Surfers and Burkers

Africa » Morocco
December 1st 2012

Published: December 1st 2012

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Pattygoes

seafood vendor

I'll be right there!

Hummmm I guess from the drop down menu on this blog of places in Morocco I'm just about off the map!

Essaouira, Agadir, Tiznit, Tan Tan.... All beautiful, vibrant, less and less populated (except for Agadir)

Essaouira and our first glimpse of the Atlantic ocean in quite a while. Desert cliffs give way to a wild and sprawling coast home to a neat and ancient town with a thriving competitive fishing industry.

Tiny seafood stalls clustered along the sea wall display a veritable glistening cornucopia of delights. Hawkers shout above each other waving live crabs and lobsters inches from your face vieing to lure you to their wares. Crowded picnic tables abuzz with a thousand flies, street musicians and chefs swirl around in the smoke of many many charcoal fires as fresh seafood is grilled on the spot, served with chopped tomato/red onion salad, chunks of lime and baskets of crusty French bread. Shoo the flies, climb onto a bench, have a seat with me... It is absolutely delicious! No wine though... Oh well... A glass or two of muscadet would be perfect!

The beach is where it all takes place. There are surfers and Burkers, camels,

shy shepardess

horses and 4x4's for wild rides, lovers, merchants and soccer with friends. Newly weds and baby carriages, grandmothers and beach bums. Here east meets west and the experiment is working. Even the vendors in the sjouke are more chilled out, not bothering to shove their wares in your face, not beginning the barter with crazy prices, actually letting you browse. It's a beach community and I guess the world over they have that vibe.

Agadir.... No thank you. A popular English enclave... Goodness only knows why. Ramshackle, built up but not maintained....litter... Passing through.... Moving on!

Bush camp in grove of argon trees, goats, a shepherdess.... A rare sight, she smiles shyly is lovely, slim, trim, weathered with sparkling eyes

Desert wind.....

Tiznit.... I'm starting to feel the desert encroach.... Tan Tan....we're there. Lunch then bush camp....again....cactus, stony way off the beaten path.

Morning traffic.... Men on donkeys trot past smiling greeting in the early morning light

Pushing on..... Tart and sweet mandarins all the way! Dry roast chicken, tough bread, warm coca cola but stable stomach... It works.

Sorry no pics yet to download....but trust me when I say bush camping is