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Durban to Jo’burg – South Africa, May 2018 My morning flight from Cape Town touched down at King Shaka Airport, following a 1,000 mile and 2-hour flight across the southern expanse of the continent. 190 years have past since Shaka Zulu’s death in September 1828, but this mightiest of Zulu monarchs is still revered in the Cape region today. According to legend, Shaka was conceived during an act of what began as ukuhlobonga, a form of sexual foreplay without penetration allowed to unmarried couples, also known as "the fun of the roads". During this practice, the lovers became "carried away", resulting in his mother Nandi’s out-of-wedlock pregnancy. Despite Shaka’s father being a king, he and his mother were still ostracized and driven from their tribe, which contributed to his tough and often brutal childhood. It wasn’t until the king lay on his deathbed, that he finally acknowledged Shaka as his son, and designated him as successor. Over the short period of his reign as king, Shaka united numerous small warring tribes into the great Zulu nation (numbering half a million people at its peak) and is credited with designing the short stabbing spear called an “assegi”, which was
used with devastating effect as he battled the British for supremacy of Zululand. He was a brilliant military strategist, and his use of the buffalo horn formation of his impis, is a tactic still used by modern military forces around the world.
Cosmopolitan Durban (known in colonial times as Port Natal), South Africa’s third-largest city (known as eThekweni in Zulu, meaning bay or lagoon) has the busiest port in Africa, but is sometimes passed over for her “cooler” Capetonian cousin. But there’s a lot more to fun-loving Durbs (as she’s affectionately known) than meets the eye. The city had a major makeover prior to the 2010 World Cup, with a sleek new stadium and a revamped waterfront. Renewal of the promenade and the sweeping away of the old sleaze has given municipal authorities new confidence and ambition, which can be seen in development projects all over the city. Home to the largest concentration of people of Indian descent outside of India, Durban also boasts an unmistakably Asian feel, with the marketplaces and streets of the ethnic neighborhood replete with the sights, sounds and scents of the subcontinent.
Located on the southeast coast in the
province of KwaZulu-Natal, Durbs is THE vacation mecca for many South Africans, offering an endless summer climate and a carnival atmosphere, blue seas, golden beaches and entertainment for every taste. It is truly one of the country's favorite holiday playgrounds. The city has so much to offer that it is almost impossible to list all its interests and pleasures. A few of the places of interest not to be missed are the beach front with its restaurants and amusement park offering fun for the younger generation. The aquarium, Ushaka Marine World, offers a very interesting view of life under the sea and is one of the best in the country. Displays of tricks and acrobatics by seals and dolphins are definitely worth a look. Consider Durban harbor and yacht club for visit and a pleasure cruise or visit to the Maritime Museum can be arranged here.
The Durban Botanical Gardens are internationally known for subtropical plants, orchids and their rare collection of cycads, the Japanese Gardens have an enchanting atmosphere and displays of flowers, ponds, and oriental designs. There are several interesting museums such as the local History Museum, Africana Museum, The Art
Museum, Natural Science Museum and Camera Museum to mention a few. The Snake Park on the beach front has a large display of reptiles from all over the world (not my personal idea of a good time – I have a snake phobia and avoid them like the plague). There are also temples and mosques which are of interest for some. The Umgeni Bird Park allows visitors on walkways to view indigenous and exotic birds at close range. It’s also the host city for the Durban July, a highlight on the social calendar in horseracing circles.
From the airport, it’s a 3-hour drive north to St. Lucia, a small town which is mainly a hub for the Greater St Lucia Wetlands Park (a World Heritage Site), located close to the Mozambique border. Evidence of early man living in caves high up in the Lebombo mountains dating back some 130,000 years, provided scientist with clues regarding the lifestyle of these prehistoric settlers. From this cave alone almost 69,000 stone implements, and various human remains have been recovered. Some of these tools date back to the middle and early stone ages. It was first named in 1554 as Rio
dos Medos do Ouro (River of the Gold Dunes) by survivors of the wrecked Portuguese ship Sao Bento. The British declared it a township in 1822.
I’m spending the afternoon here on a game-viewing cruise on the St. Lucia Estuary, one I did on a previous visit, and loved every minute of it. Couldn’t ask for better weather – cloudless blue skies, brilliant sunshine and a cool breeze blowing off the water. It’s a lazy, very peaceful sojourn as we meander against the current, with mangroves lining both sides of the boat. Within minutes we spot a pod of hippos, grunting and spraying in the shallows – instant photo op! For the next couple of hours, its more sightings of hippo families and finally a Nile crocodile lazing on the sandy bank, before we begin the return to the jetty. It’s sunset, with the blazing orb sinking fast to the horizon, tracing streaks of gold across the skies – this is Africa at her best. The darkening earth is outlined against the glowing sky in sharp relief, talk about a Kodak moment.
