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Published: March 12th 2013
For so many years we always drove past Kosi bay, just wanting to get to Mozambique. This time we decided after spending a week in Mozambique we would spend a couple of days to see what we have missed all this time.
Sunset cruise: After leaving Mozambique on the Wednesday, we drove into Manguzi to stock up on some fresh supplies and then headed for Kosi Bay Lodge where we were booked for 3 nights in a self catering chalet. Lovely rustic log cabins with a wooden deck in amongst the coastal forest. There was a sunset cruise on the lakes leaving at four with another couple, so we decided to go on that as well. We met Gavin and Lee, the other couple at reception and walked with them through part of a beautiful forest with lovely palms, ferns and cycads down to the lake. Three lakes are joined to each other, starting at Kosi mouth with channels between each lake. In fact that whole area consists of lakes and wetland area. We had some lovely sightings of hippos and birds but being able to see and get close to the traditional and infamous fish traps of Kosi
Impressive palms
At the main lakeBay was truly fantastic. What a good start to our stay! But don’t expect any drinks on the sunset cruise – you need to bring your own – luckily we asked about that before the time or we would have been parched – even with all that water around. We decided to have dinner at the lodge’s small restaurant with the staff trying their best to look after us and enjoyed a lovely meal.
The next day we wanted to go to Kosi mouth and the estuary, but as it is a coastal reserve we needed a permit. A word of advice: don’t drive to the mouth first and expect to get a permit there. The office for the permit is at the Kosi bay camp site with no signs telling you where to go. There is also a limit of permits allowed per day:
Kosi Mouth – 16 permits and only 4 x 4 (it’s those last couple of kilometres that catch you out!)
Black Rock – 12 permits Island Rock – 5 permits Rocktail Bay – 5 permits Lala Neck – 5 permits I would not like to be
Hippos
Sunset cruise around when it is December and holidays, with so many people wanting permits as I am sure this area is packed to the gills then!
Some of the security tips in the reserve brochure: Travel to remote areas with more than one vehicle if possible. Advise friends or neighbours of your destination and expected time of return. Be aware that most of the remote areas have no cell phone reception. Do not stop at suspicious looking places e.g. a log across the road. In the case of a breakdown be careful of over anxious, unrequested helpers. Wise words but we never felt threatened once.
Kosi Mouth: After obtaining the permit we drove to Kosi Mouth. On the way we saw an elderly lady with crutches walking along the road, so we decided to stop and ask if she needed a lift. She couldn’t speak a word of English and all we could make out was ‘clinico’. We didn’t know where she was heading but after a few of minutes of driving she pointed to a make shift clinic come post office. It would have taken
Hippos
Just a couple of metres from our boat her at least half an hour up and down a soft sandy road while hobbling along but took us at most about three minutes. When she got out of the car she continued babbling in her language but the appreciation on her face was most evident and we are sure her words were of thanks.
Most of the road to the mouth was a good gravel road, but as soon as you entered the gate of the reserve the sand road started where you needed a 4 x 4. On the way down to the lake we stopped at a view point where we had a wonderful view of all the fishing traps in the estuary. What a magnificent sight once again! At the mouth we donned our snorkelling gear and set forth while the tide was going out, but about to turn. Some of the channels were a bit deeper than they looked and yours truly had to swim across while Paul happily walked across a meter or two to my left. The wind was howling on the beach, so we had a quick look and headed for a sheltered spot where we saw some other snorkelers. It
was worth the effort snorkelling in the channels as there were quite a few fish and some lovely sized mullet. Obviously the fishing traps seem to be quite sustainable. Another word of warning: use plenty of sun block or suitable attire when snorkelling. When you get engrossed in what is under water you don’t realise how you burn on the back of your legs and back.
The witchdoctor: On the Friday it was raining with good thunder and lightning. We were supposed to go to Bhanga Neck by boat across the lake with Gavin and Lee, but it was cancelled so we decided to chill for a bit until we could see what the weather was doing. If we could get accommodation for Saturday night at the lodge we would spend an extra day, so Paul went to reception to arrange it and we were in luck, because our chalet was still available for that night. Then the lady who cleaned our chalet came in while the storm was overhead and she was saying that she was scared of lightning. We started chatting and Paul said he is a lightning specialist. Not understanding him properly, she
Fish traps
In a straight line.. called him a witchdoctor and was ready to drop her broom and bucket, run away and hide! She thought he caused the lightning to strike and after careful explaining and reassurance we told her that he ‘makes people safe’ from lightning. That was a first – my husband being called a witchdoctor, but I think in her eyes his status improved slightly to a Sangoma!
