7 Days in Morocco

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Morocco
Wow. What a week!!

There were so many events/drama/other factors that lead up to this trip, all of which caused the adventure to start way before we even left Paris! Where should I start…?

As some of you know, the French Universities were on strike for six weeks starting on the latter part of November 2007. This meant that the students from the first semester were still trying to finish their semester into the first week of February!! How did this affect me?? Before leaving for France, they gave me the school calendar for the second semester with a vacation scheduled for the week of February 15-22. Knowing that I wanted to travel somewhere that week, I knew that I will be going to Morocco. BUT BECAUSE OF THE STRIKE, they canceled that week of vacation for my department because they went on strike two weeks longer than the rest of the university. I've already invested so much energy and money preparing for this week that I had to choose and stick with my plans even if it meant that I would be missing a whole week of class…even if it was the FIRST week of class.

Just as I thought the French are done with striking, they decided to throw another one out there… just for kicks. This time, they went on strike at the air traffic control in Paris Orly, which was the airport my plane WAS scheduled to depart from (I will get to why "WAS" was capitalized...haha). So at that point, I didn't even know whether or not I would make it to Morocco not knowing whether my flight will be victimized by cancellation.

THEN…the morning of our departure, one of the girls that were going to Morocco with us dropped out very last minute. I just had this look of confusion the moment she told me she can't go because her parents told her so. I believe my response was "oh that's too bad" when I really had in mind was "are u fuckin kiddin me right now?"

And it doesn't stop there. The moment we got to Paris Orly airport to check in at 4:45 in the morning, they notified us that they decided to mix it up and make it more interesting for all passengers by CHANGING AIRPORTS. haha. Oh, gracious. I knew something was up the moment we were approaching the agent. He had this look "I bet you're not gonna see this coming, suckahs!!" Well no shit, I didn't see that coming. Hell, I don't even think Nostradamus would've seen that coming either. I have never heard of an airline changing airports…ever (with or without prior notifications). I guess I shouldn't be too surprised considering the airline that we flew is called "Jet4you.com". And yes, you read that right. It couldn't get any more ghetto than that. Just when I thought Southwest Airlines was ghetto… they got nothin' on Jet4you.COM "airlines." Considering the name of the airline, I had this pre-image of the plane the moment I enter with full-on hydraulics, metal detectors on the aisle, and instead of having life-vest…they give you bullet-proof vest. And I couldn't help but envision the flight attendants in their Baby Phat inspired uniform with their named badges inscribed in gold chain necklaces. Pretty much the same vision I have of Southwest Airlines. Haha. Anyways…

After they broke the news of changing airports, they transferred us from Paris Orly to Charles De Gaulle…which is in the opposite side of Paris (about 40 min bus ride). At that point, Sarah and I were just trying to smile it out. I wouldn't even be surprised anymore if they decided to make it more authentic by using a magic carpet instead of an airplane… with a genie and all.

So, all that babble was just the pre-departure saga. Here's the meat of the real story..

Day 1- Marrakech

Well, our flight to Marrakech was over an hour delayed. At this point, I was semi-worried that Heather might've just turned around and left Marrakech (We were meeting in Marrakech since she's coming from Venice, and I told her the details of the strike and how there's a possibility that we may not make the flight). Well, needless to say, I was happy and relieved when I saw her waiting just outside of customs. I felt the sigh of relief knowing that at last, something was going right! After exchanging hugs, I rushed straight to the baggage claim ONLY TO FIND THAT MY BACKPACK WAS NOT ON THE CONVEYOR BELT (Phuket, Thailand)!!! I asked one of the attendants whether there are any more luggage's coming in, and he informed me that it was all the luggage that came in. Am I cursed?? I mean, that was not funny anymore. Sure, the first three times straight that my luggage was lost by an airline was kinda sorta funny, but this was borderline disturbing and eerie. BUT BUT BUT (!!!) he told me that there was a backpack that fell off the conveyor belt!! Haha. And lo and behold…there it was hiding from me. But in a more serious note, that was really really (emphasis on the "really") not necessary.

