner- steak and kidney pies from the BP garage! We are nothing if not flexible.
On that note I should also add that due to travel budget constraints plus traveling credibility we are tonight staying in a backpackers. Poor us......except not so much. Backpacking is not that hard in South Africa as the hostels are pretty impressive and at this time of the year
Another hard day at the office
Little Karroo - Springflield Estate Winerary often empty. For example, in Jeffrey's Bay last Monday we had an en suite King bed room, with an ocean view balcony in an immaculate self catering apartment where we didn't even see or hear the other couple in the other room in the apartment - for R350 (about $45)! And tonight is pretty similar albeit without the sea and the view...but for R280 ($35) who is complaining?! All the more budget to spend on lunches .....
After the excitement of our breakdown we were pleased to have an uneventful but enjoyable trip back to Cape Town. Driving down the coast from the bottom of the Wild Coast we elected not to drive the full Garden Route (per our friends: touristy and not that big a deal) but instead to swing inland just before Mossell Bay and head down the Little Karroo, an inland mountain route. It proved to be a good call - the scenery was fantastic, mountains and spring flowers in abundance, the roads were good (not mountain passes as feared) and we stopped for a couple of great lunches in small, Dutch style farm towns which was another new experience on our trip.
We had
a couple of great last hurrah's on the camping front too - on Tuesday we stayed at Victoria Bay where we were the sole campers at a site on top of the cliff overlooking a surfing beach (and surfers......). We braaied (barbecued) and sat by the fire under the stars listening to the surf......magical. The following night we camped at Warmwaterberg - a farm on top of a warm water spring (the Boers weren't exactly imaginative when it came to place names!). Although the camping facilities were basic there were 2 natural hot water pools where we relaxed our weary traveling limbs for a good few hours. We have had a great time and there is no doubt that we will miss our little tent which has been a wonderful home from home for 2 gypsies of no fixed abode.
Today we also visited Robbens Island, home of many political prisoners, including Nelson Mandela, during the apartheid years. It was interesting but I feel so much more could be done with the site. There is an internationally renowned apartheid museum in Johannesburg which I intend to visit next time we come to S Africa (and I really expect there
Victoria Bay
On our own over the Bay to be a next time) and I was disappointed that Robbens Island did not really explore the history of "the struggle" - so much potential to really make it come to life. That said it was still impactful- mainly because our guides were ex-political prisoners.
A final aside - after greeting his car with a big hug our friend threw a welcome home gig for us ........"the Crunch" were fantastic ("speed cats" aka "Love Cats" by The Cure will forever be a memory) and we had a great night. Unfortunately due to our travels we had no clean underwear to throw at the stage but our intentions were good.
And basically that's that - Southern Africa has been fantastic but on Wednesday we leave Cape Town and head to Nepal, via Dubai, and then on to India. Watch this space....!
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