3am the next morning and its coffee with rusks (a super hard,
dry biscuit) to get my eyes open before leaving the hotel and heading for Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve, famous for its conservation of black and white rhinos and for being the second oldest national park in the world. Home to the “Big Five”, its possible to see many of the wild animals which roam this park, such as warthog, giraffe, elephant and of course rhinos by the boatload. Being winter time, its still pitch dark when departing the hotel, but dawn is on the horizon. The park opens at 7am which is the optimal viewing time for wildlife.
Arriving at the park, I climb aboard the safari truck and we are off into the bush. It’s a chilly morning but once the sun has been above the horizon for at least an hour, it will warm up quickly. We hadn’t driven more than five minutes when a large herd of Cape Buffalo were spotted on a nearby hill – one of the Big Five down – four more to go. Having been here on previous occasions I had no expectations of seeing all five especially not the leopard, but when I ended up photographing four out of five
within the first hour, I was stunned! It was simply one of those fabulous days when the stars align, destiny decided to give me a break and that’s the only explanation that makes any sense. The second incredible sighting was of a large male lion lying in the grass along side the track. He was so well camouflaged you would only see his massive head, but considering I was less than 10’ from that head, it was certainly more than enough for some terrific pix. It was as though he was posing for the tourists – turning his head from side to side, obviously presenting us with his best angles. His golden amber eyes gleamed in the sunlight – magnificent to say the least. This was closely followed by a sighting of rhinos, along with a troop of baboons.
Then the fun began. A massive bull elephant in “must” (aka horny), is a periodic condition characterized by highly aggressive behavior and accompanied by a large rise in reproductive hormones. This can sometimes be as high as 60 times more than normal levels. He was also constantly urinating down his back legs. This guy obviously didn’t know what
to do with himself, as he wasn’t finding any females in heat to alleviate his condition – and to make matters worse, now he has to deal with tourists eager to take his photograph. Well as you can imagine, that didn’t sit very well with Rambo here, no sir, no way - he was not about to let us pass, as he took an aggressive stance in the middle of the road. When the ranger didn’t back up the truck immediately, Rambo started moving towards us with menace on his mind. This “Mexican standoff” played out for about 10 minutes, with the truck backing up a little then stopping, and Rambo preparing to charge and flatten us all into eternity. I couldn’t have asked for a better situation – the photos are amazing! We had a second confrontation with this same elephant later in the morning, and he hadn’t changed a bit ….he was definitely owning the road on this day. Hopefully some female will be accommodating him soon and he returns to a sweeter frame of mind.
By 8:30am, it was time for a bush breakfast, cooked under the trees and eaten out in the open
air, which was warming up fast now that the sun was high above the horizon. I tucked into delicious spicy pork sausages, with scrambled eggs, yogurt, bread and fruit – a champion’s breakfast after encountering four of the Big Five in less than an hour. Food consumed, and it was back into the safari vehicle and another two hours of roaming the park. That was when the highlight of the safari occurred. Driving down a paved road, another large male lion appeared around the corner – strolling along as though out for a Sunday afternoon walk. We immediately came to a halt and everyone in the truck froze. He was approaching our vehicle on my side – can I really be this lucky? Yes, I can. For at least 10 minutes, it was nonstop photography as he got closer and closer – we were literally eyeball to eyeball via the lens. As he drew level with the side of the jeep, he gave a piercing look and it was as though he was looking deep into my soul – it was simply magical. I couldn’t breathe, it was such an emotional moment. He never broke stride, he showed no signs
of aggression, and he was less than 2’ from my camera! This is absolutely the best moment ever on safari for me, and I have a few in the past. Sightings of warthogs, more baboons, giraffes, more elephants (docile ones for a change), and antelope galore followed this event, completing my first game drive on this trip. What a fantastic morning all round.
Next it was crossing out of South Africa and into Swaziland – more stamps for the old passport, arriving just before sunset after a 3-hour drive, to the Mountain Inn Hotel in the capital city of Mbabane. A delightful hotel set on a mountain top (duh) overlooking the city. Chalets are ranged around the main building which contains restaurants, bars and even an Irish Pub by the name of O’Reilly’s, where a vodka tonic went down very well, after this exciting day. As with South Africa, alcohol is very cheap – orange juice actually costs more than Jack Daniels. And this hotel’s main attractive point? Probably the most comfortable bed I have slept in since the Hilton in Cape Town, giving me hours of much-needed sleep.
