Cosmopolitan Cape Town - South Africa, May 2018

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Cosmopolitan Cape Town – South Africa, May 2018



Whenever I’m on my way back to South Africa, the long grueling flights across the world don’t faze me a bit – I’m returning to my favorite continent and city - that’s all that matters. My day did start early with a 6am departure from Las Vegas, so I plan to nap for most of the red-eye flight over the Atlantic, enroute to Amsterdam. I’ll save my movie watching for the 11-hour flight on to Cape Town, where I land in the evening hours. I’m spending the first few days at the downtown Hilton, which is just two blocks from Long Street, the very heart and center of the city. The hotel had arranged my airport transfer and the driver was waiting as I exited baggage claim. Being back in the southern hemisphere with approaching winter time, the temps are down in the low 50’s, but a cool and refreshing change after long hours inflight. I was checked into my suite on the 7^th floor and enjoying a cool shower by 10:30pm…. the king size bed was calling my name, and I was face down shortly thereafter, for hours of delicious and recuperative sleep.



I first fell in love with this country as a direct result of reading Wilbur Smith’s novels, which specialize in historical fiction about the international involvement in Southern Africa across four centuries, seen from the viewpoints of both black and white families. He has a home on the far side of Table Mountain and spends a lot of his time right here in Cape Town. He has to be the greatest travel author regarding Africa who ever lived, in my humble opinion.



Outsiders' views of South Africa are colored by the same stereotypes as the rest of Africa. Contrary to popular belief, South Africa is not devastatingly poor with an unstable government. It is to a large extent, two countries within one. On the one hand it is a first world state, especially the major cities such as Cape Town and Johannesburg, and on the other, it’s under-developed and has large scale poverty. South Africa is one of the most unequal countries in the world, where opulence and severe poverty can often be observed together. The rural part of South Africa remains among the poorest and the least developed parts of the world and poverty in the townships can be appalling, however progress is being made. The process of recovering from apartheid, which lasted almost 46 years, is quite slow. In fact, South Africa's United Nations Human Development Index which was slowly improving in the final years of apartheid, has declined dramatically since 1996, largely due to the AIDS pandemic, and poverty levels appear to be on the increase. South Africa boasts a well-developed infrastructure and has all the modern amenities and technologies, much of it developed during the years of white minority rule. It is a vast country with widely varying landscapes and has 11 official languages, as well as an equally diverse population. South Africa is renowned for its wines and is one of the world's largest producers of gold. The country has the strongest economy in Africa and is an influential player in African politics. In 2010, it hosted the first Football World Cup to be held on the African continent.



A little bit of history:



The tip of Africa has been home to the Khoisan, collective name for Hottentot (Koi) and Bushmen (San) people for thousands of years. Their rock art can still be found in many places throughout SA. It is estimated that Bantu tribes may have started to slowly expand into the northernmost areas of what is today Southern Africa around 2,500 years ago and by 500 AD, the different cultural groups had been established in the lush areas to the north and east of the what is today known as Eastern South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. The first Europeans to reach South Africa were the Portuguese, who named the end of the country "Cape of Good Hope" in 1488, when they managed to sail around it to reach India. Permanent European settlement was only built at Cape Town after the Dutch East India Company reached the Cape of Good Hope in April 1652. In the late 1700s, the Boer (Dutch for farmers) slowly started expanding first eastward along the coastline and later upwards into the interior. By 1795, Britain took control of the Cape because of the Napoleonic wars. In 1820 a large group of British settlers arrived in the region. In 1835, large numbers of Boers started out on the Groot Trek (the great migration) into the interior, after becoming dissatisfied with British rule. In the interior, they established their own internationally recognized republics. Some Boers were initially able to get along with the locals, and in other areas Boers clashed badly with native populations (especially the Zulu). On December 16,1838 a badly outnumbered Boer unit slaughtered over 3,000 Zulus at the Battle of Blood River, in what is now KwaZulu-Natal.



