Leaving Bamako

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We have had an amzing past couple of days. Thanks to Jeremy and Sega, we have had a fantastic journey to Sega's village 3 hours NW of Bamako. Yesterday morning we loaded up our gear into a minibus, drums, back backs etcs and went off for an adventure...which started with drumming the whole way there! As we passed villages and roadside communities, we drummed and danced and sang the whole way, invoking waves, smiles and dances! We bought muffins, peanuts, yogurt, and drinks from folks along the road, tried not to step on the chickens that we were bringing, nestled on the floors, and watched the landscape of mali unfold. I learned how charcoal is made and papayas ripen from my friend Fadou, cushioned little Abdulayi as he slept, and observed termite mounds and bricks drying from my seat (manditory earplugs for the drumming). We arrived a bit tired but excited, in a small mud hut villiage, to the excitement of the villagers and thier prolific and smiling children.

We made ourselves at home, due to the generosity of our hosts, in the drumming master's compound. We welcomed, had yams and millet and chicken meals, rested in mud huts, listened to donkeys and goats bleat. After a rest we were walked through the villiage to another compound where we met with folks while enjoying watered down wine and stringed instruments, meeting folks left and right. Finally we were shown, drums in hand, to a massive and ancient fig tree, under which we and the villagers drummed and danced and drummed and danced some more as the sun went down. What fun! Being wrapped in a scarf denotes the love and support of the community, beckoning you to dance. What love, what embrace! The children accompanied us back to camp, jumping and shouting at the exciting flash of the camera, aching to see themselves in the small screen, smiling and playing with us.

After a dinner of rice and veggies in communal bowls (huts dark, air cooling) we were treated to kora-like music played by costumed griots just outside the compound. Thier theatrics and voices praised us and played with us, like the flames from the small fires. Grown men brandished branches as switches, keeping the center of the circle free of maurading children for dancers. Swatting the playful little folks as they tried to take over the space. The stars came out like glitter in the night sky, brighter than city lights. I tried to explain to the children that in the US of A we wish upon the first star of the night but I think that the meaning was lost in how magnificant and bright the stars are every single night if you grow up out in the middle of nowhere/somewhere on the sahel!

We slept, nestled with Jack, Sharon, and Fadou, in our hut, cuddling up against the chill, occasionally awoken by bleeting goats and donkeys (dinosaurs?) and finally by the roosters call (not just wake up, but for hours!). In the morning I learned about calabashes, carved as shakers, bowls or spoons, was asked to photograph elders, and minions of children, collected okra seeds, and watched the village come to life.

We drove back to Bamako (drumming of course, especially at police check points because it distracts them), arriving for lunch, ah, Tewa's awesome cooking! After an afternoon at the market, we've settled into an evening of drumming, astrological talk, awesome peas, onions, fries, and salad, and a nice bottle of rum straight from Australia.

Tomorrow, we leave the warm arms of our home here for the northlands. We will travel to the town of Djenne for its famous market day, then to Mopti where we rendezvous with other friends, then head to Timbouctou for the festival. We've heard a mirage of fantastic and irritating things about the festival, but hope for the best. We are stocked with supplies, including new fresh kola nuts, sunscreen, protection for our back packs on top of the truck, and clothes for the lightly packed Jaco-o-bat. We'll see how well we are able to keep in touch upon the road or will write when we are back here on Jan 14th-ish. I have every intention to write a "what we've learned about bamako" blog at some point too.

Much love to all, in your lives and endeavours.

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Comments

[Sheila]

love you
Kevin and Kara: What a fantastic trip. I am really enjoying reading about your adventures. You must write more when you get home. I bet you could write pages and pages about each day - even each hour. Stay safe and continue to enjoy. Love you. Sheila