Fortunately, the taxi that our hotel had sent to pick us up had waited the entire time until we arrived! The ride from the airport to the hotel offered us the first very glimpse of Marrakech. The realization of being in a non Western world was starting to sink in when I saw the locals in their traditional Muslim garbs riding their motored bike and/or their donkeys. What a change from the smart/fiat/Peugeot cars that I've grown accustomed to seeing on the roads in Europe. Finally, we were dropped off to the area of the hotel (located inside the Medina) where we had to do additional walking since the cab could not enter the Medina. As soon as we were dropped off, there was a guy (with his wheelbarrow for our luggage) that lead us to our hotel since the Medina in Marrakech was rather intimidating if you have never been there before. The path to the hotel reminded me of a maze, but with narrow and dark alleys. Quote of that day belonged to Sarah when she said "I thought I was being lead to my death"…. because that was exactly what I was thinking too considering how sketchy the area looked! Fortunately, I immediately saw some tourists (aka White people) wandering around the same area, so that gave me some reassurance that it will be ok.

After checking in and admiring the hotel (the view from the terrace, the Moroccan furnishings of the room, etc.) we went on and explored the Medina and the infamous square Djamaa El Fna. The moment we stepped into the Medina was the moment we dove head on to complete culture shock. The normal sights, sounds, and smell of what we have grown accustomed to in western culture were all polar opposite/non-existent in Marrakech.
That time around, we were dealing with sounds from people vying to get your attention from their markets, motorcycles passing through tiny alleys full of pedestrians, prayers that resonated the entire city, smells of spices, and smells of animals that was pretty overpowering at times. What a difference from my little suburb in Chicago (though not that different either from my native Philippines. But I haven't lived there either since a lifetime ago, but you could argue I had some experience in an anarchy-esque enviroment).

After having our pictures taken with a cobra and snakes, lunch, bartering while doing some souvenir shopping and getting haggled, we decided to retreat to the hotel and rest for a while before we headed out to dinner at the festive Djamaa El Fna.. Considering everything that's happened that day, I felt like I've already been there for a week even though I have only been in the country for only around ten hours.


Day 2- Unexpected rock climbing in Ourika Valley

The bed I slept on was magic…

Anyway, our day started with a breakfast served by our hotel (with the best tea I've had to date!). During breakfast, we met two German kids who were studying in Spain and were in Morocco for the weekend. They mentioned that they were going to a waterfall near the Atlas mountains, and right away I thought it may be a good idea to tag along for a bit considering we didn't really had a solid plan for the day.

Our trip to the Atlas was rather interesting. We started looking for a taxi that could take us from the Old City to the Atlas, and as usual, there were bartering involved. The ride took approximately an hour and a half from the Old City to the Atlas, and it was quite an interesting ride considering that our taxi driver (and the taxi itself) was quite a character. I don't think I've ever been in a taxi where the driver asks us to take a picture of himself from our camera and having to passed around a screwdriver to just to open a window.

In all, Ourika Valley was a paradise escape from the craziness of Marrakech. The panoramic views that we saw while rock climbing was nothing short of spectacular. My favorite part of that day was eating lunch (of course) in a restaurant set right next to a flowing stream where you can view the mountain range, while eating traditional Moroccan food under a clear blue sunny day. I couldn't believe there weren't many more tourists around because it was definitely something not to be missed while in Morocco!


Day 3 and 4- The Sahara Desert

A driver that we hired for the trip picked us up in Marrakech. The drive to Zagora (part of the Sahara) took approximately 7 hours, and every minute of the drive was AMAZING. I've never seen so much contrast from a country as much as I did in Morocco after that 7 hour-drive. The panoramic scenery that we passed were snow capped-mountains, the desert, forest, ancient villages, etc.

