Off into the desert to find an oasis

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Day 10. 29^thJan (Wednesday)

Today we went for breakfast at 8am along with the other guests for a change. It was just getting light and quite cold outside.

We walked to the Grand Taxi rank and negotiated a deal with a driver (Mohammed) to take us to Fint Oasis in his ancient, battered Mercedes, which is the nearest oasis to Ouarzazate, for 300Dh. As we left town there was a huge area that had roads and street lights but no houses! Unusual to build all the infrastructure before the houses, but similar to Spain according to Michael.

Mohammed took us the scenic route through the desert which was mainly land totally covered with millions of small stones apart from the huge boulder-like mountains. We stopped a few times for snapshots and he drove us to a viewpoint and we walked a while across slightly crumbling old volcanic lava to get an ariel view of Fint, which really looked like a green jewel in the otherwise brown surroundings. We then drove down to the river where we met a local guy, Ali, who took us for a tour, so we left the Mohammed there.

Ali’s tour involved crossing the river a few times on wobbly stones (at one point with him holding my hand and wading beside me as we crossed, withme precariously balancing on the small rocks). Some campers were there beside the river and one was collecting water from an irrigation canal although he said it was for washing purposes. We went to a patch of mint growing nearby and Ali picked a few sprigs and gave them to Michael to carry. As the walk got longer and started going uphill I got out of breath and stopped for a rest. Ali realised I couldn’t go much further so he asked a lady working in the fields to make us tea, which she did, using the sprigs from Michael and passing over the wall; a rug, then some fencing rolled up, then a sack of beans which Ali placed on the rolled-up fencing and I sat on all that. Michael & Ali got plastic stools. A small table was then passed over the wall and a bowl of dates – strange looking light brown ones, quite sweet but also quite dry. The pot of tea was made, with sugar added, which we all drank, poured from a great height in true Berber fashion. We also had some pancakes with honey and a large flat-bread like a massive naan, a piece of which Ali dipped into the honey & spread on our pancakes. When Ali asked to take our picture he said "Say cheese" and we both said "Fromage" in unison! (see pic) We gave Ali 150Dhs and he went into the house and presumably gave some to the lady. I know that the locals here quite resent tourists as they just appear, take some photo’s and then clear off, so it was good to give something to them for their trouble. All through this Michael & Ali had been jabbering away in French of which I understood only a little (petite) amount.

After we finished the tea etc, I indicated that we should get back to the taxi as we had been away for about 90mins. So we crossed the 2 rivers again, this time on bigger stones and into the village proper where the local Primary School was going for a walk. Michael & me waited near the school and Ali went off to find our taxi which arrived with him in, a few minutes later. We dropped Ali where we’d found him and took a quicker road back to town, passing 3 camels in their natural habitat. I gave Mohammed 300Dh & Michael 40Dh and he seemed happy with that. So were we, it had been a good day out.

I went for a siesta and Michael went off shopping. I was tired as I had woken a few times last night from a nightmare where I was asleep in a caravan and awoke to find there had been an earthquake and I was balanced on the edge of a huge ravine, quite scary. I woke up (for real) and had a drink of water, but when I fell asleep again, the nightmare resumed! So then I just listened to some Radio 4 plays for a while…. All very strange. Anyway, I needed that siesta.

When I awoke I rang Michael on my ‘new’ phone and he said he was buying a carpet near the main square. We arranged to meet at the cafe we had used last night. On the way I met a Dutch couple on bicycles, with a trailer for their quite dog, they said they were hoping for warmth after crossing the Atlas, I told them it was cold here at night and early morning anddirected them to the Kasbah. I waited there for ages watching a guy dismantling the lighting rig from last night, by shinning up an upright and across the main bar about 20’ high, then lowering lamps down by rope (not allowed in Britain). There was a large balloon seller in front of me (large balloons, not large seller) and I watched 2 kids playing with one kicking it between them. After one very high kick, a motorbike/truck thing drove quite fast past them and the balloon landed in the open back and was driven away at speed! The girl started crying so I got up and after checking with her Mum, I bought another one for her, only 3Dh, that cheered her up.

Eventually Mike found me, he was carrying a bag containing a rug and a jacket he had bought, or rather that he had not bought, as, when they had agreed a price, Michael realised he did not have enough money so needed an ATM. So the guy told him ‘no problem, come back with the money later’ and Mike left with the goods!!! How very trusting. I looked after the goods whilst Mike sorted out the cash.

When he returned we went to eat. I had a vedge cuss-cuss (again) and Mike had a tagine (again) a mixed meat one this time, but he said the meat was tough – polished it all off though. I left half of my cuss-cuss, but ate most of the vedge & chick-peas. We had eaten a free bowl of lentil stew with bread as a starter. Mike had yoghurt as his drink, before his meal (very strange habit), I had a glass of orange juice as usual. As we walked back we noticed that the Liverpool v West Ham game was on a TV at the corner tea room near our hotel, so Mike went to watch the 2^nd half and I stayed home, like a good boy, and wrote this.

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Comments

[Amy Friedman]

Gouda picture!
This is one for the piano, framed! This is a great picture. Our heroes, on route to their oasis!

[DickDiamond]

just me and my fromage friend