Day 16: Essaouira - you're great once your

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(I should preface this post by noting here that Moroccan people are fantastic – they are super nice and friendly. The problem here is the attack on the tourist – it’s that small segment of the population that really ruins the view and atmosphere.)

So, I’m a little conflicted right now on my thoughts regarding Morocco. On one hand, I absolutely adore it... and on the other... yeahhhhhhh. Yeah.

We had a lovely morning – I really do love our hostel in Marrakech – the staff are so friendly and helpful and it’s just a cozy and homey feeling. I’m glad we’re going back there each time we go back to Marrakech – it will be like coming home after our side trips 😊

We left our big bags and headed off in search for the bus station... we had our map, so you’d think it would be easy... but then you’d be wrong lol. People speak French here, but all the signs are either nonexistent or only in Arabic.

We knew the general direction (and we knew we had tons of time to spare) so we headed off on an adventure. Of course, obviously we stand out as non-locals... so we got a lot of whistle and honks. Nothing inappropriate or bad or anything – just the Moroccan version of “hey how you doiiiiin’ haha.

We had a few taxis try to pick us up – we’re like Non. Non merci. G’BYE! Hahaha. We’re having fun with this at least. We also discovered that the sidewalk in the middle of the street is way better than the side-ones for trying to cross all the traffic. We’re becoming quite good at our weaving between cars.

We finally made it to the train station (and the Americanized part of Marrekech – Pizza Hut, KFC and McD’s lol. Oh dear.) and asked some hotel people how to get to CTM Bus Station because of course there are different bus stations. We found it relatively easy though and then just bummed around waiting for the bus to leave.

Bus was comfy and sort of air-conditioned... there was cold-air, but it was still like 30 on the bus haha. (Outside it was 41, so I mean, still good.)

We stopped in the middle of nowhere at this small cafe for a pit-stop. Toilet adventure was fun – you pay here, but it’s for the toilet paper... which ends up being like 3 sheets haha. (Note to self for long bus ride to Merzouga – invent in own roll of tp.) We’re also noticing the crazy amount of stray cats everywhere. It’s making me think of Bulgaria, and it’s making me miss my Hobo.

Arriving in Essaouria was batshit crazy – sorry, really no other way to describe it. We were not impressed. When the bus arrives it honks to alert all the taxi and hotel/riad people – so literally as soon as the door opens there is a colossal crowd of people blocking your exit trying to sell you/gather you/do whatever to you. I had to bulldoze myself out. You’re then basically stuck there because there’s no map. You can’t ask anyone anything because they’re all trying to sell you things.

We escaped into the actual bus station and asked to make sure we were at least walking off in the right direction towards the Medina. As we headed back out, we were once again surrounded by a bunch of sellers. We were done being civil (nicities ended a long time ago) and one of the guys yelled back at us “MECHANTES!” I’m like YEP! THAT’S MEEEEEEEE. Ass.

We found some backpackers and followed them hoping they knew their way. We managed to find the Medina and we found this old lady and her son as they got out of a taxi (haha) so we asked for their help.

Anyway, back to our voyage. We finally managed to find our hostel. (Remember, no street signs.) We found a map just outside the Medina and kind of drew a zig-zag pattern out. Once we found the hostel the guy’s like yeahhhh we’re fully booked soooo you’re going somewhere else.

Yeah, not what you want to hear.

I should give him credit – he gave me our deposit back (plus an extra dollar) and wasn’t a jerk about any of it. He didn’t seem to have a real explanation as to how or why we couldn’t stay though. He then told us someone was to come to help us carry our bags and bring us to the other hostel. Em and I looked at each other like No. Just no. With no regard for politeness I’m like we’re not paying him to walk us there... but he promised that the guy worked for the hostel so we begrudgingly followed.

(To be fair, we had looked at the map – so we would have known had he started walking us the wrong way. Don’t worry Mommies. We be smart!)

We made it to the hostel no problem – we made them show us around before we agreed to staying and it actually is a nice place and the beds are comfy and clean. I’m happy with where we ended up, I just did not enjoy the voyage at all. I was definitely happy to not be doing this trip alone – I would have totally lost it had I been alone haha.

So. All that put aside, we had a marvelous end to the day!!

We spent the evening wandering around the Medina and then up to the Beach where we walked most of the way down. We plopped ourselves up on the wall separating the beach from the road area and just sat up there taking in the sights. Very relaxed.

While sitting there we had about 20 people come up to us trying to sell us a variation of little cakes and pastries. About 15 people in we realized “space cakes” were “spice cakes” and a giggle fit ensued. I think my favourite guy though was the one where Emily said no because “diabetes” and he’s like “that’s not English!” AHAHAHAHAHA. Oh my God, it was beautiful. He then asked if we were Polish. No. He listed off about 15 European countries before giving up and asking where we were from. Canada. “Oh, you people come a lot in winter. You get a lot of snow and families come here to get away. Not so much in summer.” Uh, correct.

We also had fun dealing with the “male attention” so to speak. I mean we knew that would happen before we came over, so it’s not like it’s a surprise or anything – the whistle and catcalls. It’s all harmless so we just ignore and keep walking and laugh about it afterwards. I think my favourite was the teenage boy who’s like: “I want to be married tonight.” He then kind of skipped after us and added “I want to marry you two times.” LOLOLOL.

We had a fantastic supper!! We went to some restaurant that looked relatively busy with both tourists and locals. Em got the fish tangine and I got lamb couscous. I’m kind of bummed that the lamb is a little tough here... not like it is back home, but the dish was still amazing. Em’s was really good too. Prices are great here, so that doesn’t hurt either.

For dessert we wandered back towards our hostel and came across a little bakery. Em tried some really amazing coconut thing – we got about 5 “blocks” down the main road when we decided we just had to turn back and get some more – we both loaded up haha. I think we’re going to become regulars there 😉

And a final note – they have the world’s cutest stray dogs here – so fluffy. I desperately want to pet one even though I know I can’t. And their stray kittens are little balls of fluff too. Ugh.

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