I had left the blackout curtains open and was greeted just after 8am, with a marvelous sunrise thru my ceiling-to-floor windows overlooking the pool and city center. Table Mountain soars above me on one side, Lion’s Head on the other…. talk about incredible views! First up on my agenda was coffee and lots of it. Normally Hilton’s executive lounge is located on one of the executive floors, but not here in Cape Town. It’s accessed via the ground floor and is one of the most attractive I have visited in the past couple of years. It used to be an Indian restaurant, but due to overwhelming need for additional seating space, it was converted just 6 months ago into the fabulous lounge it is today. Grabbing a table overlooking the street, I got to people-watch while pouring vital caffeine down my throat and continuing the struggle to get both eyes open. A small buffet is available with limited choices but with an onsite Halal kitchen, breakfast in any style is prepared to order. I went with Eggs Benedict, they were excellent. English language newspaper, International CNN on the large television screen and a mug of steaming cappuccino in hand…. all’s right in my world so far. The lounge is open every day, offering an “afternoon tea” at 2:30pm with sweet goodies to die for, Happy Hour around 5pm (wine and hard liquor, just help yourself…. I believe I will, multiple times, thanks), and dinner canapes served until 9pm. The lounge staff are simply a delight – lovely, friendly people who really know the meaning of the words “customer service”. Nothing is too much trouble and every request is handled with a smile and a genuine desire to please….I have fallen in love with the place and will be spending many hours in here over the coming days.



Weather is holding fantastic, despite the forecasted cloudy skies with rain and low temps – just the opposite – clear blue skies, warm sunlight and zero precipitation. Simply ideal for my planned sightseeing and as usual, it’s the HOHO bus once again. The hotel operates an hourly complimentary shuttle service down to the V&A Waterfront…works out wonderfully, as that is also the location of HOHO’s main office and the Two Oceans Aquarium, both of which are on today’s agenda.



The Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet with great triumph at the southern tip of Africa, and what better place to celebrate the diverse marine life in these two vast habitats, than where it all comes together, in Cape Town. Here the Two Oceans Aquarium showcases the different oceans’ wildlife through interactive displays and over 3,000 marine animals. There are several display galleries, all of which are enthralling. These rich aquatic displays include the Atlantic Ocean Gallery, Indian Ocean Gallery, I&J Predator Exhibit (keep an eye out for the resident turtle called Yoshi), the Sappi River Meander, and Kelp Forest Exhibit. Walking between galleries, I was thrilled to see sharks, penguins, seahorses, jellyfish, and too many fish species to count. Open 365 days a year, 9:30am/6pm weekdays and 9:00am/6pm on weekends, it’s a steal deal at only R175 ($14.28) for adult tickets and R130 ($10.60) for kids (credit cards accepted). The entire complex is large with multiple galleries and more photo ops than you can shake a stick at. Always loved spending time in aquariums and Cape Town’s is well worth a few hours of exploration.



For anyone coming to Cape Town on an initial visit, the V&A Waterfront is THE tourist place as a starting point. It’s a hub of activity - here, you’ll find restaurants, shops, entertainment, adventure, accommodation—there’s a reason it’s so popular after all. It has so much to offer anyone, it might as well be considered a neighborhood unto itself. Contrary to popular belief, its name is not Victoria and Albert but Victoria and Alfred Waterfront. This oldest working harbor in South Africa is named for Queen Victoria and her second son Prince Alfred, who first visited here in 1860 as a 16-year-old Royal Navy Midshipman. He made a big impression on the locals on this first-ever visit by a member of the royal family, and as a result, his name became part of the official harbor designation. It is also probably one of the best and safest places to make currency exchanges – all outlets are officially accredited - and where I always turn my US dollars into Rand.



My most favorite steal deal is the HOHO bus…..if you really want to see the entire Cape Town Colony at rock bottom prices, this is the way to do it! One and Two-Day tickets are available for purchase (quite often at a discount when bought online) starting around $16.70/adult tickets and $8.35/kids (credit cards accepted at offices on Long Street and at the Aquarium), with unlimited daily use. I generally opt for the 2-day ticket for the simple reason this includes a sunset picnic tour to Signal Hill and a choice of either a 30-minute V&A Seal and Harbor cruise or a trip on the Cape Town Canal, complimentary. Both tickets include unlimited HOHO riding on the four (red, blue, yellow and the purple wine tour) designated routes, with audio commentary available in 15 languages. Buses run at 15-minute intervals with numerous stops around the entire city – you can board and purchase a ticket at any of these bus stops. Times vary but for the most part, buses begin at 9am daily and run until around 6pm, depending on the season.



As a big fan of fish ‘n chips, I’m always on the lookout for the best available – Fisherman’s Lane is one of them in Cape Town. This restaurant chain came highly recommended by Paul the hotel concierge, who is also a fan of this famous English staple. A fantastic meal is available (same menu at all 5 locations within the city) of hake or snoek and chips for R54.50 ($4.44) – yeah, SA is very cheap, especially when it comes to food and liquor! Available plain or spicy and do make sure you get plenty of Mr. Royker’s spice and sauce piled on the food. A great meal to chow down on – I’m returning later in the week for another helping. Open every day from 9am to 9pm – credit cards accepted.