Illegal migration?: What do you do when it is raining and miserable and not beach weather? Explore other areas, of course! When we were snorkelling the day before at Kosi mouth, we met a father and son who told us an interesting story about a 'hole in the fence'. Naturally we had to go and look for it as well. We asked our newly acquired friends, Gavin and Lee if they were interested in some adventure. They were game so we set off in two vehicles, taking heed of those wise words in the reserve brochure. Following a vague track that we found on one of the maps on the GPS, we turned off the tar road close to the Moz border, not sure if this was the right track. Eventually
Fish traps
The intricasies the faint tracks became slightly more prominent tracks, although still not well travelled, and then a well used sand road next to the border fence. The fence itself looked rather flimsy for a border fence and a couple of kilometres further, tucked under some beautiful trees we saw someone camping - it looked like a real bush camp with no amenities, obviously someone that wanted to go off the beaten track, away from the madding crowd and camp in a secluded area. We rode further and could notice the odd gap in the fence, and even further a whole section that was flattened. The scenery certainly was lovely in some areas, although marshy with dense shrubs, trees, palms and ferns and quite a few birds flitting from one country to another. After a few more kilometres we saw a couple of buildings and a well used open area with a walk through pedestrian gate. People were walking through the gate from SA to Moz and then being transported by taxis to their respective villages. Apparently they go to school in SA but live in Moz. On the Moz side there was an informal market, apparently selling fruit, vegetables, fish and
Fishing
At their fish traps liquor, etc. trading on a Saturday or Wednesday. Two army or police chaps were sitting under a tree with rifles and they said we could take a look on the other side. I joked with them and said "You won't shoot us if we go to the other side?" - all those films about refugees running across the border and being shot at flashed through my mind. They just laughed and said 'no, no, go ahead, take a look'. Much to our dismay the market was not operating - trust us to choose the wrong day to do our across the border shopping! It was such an unbelievable sight for us but would have been better seeing the trading taking place. Then the two police chaps told us of an easier road back to the tar road, which was certainly well used. Our second visit to Moz was even shorter than the three guys who we rescued in Moz a couple of days ago! (all about that in my previous blog)
Black Rock and Bhanga neck: Saturday was our last day, as well as being Paul's birthday. Because we had extended our stay by
Estuary
Fishing one day, we didn't have to drive back to Johannesburg on his birthday. We chose to drive to a scenic spot on the coast called Black Rock with our newly acquired friends, Gavin & Lee. Gavin wanted to go fishing there but didn't want to drive on his own and we wanted to explore so we drove together. The drawback is that it takes a while to get there – at least an hour and a half, but then that is probably why they are such unspoilt beaches. Beautiful rock formations and Paul, Lee and I tried to snorkel while Gavin tried his hand at fishing but caught nothing. We saw a few fish but it certainly wasn't worth the effort as we were being dragged a bit by the current and had the odd wave crashing over our heads. Once again a secluded beach in the middle of nowhere and at one stage we were the only people on the beach. After a couple of hours and a picnic lunch on the beach, we headed for Bhanga neck, driving this time, seeing our boat trip to there was cancelled the previous day. Another beautiful beach but Black rock to
Estuary
More fishing us was the better attraction. As Paul said, he could think of worse places to spend his birthday. On the way back from Bhanga neck we stopped at a tuck shop and bought ice cold drinks, something one would not expect to get at such a secluded spot.
We concluded those lovely few days with another meal at the resort's restaurant and said farewell to our new friends. We were so glad we decided to spend a few days in that area but Moz still holds a special place in our hearts. We can certainly see why Kosi Mouth is a Unesco world heritage site. Once again time was far too short to do all we wanted to do, but maybe there will be a next time!
There are more photos below and on the next few pages.
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