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Published: October 6th 2005
After reading my last journal entry you might have mixed feelings. You might agree that it does suck that we aren’t going to Kenya anymore, but at the same time you might just want to slap me on the face and say, “Get with it! You’re going all over the world!” I had this same dilemma inside, but I really was down that day when I wrote that entry. As nice as our ship is there is a lot that you are cut away from. When there is down time there really isn’t too much to do. You can’t just go out and get some food or flick on the TV. We are living in a confined area that is really small. Even though it is really small at the same time it is easy to feel lost here. Sometimes I’ll just go out on the deck and feel the breeze on my face and ask myself what the heck I am doing on a ship in the middle of the ocean. I have an infinite new respect for people who spend even longer amounts of time at sea with far less amenities.
Now to the more interesting stuff. After having such a gray couple of days, our first day in South Africa would more than make up for it. We had decided (I’m not really sure where the idea came from, but apparently many people had it too) that we should get up at 6:00am to see the sunrise. I had yet to see what has been claimed to be a magnificent experience on the ship, so why not make my entry into South Africa even more grandiose. When my alarm started beeping at 6:00am I just laid in bed and contemplated whether or not I really wanted to get up. Shortly after I head voices and giggles in the hallway and got up to check it out. As soon as I opened the door Christine, more awake than should be allowed at that hour, announced it was time to go! So I reluctantly grabbed by cameras and we headed upstairs. When we got up to the 7th deck I was amazed at the number of people that were already up there. It appeared as though some people had even slept out there the night before. Inside the faculty/staff lounge many people were warmly sipping coffee as they watched the others huddling outside in the windy cold. We decided to go out and face the elements to secure a premium photo spot. At the logistical Pre-port the night before we were told that we weren’t even going to see land until 7:00am, so when we went out and saw the massive mountain ranges in the distance we were very excited. After a cold and windy half hour we finally witnessed the energizing scene of the sun peaking over one of the most beautiful landscapes I had ever seen. This sunrise was in tough competition with when I was one of the first people to see the sunrise in the Continental United States when I stood on top of Cadillac Mountain one summer morning in Maine. It was incredible.
That morning after breakfast we stood on the deck and watched as we pulled into the waterfront of Cape town, South Africa. Everything was amazing. The port is very modern and reminded me a lot of the seaport in New York City, except NYC doesn’t have the amazing Table Mountain as a backdrop. It is obviously a working fishermen’s port and there were tons of boats and smiling faces greeting us. When we got off the ship we just kept being greeted with new surprises, like the huge mall and great restaurants within walking distance of the ship. We decided that Table Mountain should be our first stop in Cape Town. So the 6 of us piled into a taxi/van like thing (which you would never find in the US) and made our way to the cable station at the base of the mountain. As we were standing in line Yukari said that she was thinking about just buying a one way ticket up and might walk down. I agreed that it might be fun and did the same, as did Christine and Kate. At the top the view was awesome. We took lots of pictures and walked around quiet a bit and then made our decision that we would hike down. We had met some SAS people who had already hiked up and they said it shouldn’t take us too long. The beginning of the trail was very steep and should have turned on a light bulb in my head and I probably should have turned around considering my hip replacements. But, I trudged on. We would soon find out that the trail was entirely composed of granite boulder steps, which were very hard on the joints, not to mention you had to be continually conscious of where you were stepping as one wrong step could send you tumbling. The view the entire way down was breathtaking, but the trail was never ending. We kept thinking we were getting closer and closer, but every one we met coming up kept saying the bottom was at least an hour away. I had to take the path very slow, so Kate and Christine went on ahead and Yukari and I stayed back. As we kept going we hoped that when Kate and Christine finally made it to the bottom they wouldn’t wait for us, as we knew we had to be at least an hour behind them. Finally, at least four hours after we had began the ascent; Yukari and I made it, hobbling, to the cable station. It was by far the hardest hike I had ever gone on, meaning at the end, even though I could hardly walk it was one of the biggest accomplishments I had made since my hip surgeries. We decided to get some ice cream before getting a taxi back to the ship, and since we did not find Kate and Christine at the bottom we just assumed they had gone back. As we were heading to the shop a man approached me. I just assumed he was a taxi driver, which he was, but he asked if my name was Ashley. I stopped dead in my tracks and looked at him and glanced down at a piece of paper he had in his hands. On it, in Kate’s handwriting was a description: Ashley- white, dark hair, blue sweatshirt Yukari- Japanese, gray sweatshirt. Tell them we’ll meet them at the ship. I was amazed. How did this guy find me?!?! He was so relieved when he found out it was me, and said that our friends had waited a long time, and were very worried, but that the tall one (we’re assuming Christine, but it could have been either of them) was hungry so he had driven them back to the ship and would take us back too. It was just so surreal. When we got back to the ship we found our other friends who had opted not to hike down and asked where Kate and Christine were. They looked at us strangely and said they were supposed to be with us. We sighed and told them the story. We eventually decided to leave them a note and go and get something to eat. On the way out we say them and after hugs were exchanged we shared our experience and sympathized with each other as we had difficulty walking up and down the stairs and, well, walking in general. It certainly was a great experience. Though I only felt physical reminders of it for a few rough days after I think I will remember it emotionally well after I have left South Africa.