Spending an entire day on a Cape Peninsula tour gives a more in-depth perspective to the region known as the Western Cape, and not just the city of Cape Town. My day begins with a drive to Cape Point at the southwestern end of the peninsula. While Cape Town is often considered to be at the tip of the African continental land mass, that’s not geographically correct. It is actually a few miles northwest, facing west out over Table Bay. The true tip is called Cape Agulhas (about a 4-hour drive away), but most visitors are more than satisfied with Cape Point and the surrounding False Bay…. it’s still at the end of a continent after all! The views are simply spectacular - steep mountains, secluded coves, and sweeping beaches far as the eye can see. This is THE place for photographs which will stun your friends and neighbors back home.



On the back side of Table Bay lie a number of beautiful Atlantic Ocean bays (Bantry, Clifton, Camps), but my favorite must be Hout’s Bay, which began life as a fishing village eons ago, and is now one of Cape Town’s best kept secrets. It’s a great neighborhood for delicious food, decent beer, a fantastic long sandy beach especially for swimming and surfing, craft markets and even a couple of museums thrown in for good measure. What more could an international tourist ask for? It’s easily accessible, even the HOHO bus stops right in the center, and it’s here the locals party on weekends.



When exploring the peninsula and it’s close to lunch time, there is only place to eat as far as I’m concerned, and that’s in Simon’s Town, home to the South African Navy. Located on the shores of False Bay, it was been a naval base and harbor for more than two centuries. Named after Simon van der Stel, an early governor of the Cape Colony, it was founded in 1680, with many of the historic buildings dating back to the Victorian era. The most popular attraction in Simon's Town is the penguin colony at Boulders Beach – one of only three mainland colonies of African penguins in the country. This is definitely another “must see” destination…. a sheltered cove of soft white sand, massive granite boulders and – being on the Indian Ocean side of the peninsula – water that’s a little warmer than the icy temperatures of Atlantic Ocean beaches. The penguins are viewed in their natural habitat via wooden walkways, and their entertaining antics are always a delight and not to mention, a fantastic opportunity to photograph these little ”head waiters” waddling around.



A perfect way to finish a day of peninsula exploring is to head to the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, located at the foot of Table Mountain. These gardens are proof that not all gardens were created equal. Regarded as one of the great botanic gardens of the world, Kirstenbosch – or rather, the land on which it sits — was bequeathed to the government by Cecil John Rhodes. At that time, it was nothing more than ramshackle farmland overrun with pigs. In 1913 a botanist called Harold Pearson set about transforming the land into a botanic garden devoted to the country’s indigenous flora. It now contains over 7,000 species of plants from southern Africa. The 1304-acre Kirstenbosch Estate (which includes the Garden) falls under the Cape Floristic Region, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Kirstenbosch includes a fragrance garden, a medicinal garden, a garden that features 2,500 species of plants found on the Cape Peninsula, a Protea garden (best seen in spring), a braille trail, and a cycad amphitheater. There is also a glasshouse – the Botanical Society Conservatory – which houses plants from the continent’s more arid regions. To immerse yourself in all that the Garden has to offer, it is worth taking one of the free guided tours that depart from the Visitors’ Center at 11am and 2pm Monday thru Saturday. If these times don’t work, audio guides are also available. Wear really, really comfortable shoes – you don’t realize how much walking you end up doing, until your feet are screaming for relief!



All that walking will also work up an appetite, and if you haven’t packed a picnic (and who does that these days?) – there are a number of options for satiating your hunger. Visit the African themed Moyo restaurant for a hearty lunch, or pop into the Kirstenbosch Tea Room for scones, cake and cucumber sandwiches. You can even pick up a picnic hamper from either of these restaurants. For a quick coffee fix, Vida e Caffe has you covered.



While the Garden is spectacular all year round, you’ll see the fynbos at its best from August to November. However, summer has its own charm in the form of the Summer Sunset Concerts every Sunday evening – and the open-air Galileo Cinema on Wednesday evenings. It would take days if not weeks to cover this fascinating place from end to end, so be realistic and keep it to a couple of hours at most….you can always return, again and again.