Swaziland is truly a third-world
country, ruled by a dual monarchy (King and Queen Mother), who live lavishly while the population of 1.1 million starve. Landlocked and totally surrounded by South Africa, it has its own currency but accepts the SA Rand on a 1-1 exchange. Their succession laws are interesting. Only the youngest son (14 or under) can assume the throne on the death of his father. This way, his mother is Regent and rules in his place until he comes of age. The current king has 13 wives – one committed suicide recently, which is probably indicative of how the rest feel! There is an annual celebration where the king selects a new wife from scads of nubile maidens, ensuring there is always a “youngest” son in the making. How many are actually interested in becoming a queen or are coerced by family, is highly debatable. Surprisingly, the population is fiercely patriotic when it comes to the royal family especially with the older generations, but the younger ones are starting to demand reforms.
But I have to admit, Swaziland is a beautiful country with soaring mountains, lush fertile valleys and endless fields of sugar cane, one of its major exports.
There are no government assistance programs here, so people have become extremely resourceful in creating employment for themselves. Traders line each side of the road selling their wares, from grilled corn on the cob, to barbeque chicken, fruit of every description and trinkets made by hand. Compared to other countries in the region, Swaziland is known for its civility and peacefulness, despite similar problems with poverty and one of the world's worst AIDS crises. As of November 2008, the total reported percentage of those with HIV was listed as 30%!;(MISSING) this of course, does not include those who have not yet been tested. The AIDS epidemic has broken up the traditional extended family unit, leaving many young children orphaned and fighting for survival.
A little bit of history: Artifacts indicating human activity dating back to the early Stone Age 200,000 years ago have been found here. Prehistoric rock art paintings date from 25,000 BC. The earliest inhabitants of the area were Khoisan hunter-gatherers, who were largely replaced by the Bantu tribes during Bantu migrations who hailed from the Great Lakes regions of Eastern Africa.
The autonomy of the Swaziland Nation was
dictated by British rule of southern Africa in the 19th and 20th centuries. In 1881, the British government signed a convention recognizing Swazi independence. At the start of the Anglo Boer war, Britain placed Swaziland under its direct jurisdiction as a Protectorate. Since 1973, Swaziland has seen a rather quiet struggle between pro-multiparty activists and the monarchy. It gained independence from the UK in 1968.
Time to return to “civilization” as we know it, back in South Africa. Using Jeppe’s Reef exit, I collected yet another couple of passport stamps and then spent a pleasant few hours in the Matsamo Village, which is a Swazi cultural center right on the border. My last visit here a couple of years ago was really a delight – this visit, not so much. Some of the activities I enjoyed previously were not included this time which is such a pity as what is missing, was definitely the best part. Only one krall (hut) was visited with an explanation of its use by the tribal guide and then it was straight to the dancing and singing performance. Previously, I had been able to stroll the entire village, ducking into at least
six different kralls to watch the various tradesmen at their work. It was a lackluster performance by the group, and very evident that they were only going thru the motions and couldn’t wait for it to end. Bored facial expressions certainly didn’t endear me to them at all! The buffet-style lunch served immediately after was only “so-so”, and I was more than happy to re-board the bus and head for my next hotel by midafternoon.
Yet another zero-dark-thirty wakeup call the following morning, to ensure we would arrive at Kruger National Park when they opened at 6am. Dawn was on the horizon and the pearly pink skies promised another wonderful warm sunny day – I have been so lucky with the weather so far on this entire trip. By the time the safari jeep was heading into the park, the sun peeked above the far horizon and I was able to take at least a dozen photographs of this stunning event. There is nothing quite like a sunrise in Africa and especially when driving thru the morning chill in Kruger – simply paradise on earth. This park is larger than the country of Wales in the UK,
and no matter how many times I visit here, I never see the same areas and I doubt I ever will – its simply too big. Home to the Big Five and many other animals and birds the region teems with wildlife, but it is also possible that this same wildlife may not be the mood to show themselves. It is always a toss-up as to what will be sighted and when, and of course nothing is ever guaranteed. This being said, I did get to view elephants, giraffes, Cape Buffalo, baboons, impalas, wildebeest, rhinos and hippos but alas, no lions today. By the end of the day, I had taken well over 200 photographs….its going to be very difficult to choose between them when I begin editing!
The largest game reserve in South Africa, Kruger is basically a synonym for the word "safari." Home to over 500 bird species, 100 reptiles, nearly 150 mammals, multiple archaeological sites, and a stunningly diversity of trees and flowers, Kruger is the country’s flagship national park.