The next day I went on a Nature tour. Yukari and Christine went too and we were able to commiserate with each other as we walked up and down the paths and steps of the Kristenbosch botanical gardens. The gardens were beautiful, despite it being the end of the South African winter and my seemingly inability to walk. After we went to the Groot Constantia wine estate for a wine tasting. Cape Town is known for its extensive wine lands. The estate was beautiful and the wine tasting was really fun. I now have some favorites to look for when I get home! After the tasting we went to Hout Bay for an hour cruise out to seal island. Even though I was becoming accustomed to life on the water this was by far the rockiest and scariest boat rides I had ever been on. When we finally got to seal island we got to see the seals for which it is properly named and then came back. It was quiet a touristy day, but fun nonetheless.
The next day I went with my friends and waited with them in the tourist office as they tried to book excursions for the rest of our stay in Cape Town. It had been decided that we would be staying in Cape Town two days longer and would be porting in Mauritius (a small island off the coast of Madagascar) for three days to make up for not porting in Kenya. There were all kinds of choices for activities; Cape Town really is a great place to go on vacation. After at least an hour they made their selections which included horseback riding through the wine lands, sand boarding, shark diving and skydiving. None of these activities comply with my Doctor’s orders and I felt like I had already done enough to my body with the Table Mountain experience, so I refrained from spending my saved safari money. That was kind of hard, but I got over it.
The next notable thing I did was on Friday when I went on Operation Hunger. We visited two townships, which are basically shantytowns. Basically these people were driven out of their homes, or had none to begin with before the apartheid and have taken up land wherever they can. There are some “streets” but for the most part there are just houses everywhere. The kids came to greet the bus as soon as they heard us coming. When we got off we were led into their small, but new, community center and learned more about the area from they mayor. In these towns it is the women who are in charge, basically because there is a lack of men because they are off working as much as possible in other areas of South Africa. We then divided up into groups and went to see some of the people and houses. It was hard to keep up with the group leader at times because there were so many kids and they all wanted their pictures taken and wanted the stickers and toys we had brought for them. Finally we made it to our destination, a one and a half room shack made out of various materials with a plastic lined roof and newspaper insulated walls. Inside the dark house there was a man lying on the bed, his wife next to him. He was nothing but bones and could hardly lift his head enough to acknowledge our presence. He had AIDS and TB. It was emotional and awkward. How do you react in this situation? I was at a loss for words, and that was ok considering the language differences, so I merely put my palms together and told him I would pray for him. The look in his eyes told me he understood.
On the way back to the bus we were almost pushed over by little kids. Bailey had brought pez and was fighting to hand them out. I was standing away from the crowd and taking her picture when one of the little boys I had given a friendship bracelet to came up to be and asked for a sweet. I yelled over to Bailey and said that this boy was being very polite and that I needed some pez for him. He thanked me proceeded to stay by my side for the rest of the walk back. I had brought my Polaroid camera with me and the kids loved it. The hard thing was that there was no way I had enough film to give them each a picture. When we got back to the community center I took it out again and some of the kids recognized it instantly. I motioned with my hand that they should come with me and put my finger to my lips indicating that we needed to be quiet about it. They got very excited and imitated my action and huddled around me showing they understood that I didn’t want to attract a big group. I took their pictures, including one for my new little friend, and they thanked me and quickly put them in their pockets. I took a few more pictures with my film camera, a concept the kids really don’t like, and then it was time to get back on the bus. I gave the boy in the blue shirt a hug and left. It was sad. I wish I had at least found out his name.