Today I’m returning to my two most favorite places of all in Cape Town: riding to the top of Table Mountain and sailing over to Robben Island. I once said I would never step onboard one of the island ferries again in life, but time has softened my attitude (well, somewhat), so gripping all courage in both hands, it’s once more into the breech! For those who have stood in awe on the summit of Table Mountain – no explanation needed here. For those who haven’t, this flat-topped mountain is the most recognized landmark in Cape Town and is home to a large array of fauna and flora, most of which is endemic. Towering some 3,258’ above the city and around 500 million years in the making, Table Mountain is a playground for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts alike. Once an island, now boasting more plant species per square mile than a tropical jungle, this monolith begs exploration. Trails run the length and breadth of the mountain, offering exceptional hiking for all levels of experience and fitness. But most visitors choose the easy way to the top, via cable car. The ride is a gentle one, the rotating state-of-the-art gondolas taking visitors from the lower station to the top in around 5 minutes. It operates seven days a week and trips occur within 10 to 15 minutes of each other. The time of the day’s last excursion varies throughout the year. Atop the mountain is a self-service buffet café with a decent Wifi signal available. From here you are 3,500’ above the city and in this unique location, you find rock hyrax, lizards, butterflies and the odd porcupine. There is also a wide array of birdlife from eagles to sunbirds flying above great patches of fynbos, the Cape’s indigenous flora. Of course, all this is marvelous but nothing and I do mean nothing, compares with the breathtaking and simply awesome views attained by standing on this massive plateau. The entire cape and tip of the continent lies beneath your feet for miles in all directions. Watch as climatic changes sweep across Table Bay, sunlight gleaming at the confluence of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans and reflecting off long, tumultuous roller waves crashing against the rocks. The city sparkles in the bowl-shaped valley, surrounded by Lion’s Head, Signal Hill and Table Mountain, resembling a tiny village so far below. A little bit of excitement on my visit today. A small fire had erupted close to the summit, with billowing smoke waving like a flag above the plateau. As I ascended in the gondola, my camera was working overtime and I was able to capture the flames from the fissure. It wasn’t long before the fire trucks arrived to deal with it, and it didn’t interfere with tourists riding to the top.



Located just 5 miles off the coast, out in Table Bay, lies Robben Island. The name is Dutch for "seal island” and was declared a World Heritage Site in 1999. It’s flat and only a few feet above sea level, as a result of an ancient erosion event. Nobel Laureate and former President of South Africa Nelson Mandela was imprisoned there for 18 of the 27 years he served behind bars, prior to the fall of apartheid. To date, three former inmates of Robben Island have gone on to become President of South Africa: Nelson Mandela, Kgalema Motlanthe, and Jacob Zuma.



For centuries it was used as a penal colony, primarily for political prisoners. Although its maximum-security prisons have now closed, the island remains famous for obvious reasons. In 1997 Robben Island was turned into a museum, and it has become an extremely important symbol for the new South Africa, reflecting the triumph of good over evil, and of democracy over apartheid. Tours, led by ex-political prisoners who once experienced the horrors of the island firsthand, last approximately 3.5 hours, including the ferry trip to and from Robben Island, a bus tour of the island and a tour of the prison. Tickets can be booked online or purchased directly from ticket counters at the V&A Waterfront. Tours often sell out quickly (especially on weekends), so it's advisable to book in advance. Robben Island ferries depart from the Nelson Mandela Gateway, and timings change according to the season. Make sure to arrive at least 20 minutes ahead of your scheduled departure, because there's a very interesting exhibit in the waiting hall that gives a good overview of the island's history. Since the late 17th Century, the island has also served as a leper colony and as a military base.



The ferry ride to Robben Island takes around 30 minutes, and with the large “roller” waves it can get quite rough, so those suffering from seasickness should consider taking medication beforehand. If the weather gets very bad the ferries won't sail, and the tours are cancelled. Such a pleasant surprise for me: gone are the decrepit ferries of old. In their place, are modern catamaran speed boats, with seats located inside out of the weather and it’s actually comfortable! Arriving at the island’s jetty, the trip begins with an hour-long bus tour of the island. During this time, the guide will begin the story of the island's history and ecology. You stop at the limestone quarry where Mandela and other prominent ANC members spent many years doing hard labor. At the quarry, the guide will point out the cave that doubled as the prisoners' bathroom. It was in this cave that some of the more educated prisoners would teach others how to read and write by scratching in the dirt. History, politics and biology were amongst the subjects taught at this "prison university", and it is said that a good part of South Africa's current constitution was written there. It was the only place that prisoners were able to escape the watchful eyes of the guards. After the bus tour, the guide will lead you to the maximum-security prison, where more than 3,000 political prisoners were held from 1960 - 1991. If your tour guide on the bus wasn't an ex-political prisoner, your guide for this part of the tour certainly will be. It is incredibly humbling to hear stories of prison life from someone who experienced it firsthand, and it is certainly not for everyone. Keep in mind the subject matter of this place before bringing very young and/or sensitive people on this adventure – it can be disturbing.