Once we got to the desert, our driver introduced us to this guy (the boss I assume) who was in charge of the desert excursions. Not gonna lie, it was intimidating exchanging conversations with a guy dressed in his full traditional garb in an actual Muslim country. At one point, he asked us where we came from…and I blurted, unnaturally, Canada. That moment in time made me genuinely feel that I am out of my comfort zone. Maybe I was just being neurotic, but I didn't know if he would have his own personal beef with Americans. I mean, he was handing us off to one of his Berbers (natives of the desert) into the middle of the desert!! But I could've also said I came from the Philippines, but due to my lack of knowledge of the social relationship of the Philippines and other Muslim countries, I stuck with the safer route and stuck with Canada. I mean, who has beef with Canada?

The ride into the desert was interesting to say the least. I was pretty much on my defense mode paying attention to where we left off and other landmarks JUST IN CASE something happened. The thoughts and scenarios that were circulating in my head were rather entertaining now that I think about it (but it definitely wasn't funny at that time considering it felt more realistic!). This was basically the gist of my thinking, "if this Berber tried to fuck with us, the main road is right there and u follow that all the way through while you run for your damn life." Hahaha.

But our Berber turned out to be an amazing guy. Perhaps the fact that he could not speak English or French made it more intimidating because we could not communicate with him. We were basically just following him in silence just hoping he leads us to where we are supposed to be. Aside from my neurotic thoughts, I thought the trek into the desert was incredible. Though there were a bunch of kids that you could see a mile away running towards you and asking you for money for a good 5 minutes. After a few of them, it just got downright annoying and creepy.

Once we arrived at the camping site, they led us to our tent to settle before getting ready for dinner. After we settled for a bit, I was happy and relieved to see other tourists (aka white people) around. We introduced ourselves and once again played the role of being Canadians. After they served us dinner, we gathered around for a while and played music with their traditional instruments just before we went to bed. It was definitely a night to remember.


Day 5- Tangier

It was a bad idea to begin with and it was still a bad idea in the end. What an interesting way to start the day when we arrived at the station only to find out there were no lockers available, which meant that we had to drag our ginormous backpacks with us while we tour the city since we did not have a hotel reservation (we were only supposed to be there for a day). Then add our "warning" from this local woman, who overheard us being given directions, to avoid going a certain way due to the type of people that are on that street while we searched for this damn Medina. These were all already happening, and we probably haven't even been in the city for more than an hour.

Here's what was basically accomplished:
1) Dragging around monstrous backpacks in a city where they don't just eye one you, but your belongings too (and NO, it is not cultural tradition!!).

Normally when I start with a 1, the number 2 and 3 would follow. ..but unfortunately I can't offer any more than that (besides my rant to follow). Never have I felt in all my travels felt to be so unsafe as I did here. We were walking preys from the locals. It's one thing if they look at you, but if they are staring not only at you, but at your belongings as well with a grin in their face, you couldn't help but think that you are in a dangerous place. Not only that, there weren't really ANYTHING to do. I followed along for the "infamous" Mosque that we weren't EVEN ALLOWED TO ENTER and another "infamous" Kasbah that wasn't even open. Just recalling the events that happened during this day still kinda strikes a nerve so I'm gonna move on. There were so many signs that indicated to go to Essaouira (another city in Morocco, listed as the number 2 city to visit after Marrakech and several recommendations from locals) which were all consciously ignored. You would think after reading less than stellar reviews about the city (not to mention how dangerous it is), and being being referred to go to Essaouira by locals (only 3 hour bus ride vs. 10 hour train ride), that those factors alone should lead you to change your thinking process. But that was not the case. Lesson learned here (or rather reiterated) is follow your instincts and go where you want to go, even if it means flying solo (which can be exponentially better, depending on your group!!)

Day 6- Casablanca

Amazing grand Mosque. The architecture was breathtaking...I could've actually just sat there the whole entire day admiring the geometric and intricate details, distinct to Muslim architecture. But other than that and the Medina, there was not much else to do also. Two days/ one night is sufficient here!


This trip definitely had its ups and downs, but it was a trip to experience regardless of everything else that happened.

And I am glad to be back to modern civilization

Hope ur still awake after reading this. Cuz I know I wouldn't be…

Haha.

Miss you all. And Filipino food.

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