We then stopped for lunch even though a lunch from the ship had been provided for us. The group leader said that if we wanted we could collect up what we didn’t eat and could pass it out to the kids at the next township. As soon as we got there the kids hoarded around the bus. We put them in a line and handed each one an item from a lunch. It was sad to see how excited they were. One of the programs of Operation Hunger is to weigh the kids in different villages. According to our guide, all children before age 7 have a set weight. If they are under this weight they are malnourished. There are other signs of malnourishment, which he explained to us. You can’t always tell. I got out my Polaroid again at this township but only took pictures of adults. At times they were more excited than the kids when they realized they could keep the picture. I’m glad I could provide that.
I realize I have already written a lot, but we were in South Africa for a week and I managed to do a lot in that time. On Saturday I went to the District 6 museum. It is dedicated to the district 6 community that was forced to leave their homes during the apartheid because that area of land was now designated for whites only. Families got torn apart as they were separated into townships based on skin color. An Arab man had to go to the police station to see his black wife and family who lived miles away. It is incredible to see and hear what human beings have done to one another. The funny thing is that after the end of the apartheid in 1994 things got remarkably better. Thanks to Nelson Mandela, Archbishop Desmond Tutu, and the Truth and Reconciliation Commission, oppressed people reacted to their freedom not with revenge but with forgiveness. South Africa could have been a bloody civil war in the early 1990s, but it wasn’t. These people understand that revenge is not the answer. Now look at the US, decades after our civil rights conflicts and we are still dealing with these issues. Don’t believe me? Go watch the movie Crash.
The next day I went with Lauren to the District 6 museum. All throughout the Apartheid people were moved from their homes in order to accommodate the whites. A community known as District 6 was completely disbanded. Families were split up and sent to different townships. An Arab man had to get a police order in order to see his black wife and children who now lived miles away. It is incredible to think of what lengths one group of people will do to ensure their dominance over another group.
On my last day in port I went to Robben Island, the site of the prison where Nelson Mandela was held. Before coming to Cape Town I had it in my head that I really should visit Robben Island, and I am really glad I did. The island itself is quite peaceful now that the prison has been closed and turned into a museum. First we went on a bus tour and then met up with our guide, a former inmate, for a tour of the prison. The only word I can use to describe this experience is powerful. I wish Kristy had been there, given her newfound interest in prisons. On the way out we were rushing to catch our ferry back, but we did manage to go on the penguin boardwalk to see the thousands of penguins on the beach. I saw little South African penguins! They were so cute. Wish Megan could have been there!
Robben Island was a nice finish to my stay here in South Africa. It put into perspective what this place means and the rich heritage and way of life it encompasses. There are so many things to do here! I wish I had had a month (and an unlimited budget!) There is no doubt I will be coming back.
I was reading for our Global Studies class (yes, there is still class) last night and part of our reading was an excerpt from Kofi Anan’s Nobel Lecture. I’ve decided after reading this one, Jimmy Carter’s, and writings by Archbishop Desomond Tutu that I really do want to get involved with peace efforts. Their words are so powerful, uplifting and hopeful. Here is my homework for you: Read something written by one of these men, or anyone else who advocates peace. Then reflect on it and help put it into action. Kofi Anan made a good point in saying “ A genocide begins with the killing of one man not for what he has done but because of who he is. A campaign for ‘ethnic cleansing’ begins with one neighbor turning on another. Poverty begins when one child is denied his or her fundamental right to education.” If one act can cause hate and poverty then one act can certainly initiate peace. If we all start thinking and acting peacefully in our own lives then maybe we can speed up the process to world peace. It is more than just a beauty queen’s dream; it is the future.
Well that’s all from me for now, I’m sure you’re tired of reading anyways, if you’ve even made it this far. Please send me comments and messages! I would really like to know who is reading, and if you’re lucky I’ll send you a postcard!
Peace,
The butterfly traveler
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non-member comment
This is your best blog yet! I love the Miss Congeniality reference.