The tour starts at the entrance of the prison where the men were processed, given a set of prison clothes and assigned a cell. The offices of the prison include a prison "court" and a censorship office where every letter sent to and from the prison was read. My guide explained that he used to write letters home using as much slang as possible, so that the censors couldn't understand what was written. The tour also includes a visit to the courtyard where Mandela later tended a small garden. It was here that he clandestinely started writing his famous autobiography “Long Walk to Freedom”.



On the tour you will be shown into at least one of the communal prison cells. Here, you can see the prisoners' bunk beds and feel the pitifully thin mats and blankets. In one block, there is an original sign displaying the prisoners' daily menu. In a prime example of apartheid racism, food portions were assigned to prisoners based on their skin color. You will also be taken to the single cell in which Mandela lived for a time, although prisoners were routinely moved for security reasons. Although communication between the communal cell blocks was forbidden, you will also hear from your guide how prisoners came up with ingenious ways in which to continue their fight for freedom from within these prison walls.



As with Table Mountain, all this plays second fiddle to what nature provides in the way of incredible vistas of mountain, land, city and ocean. Just standing at the water’s edge on Robben Island and gazing back to Cape Town, will afford you views that are simply incomparable to anything else. Have your camera ready as waves smash onto nearby rocks, throwing up mass sprays and framing Cape Town, Table Mountain, the entire continental tip, and ocean in a picture-perfect photo opportunity. Seagulls scream their displeasure at your presence from high above, and if you’re really lucky, you may even spot a sunbathing seal. Robben Island is a “must not miss” destination when in Cape Town – you won’t regret it.



No trip to this region is complete without a visit to the world-famous winelands of South Africa, and this is where I spend my final day in the Western Cape. Traveling inland and northeast from Cape Town lies the Boland, meaning “upland”. It’s a superb wine-producing area and is without a doubt, the best known in South Africa. The magnificent mountain ranges around Stellenbosch and Franschhoek provide ideal microclimates for the vines. There’s been colonial settlements here since the latter half of the 17th century, when the Dutch first founded Stellenbosch, and the French Huguenots settled in Franschhoek. Along with Paarl, these 3 towns make up the core of the Winelands, but there are many more places in the region to explore.



Having been here on previous occasions, I look forward to visiting my favorite again (Fairview Estates), also known as the goat vineyard (more goats in residence than previously – a batch of new kids were born just a few weeks ago). They make their own goat cheese varieties and fresh breads daily….these, along with a bottle of their Vin Rose, make me a happy camper! They ship cases of excellent product worldwide at surprisingly reasonable rates and yes, I’m on their mailing list.



The other two vineyards on the menu for today (Grand Provence and Delheim) proved to also be outstanding….both were new to me and they will be joining Fairview on my current list of favorites for future visits. It was another delightful day in the Winelands even if the weather wasn’t exactly cooperating at times. Rain came down to wet the streets around lunchtime, but nothing to really get excited about – certainly nowhere near enough to make even a slight dent in the drought situation here. Temperatures didn’t get out of the 50’s all day and when the wind got to blowing, it was chilly enough for a jacket.



These wine estates are massive stretching for miles to the horizon, and often have remained in the same family for generations. Not only do they have the requisite vineyards, tasting rooms and restaurants, but also include landscaped gardens, lakes and gazeboes at some places. Of course, wine tasting is included at every stop….you can easily be staggering by the end of the day. No point in visiting here if you can’t sample the wares, right?



Yes, the wines produced here are marvelous, but my favorite will always be Amarula, a cream liqueur and South Africa’s answer to Bailey’s Irish Cream. It’s made with sugar, cream and the fruit of the African Marula tree, which is also locally called the Elephant tree or the Marriage tree. It has an alcohol content of 17%. Available in the US but very hard to find, as not much of this fabulous liqueur is exported, so whenever I’m here, I stock up. Harley’s Wine and Liquor store is right across the street from the Hilton, and for just R175 ($14.28) for a liter bottle, another great steal deal. Four one-liter bottles are now residing in my luggage, ready for transport home. Good times are on the horizon, that’s for sure.



Many group winelands tours are available from Cape Town – either half or full day – with varying prices, but on average you are looking at around $70/$130. Searching the internet can get you discounts…worth a few minutes of research time. This includes roundtrip transportation (often with hotel pick-up and drop-off), wine tasting stops at 3 or 4 vineyards, sometimes lunch (or not) and a knowledgeable driver/guide to keep you entertained the entire time. He/she also comes in very handy towards the end of the day, when your feet don’t operate the way they normally do, and they have to assist/carry you back to the bus! Do the math…5 or 6 wine samples x 3 or 4 vineyards = plenty of alcohol….



It has been an amazing two weeks in my beloved city, but time to bring it to a close and head for the Eastern Cape, Zulus, safaris and so much more. Stay tuned….cheers.

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