Travels with a Dakar

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Tuesday 11th November

I leave Djenne in the early morning and recross the river Bani on the ferry. I travel through rice fields across the causeway to join the main road to Gao to arrive in Mopti late morning. Mopti is also surrounded by rice fields. In between, yes, you've guessed it. Millet and cattle! The good surface continues but, as it's only 120 miles, I don't have time to get bored. There is also a lot of activity on and at the side of the road. Herds of cattle are being driven to water. There is an endless stream of four wheeled horse drawn carts filled with people. I don't know whether people here are normally reserved. Very few take the initiative but when I do a broad smile and enthusiastic wave is my reward.

Mopti is dirty, dusty, loud and brash. After driving around the markets and the town I decide it's not for me. I retrace my steps to Sevare and find the Maison des Arts. Despite the fact that there is a French tour group installing itself I fall in love with it. Kay, an ex-pat Englishwoman, and her Dogon husband Amadou run it. It is simple and spotless. It has to be the cleanest place I have stayed in since getting off the ferry in Bilbao. Kay and I talk and have lunch together and talk and talk. She gets few opportunities to speak English here. Eventually she has to interview a potential chef and I take myself off to a cybernet cafe. I try to upload the travel blog but for the third time it rejects my post. Oh well, I set up another blog. It takes a bit of getting used to but I crack it. Well 75% of it. By the time I finish the internet connection folds so it looks like another day at the cybernet tomorrow to make contact with home, friends and other travellers.

There is a local musician at the Maison when I return and I shower, have a beer and write to the sound of the kora and Malian music. This is the first tour party to stay at the Maison for this season and the temperature in the kitchen is high, high, high but they succeed in producing a great meal. AND NO FRITES! I'm not against frites. I am more than partial to a chip buttie but they seem to be the standard accompanyment to every meal in West Africa. Even more important are the delicious vegetables. My five a day has gone to pot recently. I wolf them down. I sleep well.

Wednesday 12th November

I spend a quiet day relaxing, cybernetting (successfully), getting the hang of the new blog, wandering around town and then back to the oasis of Maison des Arts for a planning session for the rest of my journey, reading and chilling. Kay always seems to have a cup of Earl Grey on the go which I appreciate.

A local band performs for the French tour group. I don't think I'll be seeing them at the Sage.

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