I decide that, having done nothing of interest so far in Malawi, I should hit Mt Mulanje on my way out to Mozambique. Mulange isn't a major mountaineering challenge (its highest point is about 3,000m) but its appeal lies in that it's more a massif than a mountain so there are opportunities for merely hiking among its dozen or so peaks as well as climbing them. I'd first heard of Mulanje soon after entering Malawi, when a newspaper article had mentioned the disappearance of a French-Brazilian hiker in the massif. The article had contained an interview with a local headman, who stated that the man's body would never be found because the "spirits" had taken it. To my other witchcraft stories (i.e. the woman giving birth to a stone and the teenage girl being thrown out
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