Blogs from Somalia, Africa - page 2

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Africa » Somalia » Somaliland » Hargeisa December 20th 2010

Today I'm finally leaving Somalia. Everything's packed and ready to go. I checked out and waited in the lobby for the shuttle to come. It was pouring rain when it came, and there was an armed guard waiting outside. You can't travel anywhere without one. The last time that happened, the vehicle was shot up. At Egal International Airport, the plane wasn't due for another 20 minutes, so I wandered around and read the plaque mounted on the side of the building. It commemorated the opening of the building in 1958. I'm almost nostalgic about leaving Somalia. The stifling weather was irritating and the monsoon rains created huge puddles everywhere. But some parts I will miss, like the Laas Geel cave paintings and the beach.... read more

Africa » Somalia » Somaliland » Hargeisa December 19th 2010

I woke up with a headache and feeling cranky. My trip to the beach was canceled because of the monsoon rain. I went down to the dining area and ate a breakfast of millet porridge and milk. They were also serving a special, xalwo, which is a jelly-like candy made from water, sugar and honey. I ate half of the bread and left the other half untouched on the plate. In Somalia, it's polite to leave a little bit of food to show you were given enough to eat, and treated kindly. Afterward there was nothing interesting to do, so I spent the rest of the day lounging and looking for anything else interesting about the country. I found out that there's no truly functioning national government in Somalia and the local long form (name) for ... read more
Xalwo

Africa » Somalia » Somaliland » Hargeisa December 19th 2010

The beach trip was rescheduled for today. When the bus pulled up, everyone going to the beach was clambering to get in. It was the only source of air conditioning outside, where it had to be at least 90 degrees. On the ride to the beach, the guide told us that Somalis followed their religion strictly, so no bathing suits allowed. She told us to swim in our clothes. When we got to the beach, it was all white sand and blue water. I saw some little boys playing soccer on the beach. There were also some fishing boats out in the water, since fish is another main export besides livestock. I put up an umbrella and sat down to read. A minute later everyone was screaming, "Come here and look at that fish!" Sure enough, ... read more
Berbera beach gulls

Africa » Somalia » Somaliland » Hargeisa December 19th 2010

After the beach trip I was very tired. I'm leaving Somalia tomorrow, and I'm almost relieved. It's been extremely hot and humid, and the monsoon rains are deafening. But some parts I will miss, like the Laas Geel cave paintings and the beach. Right now, everything is already packed. To cap off the trip, I went snorkeling off the Berbera coast with my underwater camera. I saw a dolphin swimming by and the coral reefs were vibrant with color. A huge turtle passed me and I had to take a picture. After half an hour of exploring the water, the boat guide said it was time to go back. It was getting dark and the boaters didn't want to take chances with a run in with pirates. I climbed back on and the boat zoomed back ... read more
Penant fish

Africa » Somalia » Somaliland » Hargeisa December 17th 2010

Today I went to visit the Laas Geel caves, which has cave paintings dating back to 9000 BC. The ride on the dirt road was really bumpy and my personal belongings were jumping out of my bag. The car had to slow down a few times because some goats and their herders wandered into the middle of the path. While I was at the caves, I saw a painting of a man taming a cow and an antelope. After an hour of sightseeing, I went back to my hotel and let jet lag catch up with me. After I woke up, I checked the brochure for any more places to visit. Bakara Market sounded interesting. When I saw where it was (Mogadishu, 19 hours away), and what they sold (things like weapons and stolen passports), I ... read more
Camel painting

Africa » Somalia » Somaliland » Hargeisa December 16th 2010

Our plane just landed at Hargeisa Egal International Airport in Hargeisa, which is in northern Somalia. The country is just east of Ethiopia on the horn of Africa. the climate here is extremely hot and arid. The bus passed a lot of goats, one of their principal exports. When the bus arrived at the hotel, I asked for something to drink and got some Shah Hawaash, which is a traditional Somali drink. Water here isn't as great as the water in the US because it's contaminated. The guy at the front desk suggested to the tourists not to drink any water unless it's bottled. Tomorrow, I'm going to see the Laas Geel cave. The travel brochure said that it had a lot of cave paintings dating back to the BC's. Somalia has tons of sights to ... read more
Egal International Airport

Africa » Somalia » Somaliland » Hargeisa June 3rd 2010

9 weeks in Ethiopia = need for a vacation So, my boyfriend and I decided to head overland to Somaliland. First stop - Hargesia. I remember most of this trip in terms of comparisons to Ethiopia where we had been for the 7 weeks prior. So take this perspective within that context. Here are the logistics - First off you will need dollars for this trip. There are no ATMs in Somaliland. Therefore, if you need money while there it will be a transfer. If you must take care of this while in Ethiopia, we came to realize that the only place you change birr to dollars are the Dashen Banks. And if you are getting money out of the ATM - keep your receipt. This is a difficult process, and Ethiopia takes it seriously. We ... read more
Checkpoint
Wajalee/Somaliland Side
Shared Taxi

Africa » Somalia January 26th 2010

Yes that's right. Somalia. The most dangerous country on the planet. Well, sort of. The international image of Somalia is one giant boomerang shaped basket case populated by a cast of ruthless buccaneers - Treasure Island or Pirates of the Caribbean it certainly ain’t. My advance research on the FCO webpage makes for grim reading. However, the country is actually three states in one. Somalia main in the south: the Somalia of your nightmares. Above it the equally anarchic separatist state of Puntland, which occupies the tip of Africa's Horn. Finally, to the west of this, another breakaway fledgling nation, Somaliland (formerly British Somaliland before Somalia's independence). Of the three, only Somaliland is accessible to travellers retaining their sanity. It is still a little dangerous; in 2003 Somali insurgents crossed the border and shot a number ... read more
Our trusty transport
Somaliland shillings (and their equivalent value)
War memorial - a MIG jet

Africa » Somalia » Somaliland May 1st 2009

Shortly after leaving Oman we started across the infamous Gulf of Aden, home to the world’s most active pirate fleet. Regent went to great lengths to assure a safe passage for her flagship, the Voyager, and her boat load of passengers and crew. First off the ship was equipped with an LRAD---long range acoustic device---which when activated directs an ear shattering cone of noise at a target. This device was used by the Seabourn Spirit in 2005 to deter a Somali pirate attack. The LRAD was attached to the aft railing of the ship behind the Horizon Lounge—right where we have our parties. Next, four young Israeli security guards were brought on board for the transit. The ship’s regular security forces are Gurkhas. These Nepalese men are renowned for their fierce fighting ability and have been ... read more
LRAD Noise Device
The Security Squad
Cocktails @ Sunset

Africa » Somalia » Somaliland April 1st 2009

Somalia-Pirates!! (THE PICTURE TO THE RIGHT IS NOT ONE THAT I TOOK, I COPIED IT FROM THE INTERNET SO YOU COULD SEE WHAT THE PIRATES LOOK LIKE) Yes, if you look at the Spot Tracker, you will see that we are very, very close to the coast of Somalia where today's modern pirates live and ply their trade of hi-jacking ships and holding them and their crews and cargos hostage for ransom. Are we scared?? No-no-no! We have the Coalition countries? naval ships and their helicopters watching out for and over us. They were here with us this morning when we woke up and they are still here this evening. They will be with us until we enter the Suez Canal in a couple of days. So, yes there are pirates nearby, but they aren't any ... read more




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