I have a long day of driving ahead as I bid adieu to the Eastern Cape and make my way to
the final stop in South Africa – Johannesburg - which is the provincial capital of Gauteng, and also the wealthiest. On the way we stop at Bourke’s Luck Potholes located at the confluence of the Blyde River and the Treur River in the region of Mpumulanga, thousands of years of water erosion have created a unique and otherworldly geological feature.
Here at the mouth of the Blyde River Canyon, the two rivers formed swirling eddies of water. Over time, this formed huge cylindrical potholes in the sandstone bedrock. The effect, seen from the crags above, is now a fascinating network of tunnels and tubes and interconnected whirling pools. The different soil levels in each hole give them each a unique color and makes for a striking and colorful landscape. The formations get their name from a prospector, John Bourke, who was one of the first to proclaim that the region had gold deposits and who staked a claim nearby. Despite the name of the potholes, he never found a single ounce of gold there — though luckier prospectors would later find rich amounts of gold in the area. Even if he walked away empty-handed, his name lives
on in the stunning scenery. The Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve in which the potholes are located, has bridges and viewing platforms that allow visitors to see the interesting rock features from a variety of angles. There is also a small but interesting geological museum and short walking trails.
Another marvelous photo opportunity came a couple of hours later, as we began to drive the Panoramic Route. Situated on the Drakensberg escarpment is God’s Window - just one look down and you will begin to understand why it is called "God's Window". With magnificent views, canyons, rock formations and waterfalls, God's Window is truly an area of breathtaking scenic splendour. It is no wonder that Mpumalanga is known as Paradise Country. So called for the panoramic view of the Lowveld more than 2,800’ down into lush indigenous forest-clad ravine. It is a small part of a 170-mile long earthwork of sheer cliffs and extravagant beauty. Here you can observe the hills and forests as far as the eye can see. In fact, it seems as if I could see forever! One spectacular view is the Three Rondavels – which is a South African word that refers to
a round hut-like dwelling (usually with a thatched roof). The three well known gigantic peaks of quartzite and shale with their sheer rock walls tower more than 2,200’ above the surrounding landscape.
Finally just as the sun was setting in it’s usual blaze of glory, we arrived in Johannesburg, the economic hub of South Africa, and increasingly for the rest of Africa. Although estimates vary, about 10% of sub-Saharan Africa's GDP is generated in Johannesburg. Yet the city's wealth is unequally distributed among its inhabitants causing the city to have, within its own borders, living conditions varying from first world standards to third world conditions. The contrast between rich and poor has led to one of the highest crime rates in the world. The more affluent tend to live in houses with a high level of security by western standards, whilst the less affluent live in less desirable housing conditions.
There are many things that are unique to Johannesburg. It features a distinct street entrepreneurship, and motorists buy things from vendors selling goods at traffic lights, as in many other developing-world cities. This includes food, umbrellas, soccer balls, cellular phone accessories and many other goods.
Barber shops, consisting of nothing but a chair and an enthusiastic barber, can be found on the sides of roads, although they tend to specialize in African rather than Caucasian hair. Mine dumps can also be seen throughout the city and are a reminder of the city's legacy of gold mining.
With around 6 million trees, Johannesburg is most likely the world's largest man-made urban forest. The city is certainly one of the greenest in the world, considering that the natural landscape is savannah.
For the visitor Jo’burg has much to offer in the way of sightseeing. Consider taking a fascinating glimpse into the bustling neighborhood of Soweto, the most metropolitan township in the country, setting trends in politics, fashion, music, dance and language. Soweto’s name is an English syllabic abbreviation for South Western Townships. Walk along the street leading up to Nelson Mandela’s former home and meet the friendly locals. The Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum is dedicated to one of the first casualties of the 1976 uprising in Soweto against the apartheid system, and definitely worth a look. One of the most outstanding museums in the country (in my humble opinion) is
the Apartheid Museum where you walk thru history and experience the racial segregation suffered by millions. It is disturbing, thought-provoking and sometimes startling but one thing’s for sure, you will be a different person when you leave than when you entered this building and journeyed thru this incredible collection.
Jo’burg is not a city that attracts tourists for the most part. It is more of a stopover when enroute to Kruger or connecting on to other cities in the south but for what it is, it’s worth at least one visit when in South Africa. Being located in the mineral-rich Witwatersrand range of hills and being the center of large-scale gold and diamond trade, certainly makes it a city to be reckoned with.
The airport is calling and it’s time for me to depart for a new destination and hopefully, a new and exciting adventure. It’s a 4am departure for my flight tomorrow morning….stay tuned!
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Virginia Freichels
non-member comment
Linda - I really enjoy your blogs. Having been to South Africa, I particularly enjoyed this entry. I felt like I was back there with you. Wonderful photos.
Best wishes, stay well, and keep on traveling. Virginia