Ilha de Mozambique

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We felt so lucky to roam the streets of this ancient stone island at this moment in history. This 1-by-3 kilometer sliver, once the capital of Mozambique, has the perfect balance of decaying buildings, a few restored gems, and a vibrant local fishing community using this stunning 400-year-old colonial streetscape for their everyday lives. We wandered for days, listening to the songs emanating from madrasses, peering at the hoards of children climbing over the building remnants, watching the coming and going from mosques and churches, and perusing the oceanfront markets.

The northern half of the island is called Stonetown, with thick-walled stone buildings dating back to the 1500’s arranged along narrow winding roads. The southern part of the island, known as Makuti town, served as the quarry for Stonetown. There are huge rectangular pits with an elevated grid of causeways. These pits are packed to the gills with thatched huts and throngs of playing children.

Things seem to be changing fast. Italian entrepreneurs are restoring a number of structures as guest houses and restaurants, and there are increasing calls to relocate some of the local population to the mainland to “reduce conflicts” with the increasing tourist trade. So come quick…before it’s all done up. (jjk) More Ilha Photos

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