Where are the dolphins

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A day’s sailing brings us into Walvis Bay, Namibia, a harbour and town surrounded by desert. It is remarkably grey and dreary when we moor, cool enough to require jumpers, especially as we are booked on a pleasure boat to view the dolphins and seals.





The boat is a game fishing vessel that is now being put to more eco friendly pursuits with a knowledgeable guide / captain and one other crew member. As we depart the harbour his whistles and two adult pelicans swoop down landing in the water immediately behind the boat. The captain throws fish for them and it is immediately apparent that while they are wild, this is something that they are well used to. One of the pelicans joins us on the boat and is perfectly happy for us to stand by it and touch it.



Shortly after we are joined by a young Cape Fur Seal, addressed as Junior. It to gets on board and is also clearly content with human company. The issue is more one of persuading him to get off the boat as we move along. (More on this later.)



The harbour is protected by an extensive sand bar that runs for a number of miles along the coast. As we approach the spit we begin to see more seals in profusion, first in the hundreds, then thousands and finally in what must have been the tens of thousands. We are told the colony is 70 - 80,000 strong. There are numerous nurseries on the beach with huge numbers of animals swimming along side us, playing in the shallows and on the surf line.



We are joined by a big Cape Sea Gull, it sits on one of the outboard motors and just looks at us. Apparently they can weigh up to 4kg. It looks at us and calmly stands on the motor as we cruise along, saving itself the effort of flying.



The captain tells us that the seals have no maritime predators in Namibia as Great White Sharks do not visit the area. However they do have four land Desert Lion (in northern Namibia), hyenas, jackels and our friend the Cape Sea Gull. I look again at the gull has a vicious beak, it seems they peak out the eyes of young seals, kill them and then tear them apart. Looking along the sand spit again we start to see numerous small cadavers above the water line, several with gulls pulling off strips of meat. With binoculars or camera zoom there is no mistaking what is happening. A little way along the beach we also see a black backed jackal prowling about. No doubt fully grown seals are safe enough, but as ever injured, sick or young animals are at risk.



Now we have been on the cruise for three months and have only seen dolphins once. So imagine our disappointment when we learn that while the dolphins have been around earlier today, they have moved further out to sea and we will not be seeing them today. Damn.



The boat slows down and we are provided with very acceptable light snacks. The captain imparts more information about the wild life and the area. I just can’t help thinking that I would be more relaxed if someone was steering the boat rather than it just chugging gently along with one of the two crew just looking ahead now and then!



Returning to the pier a very large seal indeed jumps up on the back boat. It seems this one used to be one they fed fish but as animals do, it has grown into a full sized adult. (Female, but still really quite large.) Apparently she is known to “nibble and nip” people. Looking at the teeth that does not look like a good thing. Fortunately we are really close to the landing stage. land. Perhaps encouraging wild animals to expect food is not necessarily a wholly good thing.



Pulling away from Walvis Bay we now face eight days before we land at our last port of call, Tenerife.

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